cranbiz

110V or 220V? Pictures of the inside of the pack and of the wiring diagram in the inside cover along with the equipment area would help a lot.

No issues with leaving the stereo unplugged. I can't read the output voltage on the power supply so I really can't guess what else it may supply power to.

Have you checked the flow switch? If it isn't working correctly, you will get an OH indication.

Many low end tubs use the heat from the pumps to heat the water, so yes, it is a thing.

Honestly, I would replace those 2 relays and the jumper wire. The one closest to the burned end of the wire got hot. I suspect if you replace those relay's and the wire you will be good to go.

I see you have a second thread on this and said there is a burnt wire/trace. Go to that one about repairing the board.

If it's a relay, relays can be sourced from Amazon and replaced. If you can't solder, you should be able to find an electronics guy that can. I would replace them all while it's being done. New relays will refresh the board and in the overall scheme of things, are not expensive. If it's a trace on the board, that can be repaired with a piece of wire, simply jump between solid terminals that bridge the break.

Did you get 240V between the 2 heater terminals? I'll guess that you will but check anyways. If that is good, disconnect the power and then disconnect the heater from the board. Then check the element with an ohmmeter. You should see anywhere from 10-18 ohms on it. If you don't then you need a new element. I suspect your element is open.

The flow switch should be an off/on switch but sometimes they will get intermittent or crap in them which prevents the 0 ohm reading. For the temp/limit sensors, they should read in the 10's of K range and if you have multiple sensors they should be close to each other in their readings.

It could be the sensors or it could be the flow switch/sensor. I would test the sensors with an ohm meter first before just swapping out sensors.

First, I doubt your advice will be used by the OP, who was looking at hot tubs 6 years ago. Then we get into MasterSpa, their business practices and quality. MasterSpa makes an OK spa. It isn't a top tier spa. There is not anything outstanding about them. Hot Springs, Sundance, Artesian, Bullfrog, Marquis and Jacuzzi are far better tubs. The biggest issue with MasterSpa is that they use the travelling roadshow to sell tubs and then it's just about impossible to get warranty service (dealer are the ones to honor the warranty and the roadshow dealer really could care less about you once you fork over your cash). Do you work for a MasterSpa dealer? Sure sounds like it.

I would use the yellow simply because the Taylor kits use yellow and I trust the Taylor kits over others. In reality, as long as all give the same numbers then both should be reliable and you can use whichever kit you wish. Have you tested each with the same water sample? Same water, same results, then use whatever color costs less.

The T is glued in. A clamp can't properly secure that connection as the T is hard plastic over the soft flexible tubing. If the tubing was over the T, a clamp would work.

Please start a new thread and post pictures of the transformer, control pack and the wiring diagram. Post the voltages you got from black-white, white-red, red-black and then blue-blue and yellow-yellow. The yellow-blue combination is not a valid combination for testing.

You are already taking the first step, see it running. Make sure ALL functions work. Examine under it thoroughly for any signs of leaks. Inspect the frame for rot, etc. Has it a good cover? I would pop the cover on the electronics and look for any signs of a relay overheat. Dark spots on the board, etc.

You might have a bad solder joint. Wouldn't hurt to check them and reflow them. The joint should be bright silver. If it's dull or hazy, reflow it.

This sounds like a loose connection at either the terminal strip on the board, at the breaker panel or the disconnect. Start at the panel, tighten the connections on the breaker and test the voltage, then move on to the disconnect and repeat, etc. When you say switch plug locations, I'm assuming you are doing this in the spa pack. Which one did you move it to? Post up pictures of the spa pack and the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover.

Please post up pictures of your control board and the wiring diagram found on the inside of the spa pack cover. Also the inside of the disconnect/breaker panel. I suspect you have a bad relay or two. Are you/significant other comfortable with doing electronic testing or if not, do you have a friend who is? There are things you can test with a multimeter such as the voltage going to the heater or ohming out the heater element to see if it's good.

With good insulation and a good cover, the circulation pump doesn't run all that much once the tub is up to temperature. I wouldn't be worried about this at all.

I evaluated countless tubs when I was looking for a tub. Now, I had a size limitation due to the location it was going into so I could not buy a "standard" size 96"x96" tub. This did limit the brands that I hat to buy from. My tub says it will seat 6. It also has a recliner seat. It does seat 6 if all of you are very friendly and you use the cool down seat. It will sit 4 with everyone being a bit less friendly and 3 are really comfortable. My first tub was a non recliner seat tub. Due to age and the infirmities that come with age, we did opt for the recliner seat. To get one that we didn't think we would float out of required further testing and eliminated several tubs. I ended up with an Artesian Island series rectangular tub that met the physical size requirements and delivered the best bang for the buck, from a dealer that had quality reviews for both sales and service. Because I bought during covid, we were unable to wet test anything but dry testing did provide at least comfort assessments. I found that if the lounge was inclined more severely it was uncomfortable and I felt there was a greater possibility of floating out. A more upright lounge seat was more comfortable for us and we do stay put in the lounger when using the tub. This won't work for all though (different body types perform differently) and that's why you really need to wet test a lounger tub. In reality, you need to visit multiple dealers and sit in a lot of tubs. Narrow your search down based on the dry seating and arrange a wet test. The dealer is as important as the tub. The dealer is your warranty source and you want one that is responsive and preferably has in house service techs. Ask for referrals from the dealer and follow up with them. If your dealer's service area fits with where you live, distance would not concern me. My dealer is about 125 miles away but they service my area. @castletonia and @Gebo have given you good advice. Hopefully, I have as well. Another brand that seems to be up and coming in the US is Wellis. They are a European manufacturer that has established US dealers and stock. I would take a look at those and use the same criteria as you should for the list that Castletonia gave you. Good luck and report back with what you decide on.

It does take a while to heat a tub. Like @Cusser It takes mine 6-8 hours to heat to 102F (I'm on well water and it's about 60F). Once to temp, it only runs the circulation pump for a short time to maintain set temp. If you don't have a circulation pump, then pump 1 will need to run constantly to get to temp and occasionally to maintain temp. Do you have a good cover? That i a huge actor in maintaining set temp.

You want a tub that is not full foam then. Perimeter insulated tubs like an Artic, Hydropool, Thermospa or PDC are some of the better brands. Personally, I prefer a full foam tub for several reasons. A full foam tub tends to support the plumbing which aids in longevity and they are usually more energy efficient.

If you are just removing them forever, I would find some plastic or nylon sheets and cut them to size. Use stainless steel hardware and stat-o-seal washers to bolt them on and a good marine grade silicone to seal the patch panel to the tub. If replacing them, see what @CanadianSpaTech posted above.

Can you post up the wiring diagram of both the old and the new boards? A picture of the new board would also be extremely helpful. Do you have a picture of the old board installed? This way we can see how the old board was wired.

The Cover Guy. You tell them your dimensions and you can pick your quality, energy efficiency and materials. One your dimensions runs around $500 more or less depending on options chosen and how fast you want it.