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itgogitrev

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Everything posted by itgogitrev

  1. Sorry for the delay, attached are the pics of the boards and wiring diagram PDFs from the upgraded board PNs. I did not include a pic of the original wiring diagram on the inside of the lid; the boards are different enough to where the original diagram is obsolete. 77119-New-Heater-Relay-Board-Instructions.pdf Instructions_Wiring_IQ2020_System-77271_Board-77087.pdf
  2. Yes, I have a multimeter. I have not replaced the sensors, so that's a good thing to consider. I'll check them out. - Filter is out. I will get pics of the boards, diagrams and eq. area this weekend - I pulled the breakers out of the box and inspected them. All connections are tight. - The 30A breaker doesn't trip when the spa is in use. When the spa display starts flashing READY, I'll switch the breakers to cut the power and that's when the 30A will need 2-3 tries to get it to stay in the ON position. During the 18 months we've lived at this house, neither the 30A or 20A has ever tripped on their own accord. Thank you both for the assistance and I'll report back when I have some more data!
  3. I'd be happy with any advice; even if it doesn't work, I'm willing to try.
  4. Current issue is a 2003 Tiger River Bengal M that has no heat. Below are the symptoms and repair history associated with it: - Panel will show the flashing READY with 2-3 minutes after resetting the breakers in the panel. Circ pump, ozonator and jet pump continue to function as normal. - When setting 30A breaker in panel to ON position, it will sometimes drop to the tripped position 1-2 times before staying in ON position - Heater relay board was replaced in April 2020 with P/N 77119 (newer 2 relay design). Main control board was replaced in June 2021 with P/N 77087. - Heater assembly is original to the hot tub (Watkins twin tube No-Fault)... so it's nearly old enough to vote. - Heater HAS WORKED since the last board was replaced in June 2021 - Spa is wired for 230V, 30A for heater/20A for jet pump Although the boards are relatively new and the heater is old, I still would like to go through the proper diagnostics to verify the heater has failed. Where is the best place to start? Thanks in advance for any advice you have!
  5. Heater works fine. I replaced the endcap a few days ago due to a crack between the bridge in between the 2 tubes (huge leak, most likely due to freezing while I had the board out to replace the relays). I took it to 100° to see if it'd reach it and it did so with no problems. Circ pump works as well. Ozonator works... well, it works as well as a 17 year old can. A new one is currently in route. No errors on the control panel. POWER and READY indicators are lit and steady (no flashing). It seems that everything functions properly except the jet pump. I'll run to the store, grab some spade terminal splitters, and open everything back up to check voltage/resistance. I do have JET PUMP 2 spade connections and I'll test them as well once it stops raining and I can dig into it.
  6. Sorry for the delay... combination of quarantining and heater leaks kept me from looking at this sooner. Here's what I'm getting at the moment (pics attached): 1.) Testing heater (not 100% related, but worth noting)= 235-238V 2.) Jet Pump, tested black & white with jets turned on (D17 diode lit) = 0V 3.) Jet Pump, tested black & green with jets turned on (D17 diode lit) = 120V Two questions stem from this... a.) Does a lit D17 diode indicate that something has tripped? b.) How can I bypass the board and test the pump without removing it from the hot tub? Temps here are between 15°-30° so I have to keep water in the tub to prevent anything else from freezing.
  7. Well, I just got the new relays installed on the board and still no action from the jet pump. Right back to where I started. Any suggestions on any other diagnostics before I call a repair guy?
  8. I just popped the board back in this afternoon. Water is at least warm and moving
  9. Sorry, spade connectors. That’s where I’m getting my 4-5V. Waiting on relays to arrive at the moment. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get the board back on until this morning which let the check valve from the ozonator freeze open overnight. So now I’m thawing out a bunch of ice and drying out the ozonator as well.
  10. I've ordered new relays and waiting for them to come in. With power across all flag terminals looking good, I can't imagine it'd be anything else except the relays. I'll post the results once they come in and I get everything back together.
  11. Long-time lurker here; I've found many posts here pretty helpful in diagnosing/repairing previous issues. Current issue is a 2003 Tiger River Bengal M that has a non-op jetpump. I get a "jets icon" whenever I turn on the jets or run a clean cycle as well as a red light on D17 on the board. Unfortunately, jet pump (WaveMaster 7000) doesn't respond... not even a hum, so I'm ruling out a bad cap. Motor spins freely too when turned with a wrench. All other items connected to the board work just fine and have 120V across the terminals. I checked voltage across the flag terminals on the jet pump with it turned on and I get between 4.2-5.1V. Is it possible that a relay has gone out? I looked around the board for burn marks or other charred remnants and everything looks clean. The board is from 2003, so I'm certain it's getting ready to retire. I just replaced the heater control board last year after one of the relays burned a huge hole in the board. Any ideas on what resistance I should be seeing on the relays? I'm getting ready to run out and get some alligator clips to test them. Thanks in advance for any advice you have!
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