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Everything posted by Fingerstank

  1. I am assuming he has figured it out, considering the original post was made a year ago?
  2. So finally decided to move our tub and get back some of the deck we had been missing for 4 years now. Had to remove a pile of trees and excavate down into the lawn 6" . After we excavated and levelled the area we used a power tamper on the soil and added 2" of 3/4 crush then power tampered that down as well to get a nice solid base for the frame. Frame is 4"x 4" X 10' and joists are 2" x 4" 12" on centre. Just thought I would explain how we did this to help other folks out with installing a hot tub on gravel. Will add more pics once it's fully completed and finished, but here is the pics where the tub was and where it is now and the process Still need to do a few landscaping finishes and move the gazebo over into place
  3. I have used bleach diluted in water for this before with a cloth or sponge. Worked out fine for me . Obviously YMMV
  4. With the Gazebo I don't have much worry in regards to the water running under the base. But of course that may change if we decide to remove the Gazebo entirely. Making the actual gravel pad a little over a foot on either side of the tub. So hopefully whatever water is draining our getting to it will drain into the gravel along side of the tub. Can't imagine to much run off from there but hey who knows The only dilemma I can see at the moment is the concrete patio is roughly 6" thick and with the slope away from the deck area I am about 4" below the deck at the back of the tub where the placement will be. Even if I can get at least 2' into the ground and tamp it down to compact it with the 2" of 3/4 crush I should be able to manage the remaining frame onto that and retain the remaining grave and pea stone to stay still. In theory it should work but I guess we will find out. Hoping to keep the nose of the tub on the concrete. Any thoughts on that support? And allow the remaining part of the tub to sit on the gravel inside the frame, basically sitting on the gravel. If you would suggest keeping the tub completely on the gravel and not being supported by part of the concrete deck, let me know your thoughts. Can always lower the tub from the face of the deck and just make sure it's back enough to allow the front panel to be removed. Tub is 94" x 94" Actual gravel pad will be 120" x 120" So significantly wider. Thanks Steve
  5. @CanadianSpaTech Good information. Have a few questions myself So I have a Master Spa 8.25 It's been sitting on my Deck which is concrete with a Gazebo. What I would like to do is regain that part of my deck back and install the tub to the side of the deck. Are 4x4 P.T. ok for this? I always thought you would need 6x6 just for the weight? Or is it because they suggest going down 6" into the earth to get a much more solid base and top up 4" of 3/4 crush and 2" pea stone. But if I go that deep isn't the 4x4 laying under all this? Or would you suggest laying 2" of stone then lay the form on top and then top off with the remaining stone and pea gravel Tub and Gazebo is 9' 6" x 9' x 6" Was originally planning on a 10' x 12' just the extra with to be able to close and open the lid while still staying on the gravel. But thinking more along 10 x 10 better esthetics if we ever decide to get rid of the Gazebo. At the cost of lumber here in Ontario the difference between 4x4 and 6x6 is close to $30 a piece now. For our American friends yes the wood prices here have become insane 4" x 4" x10' $25 6'x6' x 10' are close to $60 Picture of tub position now and where we would like to place it Cheers Steve
  6. Yes I get it Bleach is Bleach. Thanks @waterbear
  7. I do realize this post hasn't been active for sometime but here is my numbers. Just wondering if I am still ok with my T.A. being low? Master Spa 8.25 400 Gallons Using the Master Spa Eco Pur Charge Tested with a Taylor Kit K-2006 PH 7.4 T.A. 60 C.H. 100 F.C 4.5 C.C. .5 CYA Between 30 AND 40 Still could see the little block dot at 30 and just slightly noticeable at 40 Meanwhile I went and double checked with a local tub store. There numbers were a little off on the Calcium Hardness they were showing it to be 180 p.p.m. I understand there is a number of other factors involved, but just inquiring if it's ok to start the Dichlor and Bleach method with these numbers or should I adjust my T.A. and P.H levels. @waterbear @chem geek @Nitro
  8. Thanks for the input. Think I will just grab some pool chlorine. But with that being said yes it's much cheaper way to go but it's also in a higher volume container than I would probably go thru in a year. I have read that chlorine can weaken over time, not sure how that is possible but hey I am not a chemist Still working on managing the Dichlor and Bleach method
  9. Quick question @waterbear I have a household bleach here in Canada called Old Dutch. According to the MDS it looks like this product may fall below the 3% Bleach levels Sodium Hypochlorite WT% 1.0-3.0 Sodium Hydroxide WT.% <.05 From what I can tell this may between 1% to 3% Bleach Would I be reading this correctly? Seems fairly weak At this level would you suggest perhaps 2tbs to get the 2ppm FC
  10. I think you might be on to something.. Possibly put PH Down in as a shock then realized it and then added Dichlor. But then again who knows. Not one of them wants to admit any possible wrong doing . Fear of the wrath of Dad lol.
  11. Thanks everyone for their input. Took the advice and just purged and drained the tub. Back up and running. Just working on getting the PH and Alkalinity in line. Been using @waterbear suggested way. Gotta say it actually works quite easy and spot on . Thanks all
  12. Hi everyone. Was gone for about 2 weeks and left the kids in charge of the Tub. Before I left the water was perfectly balanced. Came home last night and went and got my water tested at two different places today. Alkalinity dropped to under 18ppm at one test sight and 70 p.p.m. at another. Was originally at 130 before I left Ph seems relatively in line with each other 6.4 and 6.7 respective of each other. Was at around 7.6 when I left. The concerning thing is they both tell me the Stabilizer levels are above 150 ppm but under 165 ppm. 1) How did my Stabilizer levels raise so high? It was well within range prior to leaving.. Should I just over shock it to raise the Chlorine high enough to break the lock which I am assuming is what's going on or drain a fair amount of water and refill. The water itself is under 2 months old that's what" confusing me with thigh Stabilizer levels. Thanks in Advance
  13. I would suggest highly not putting sand in your hot tub. Even with a tight fit and enclosed in a bag, if that were to pop open accidentally it's gonna be a hell of a mess. Just my 2 cents
  14. Are you testing properly? I couldn't imagine the Taylor Kit being that far off from the truth, unless you are not testing proper.
  15. Don't forget to Nuke the tub.. Get your Fc up there above 10 ppm minimum. Before draining your tub. As @CanadianSpaTech suggested try and get as much of the water out of the tub. If you have a shop vac use it. Either reverse the nozzle and blow out the lines or suck it out I usually use the shop vac and have it suck out each individual jet as well as the filter cabinet. I make sure there is nothing left in the plumbing
  16. I am guessing from the pictures on your test strip bottle you meant to originally type out TA @80ppm Just a guess though
  17. Do you have a filtration timer on your spa? You could just bump the filtration up too a 24 hr period. Let it run until your under 10 ppm of Free Chlorine as @waterbear suggested. Remember after getting that FC up that high on you Nuking the Tub keep your lid open not just half the lid but open the whole lid. I have seen people shock with a partial lid open still can damage your cover even if it's only for a few minutes like that ( Obviously after several times )
  18. It's quite possible like you had mentioned in an earlier post, perhaps the original tub owner never really took care of it? Could be the reason he sold it as well. Water chemistry isn't my forte either can be frustrating It may be very well it's finally getting a long awaited purge and stuff is still becoming detached from the plumbing and heating elements. Perhaps just super chlorinate it. Then do a complete refill and use it for a while and do it all again after you have used for a while. Thinking as long as you are keeping up with the FC levels you should be ok. But I am sure others may have better advice. Just thinking you are getting frustrated and not really enjoying your tub
  19. That just means it can be used in a High Efficiency washing machine eg: Front End Load Washer Just an FYI
  20. Okay thanks for the input. So it's okay to use the EcoPur system either way if I do decide to switch into the Dichlor and Bleach Method. I will try it out on the next water change or I will just check out my water chemistry over the weekend and see if I can go that way now. Thanks again
  21. Here is the MfG Website https://acc-spas.com/ or at least I believe it is. Perhaps browse threw it you may find your manual for the specific control system
  22. Spa Will Not Hold Set Temperature – Make sure you have the heating mode set properly. Many Cal Spas have 3 modes. Change these settings by pressing TEMP followed by LIGHT buttons. All 3 modes will rotate. ST: Standard – Spa will heat to set temperature, and maintain when heat is needed. This is the default setting. EC: Economy – Spa will heat ONLY during filtration settings. It will heat to the set temperature and the spa may cool down until the next filtration cycle. Heating will resume again in 12 hours. SL: Sleep – Similar to EC mode, the spa will only heat during the filtration cycles of the spa. Sleep mode will only allow the spa to heat within 20 degrees of the set temperature. There are 3 modes in a Cal Spa. (St) Standard, (Ec) Economy and (Sl) Sleep You want it in Standard mode, so press the temp button and the light button within 3 seconds of one another and it will sequence to the next mode, repeat till you are in Standard mode. In Ec it will only heat in filter cycle In Sleep mode nothing works so do not use that. That mode is for cleaning and replacing filters Hoping this helps you out
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