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Everything posted by Fingerstank

  1. Yes I get it Bleach is Bleach. Thanks @waterbear
  2. I do realize this post hasn't been active for sometime but here is my numbers. Just wondering if I am still ok with my T.A. being low? Master Spa 8.25 400 Gallons Using the Master Spa Eco Pur Charge Tested with a Taylor Kit K-2006 PH 7.4 T.A. 60 C.H. 100 F.C 4.5 C.C. .5 CYA Between 30 AND 40 Still could see the little block dot at 30 and just slightly noticeable at 40 Meanwhile I went and double checked with a local tub store. There numbers were a little off on the Calcium Hardness they were showing it to be 180 p.p.m. I unders
  3. Thanks for the input. Think I will just grab some pool chlorine. But with that being said yes it's much cheaper way to go but it's also in a higher volume container than I would probably go thru in a year. I have read that chlorine can weaken over time, not sure how that is possible but hey I am not a chemist Still working on managing the Dichlor and Bleach method
  4. Quick question @waterbear I have a household bleach here in Canada called Old Dutch. According to the MDS it looks like this product may fall below the 3% Bleach levels Sodium Hypochlorite WT% 1.0-3.0 Sodium Hydroxide WT.% <.05 From what I can tell this may between 1% to 3% Bleach Would I be reading this correctly? Seems fairly weak At this level would you suggest perhaps 2tbs to get the 2ppm FC
  5. I think you might be on to something.. Possibly put PH Down in as a shock then realized it and then added Dichlor. But then again who knows. Not one of them wants to admit any possible wrong doing . Fear of the wrath of Dad lol.
  6. Thanks everyone for their input. Took the advice and just purged and drained the tub. Back up and running. Just working on getting the PH and Alkalinity in line. Been using @waterbear suggested way. Gotta say it actually works quite easy and spot on . Thanks all
  7. Hi everyone. Was gone for about 2 weeks and left the kids in charge of the Tub. Before I left the water was perfectly balanced. Came home last night and went and got my water tested at two different places today. Alkalinity dropped to under 18ppm at one test sight and 70 p.p.m. at another. Was originally at 130 before I left Ph seems relatively in line with each other 6.4 and 6.7 respective of each other. Was at around 7.6 when I left. The concerning thing is they both tell me the Stabilizer levels are above 150 ppm but under 165 ppm. 1)
  8. I would suggest highly not putting sand in your hot tub. Even with a tight fit and enclosed in a bag, if that were to pop open accidentally it's gonna be a hell of a mess. Just my 2 cents
  9. Are you testing properly? I couldn't imagine the Taylor Kit being that far off from the truth, unless you are not testing proper.
  10. Don't forget to Nuke the tub.. Get your Fc up there above 10 ppm minimum. Before draining your tub. As @CanadianSpaTech suggested try and get as much of the water out of the tub. If you have a shop vac use it. Either reverse the nozzle and blow out the lines or suck it out I usually use the shop vac and have it suck out each individual jet as well as the filter cabinet. I make sure there is nothing left in the plumbing
  11. I am guessing from the pictures on your test strip bottle you meant to originally type out TA @80ppm Just a guess though
  12. Do you have a filtration timer on your spa? You could just bump the filtration up too a 24 hr period. Let it run until your under 10 ppm of Free Chlorine as @waterbear suggested. Remember after getting that FC up that high on you Nuking the Tub keep your lid open not just half the lid but open the whole lid. I have seen people shock with a partial lid open still can damage your cover even if it's only for a few minutes like that ( Obviously after several times )
  13. It's quite possible like you had mentioned in an earlier post, perhaps the original tub owner never really took care of it? Could be the reason he sold it as well. Water chemistry isn't my forte either can be frustrating It may be very well it's finally getting a long awaited purge and stuff is still becoming detached from the plumbing and heating elements. Perhaps just super chlorinate it. Then do a complete refill and use it for a while and do it all again after you have used for a while. Thinking as long as you are keeping up with the FC levels you should be ok.
  14. That just means it can be used in a High Efficiency washing machine eg: Front End Load Washer Just an FYI
  15. Okay thanks for the input. So it's okay to use the EcoPur system either way if I do decide to switch into the Dichlor and Bleach Method. I will try it out on the next water change or I will just check out my water chemistry over the weekend and see if I can go that way now. Thanks again
  16. Here is the MfG Website https://acc-spas.com/ or at least I believe it is. Perhaps browse threw it you may find your manual for the specific control system
  17. Spa Will Not Hold Set Temperature – Make sure you have the heating mode set properly. Many Cal Spas have 3 modes. Change these settings by pressing TEMP followed by LIGHT buttons. All 3 modes will rotate. ST: Standard – Spa will heat to set temperature, and maintain when heat is needed. This is the default setting. EC: Economy – Spa will heat ONLY during filtration settings. It will heat to the set temperature and the spa may cool down until the next filtration cycle. Heating will resume again in 12 hours. SL: Sleep – Similar to EC mode, the spa will only heat d
  18. Thanks for the reply @RDspaguy. I do realize the Eco pur charge doesn't replace the chemical sanitizer. I have however noticed it never has really reduced the demand on the chlorine as it's apparently possible according the MFG but obviously that may not be attenable in real world scenarios as every user has there own mileage So I guess what you are saying in a nutshell is that it doesn't matter if it's in the system or not while using Nitro's method? Just thinking of cost between the Eco Pur Cartridge cost and then again for the outer filter as opposed to just needing to purchas
  19. Hello all. New to the forum and found some really sound advice. I however do have a question in regards to Nitro's Approach to water Maintenance. If perhaps I should post the question there please excuse my ignorance The Question is having the Master Spa EcoPur Charge would it be advisable to not having this in the filter system if I choose to go with the Dichlor/ Bleach method or will matter? Just wondering if their is a benefit with it in the filter system with this method or just wasting time and money with this being used at the same time. Tub is alrea
  20. Here is a link regarding the Covana from 1 member https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47378-covana-oasis-cover-is-the-quality-good/
  21. Water Test Kit =Taylor Technologies k2006 or k2006c The difference in the two are the volume of reagents you get in the kit. But I am sure others may add more to your question.
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