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Edwardscizzorhands

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  1. Thanks for the advise. The softened water seems to be pretty manageable. I think I was lacking a good dose of shock before. The well water was really acting weird using the Taylor K2005 tests. It was like the solution was thickening or separating while mixing for the alkinlinity test. I was beating it down from 180. I agree the cheap digital ph testers aren’t something to rely on so for confirmation I use the Taylor test. If I decide to try well water again and have issues, I’ll get all the numbers out for you. There’s a lot of good information out here from you guys. Thanks again for your thoughts!
  2. Update...I’m switching back to soft water. Well water is beyond my pay grade
  3. I’ve been running softened water in my hot tub without much trouble using bromine. Today I did a fresh fill but went with about 75% straight well water and the rest softened water. Thought it might help with some cloudiness I see with a flashlight beam into the water at night. Anyway in the past my good ALK level seems to be around 40. I brought the water back to that level. Today I was using a digital ph tester to check and aireate the ph and Taylor test for the ALK. Now my ALK shows 40 using the Taylor test. Should be ok. Thought I’d verify my PH using the Taylor test. The Taylor test shows it 7.5. But within seconds right before my eyes it fades out to 7.0. I don’t get what’s going on. Calcium is at 190. Is well water jacking up my test? It’s been reliable until now. Hope this makes sense. When the well water was tested a while back, I was told the metals weren’t abnormally high but can’t remember the exact numbers. Any ideas would help. Thanks!
  4. I’m using the Taylor K-2005 kit. I’ve noticed when I’m at the lower end of the bromine scale, 2-4 ppm after the solution sits a minute or two in the testing vial the level rises to around 10ppm. I’m assuming I should note the early reading and disregard the higher reading that shows over time. Is that how bromine normally reacts? Thanks so much!
  5. Maybe I’ll use it to determine my oil changes heh
  6. Was starting to stress fighting my hot tub water issues. Mainly PH rise. The PH down, aerate technique to beat down the TA really saved the day! Used a little 20 mule team borax and got the PH at 7.6 I haven’t had to adjust anything for 3 days and counting. A new record for me. The water looks good, feels good, doesn’t smell. I think it’s fixed! Only thing is my TDS is getting up there at about 1200 ppm from all the mistakes I was making in the beginning. I hope I can get it right again after I dump the water before long. I’m not so trusting of asking the pool stores for help either. I already have a shelf full of chemicals. I don’t need anymore. I got a Taylor test kit. Wow. The test strips should be illegal. Sooo misleading and vague! I wanted to iron this out myself. Reading thru a lot of theses conversations I’ve picked up a lot without having to poke anyone personally. So, there’s a lot of smart, experienced people here I’d like to say thanks so much for sharing your tips and tricks! Ed.
  7. RDspaguy, thanks for the note. I have a digital ph meter. Says I’m at 7.59. It’s it not a plaster hot tub. Fiberglass or whatever they use now. Everything I see says calcium has to be up. Maybe I’m just overthinking it. I’ll look for a better testing process. Thanks!
  8. New question. I’m about a year into my hot tub chemistry experience. Most of the time when trying to bring up my calcium levels I’m getting excess grit in the bottom. Seems like I add too much but the test strips still say it’s low. I’ve switched brands of test strips. Used liquid calcium, the granular stuff too. Seems like the only time my calcium is close to right, I’m on my way to plugging the filter. The other chemicals seem to be in spec. Any ideas of what’s going on here? Thanks!
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