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About turbulentwaters

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    water chemistry, automation

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  1. Hope you all had some success with the leakstop at this point. I called Marlig and they recommended leaving the tub drained for a couple weeks (!) to allow curing. Makes sense since the slicates (listed on MSDS) would need to dehydrate to form hard seals and I have a foam-filled tub where air can't get to. I'm just not that patient though and after a 2-day hold, I refilled immediately after draining. Seemed to stop the leak for the first week, but it's now seeping again. Maybe next time in the heat of summer I will blow out the pipes with a shop vac, maybe even leave the air blow running
  2. Still no real determination of the cause, but I did notice this odor again starting a few days after my refill three weeks ago. I did start up using dichlor again but just for a couple days and as I ramped up doses after bathing, I noticed that odor come back. I changed over to bleach and the smell has pretty much gone away.
  3. Yeah, agreed. Honestly, I see no reason to not allow low speed pumps to continue to run. Check this thread above for the method (similar to Marlig's own recommendation if not draining).
  4. On their website (http://www.fixaleak.com/hot-tubs-spas): "Recirculate continuously for 6-8 hours then shut system off...Allow 48 hours before resuming operation". Just turn off circuit breaker. I also already turned off the heater as a precaution, but I'm not sure if that is an issue. I'm assuming that this hold time allows some curing to take place, although their talk about foam-insulated tubs being waterlogged and inhibiting curing contradicts the usefulness of that. Maybe the curing happens when exposed to air on the outside of the leak (water evaporates from drips and the silicate salts
  5. Just got back from the tub after forgetting to restart the jets for about an hour and I did actually now see a lot of the product had fallen out as a gel-like sediment, so that's good to know. Stirred up easily by just the jets. @mscdman, thanks for sharing. I did read in their instructions that I should let the tub sit for a while to allow curing upon draining (mostly pertaining to waterlogged foam-insulated tubs I interpreted), on top of the 48h hold after application. I really don't want to wait a couple weeks though as I've become addicted to bathing. I may try using the shop vac in r
  6. Hah! Very good. I'm doing the same procedure today prior to a water change. I had imagined this stuff as dense blue globs that would quickly settle out, but it seems this stuff (light-straw colored thick liquid) just dispersed immediately in the water stream. Came back after the pumps stopped (20 min) and the water is just a hint cloudy and can't see anything falling out on the floor or skimmer bottom. Is this normal? I'm planning on draining in ~2 days, but I was assuming it would also be easy to just vacuum off the bottom (winter fix without draining). No complaints though if that's how
  7. That "olive" odor I described could also be thought of as canned hearts of palm, for sure. I didn't say earlier, but this happened twice. I had just done an Ahhsome purge and refill, followed by a math mistake that led to ~25 ppm bromine at startup. Five of us just all plunged in to reduce the bromine quickly and then used it a few days in a row. Bromine was still a bit high though at 10 ppm. The "odor" appeared a couple days later which led me to believe that I had some sort of disinfectant byproduct issue (maybe even some burned off plastic monomers from spa or cover even) and I drained/refi
  8. I've been curious for years now about what I believe to be a once available option or planned add-on to the Sundance spa systems. I have a 99 Sundance optima, and the LCD display has available a "pH" and "ORP" indicator, presumably meaning that there could be pH and ORP probes added to the plumbing at a later date and hooked up for ultimate convenience. I've searched around but can't find any info on it. Interestingly, my spa has a new "sentry 850" motherboard installed in 2016 (but with original touchpanel/LCD), and it looks like the "pH/ORP" indicator is lit up by the same bit that indicates
  9. This is an old post, but this SpaGuard question is relevant still. I was given some SpaGuard Enhanced Shock (long story) and I wanted to figure out if I should use it. First glance I was thinking yeah I can use this as a source of dichlor, but the "other" ingredients accounted for ~50%. The label states that it is a shock, not for direct use of sanitizer. Found the SDS and there is in addition to dichor 10–30% sodium persulfate, ~10% aluminium sulfate (flocculant), ~10% "trade secret boron salt" (probably adjusted boric acid). Quite the cocktail and yeah it probably should not be used for dail
  10. I just refilled my tub a week ago and I am having a strange odor that is appearing now that I've never experienced before. When I open the lid and turn on the jets, I sense a strange olive-like/corn-like offensive smell that slowly dissipates but is definitely coming from the water as the jets bubble it out. There's also almost an acidic tinge as well. Now, you may be thinking "put some sanitizer in there, quick!", but I have been maintaining total bromine between 1–6 since startup. My main concerns are that I am either dissolving plastic from the cover or tub somehow or that I'm creating nast
  11. I also am starting to suspect a biofilm issue in my tub with what seems to be excessive sanitizer consumption without bathing, but I want to clarify this comment. Does ozone also destroy FC in a short timespan? Same for bromine? I'm assuming this is resulting in inactive chlorites/chorates and bromites/bromates but I thought that would be a slower process.
  12. Yeah, I think that's a good plan to start up with dichlor either way. I don't know what the burn up rate is of my bromine bank due to the ozonator, so if I ran low without knowing, it would be very good to have some chlorine buffering. I may also run a week or two with bromine tabs to build up DMH to a low level...I suppose though that bromine based SWGs don't mess with that, so maybe it's really not a concern.
  13. This is great info. I picked up on the bleach/dichlor method here a couple months ago and applied it to my bromine spa (already added NaBr at last refill and also was using BCDMH tablets plus dichlor as needed for first month). I wanted to slow the TDS rise rate and not pollute the water with excess CYA and also the DMH from tablets. Although my water is crystal clear and smells good after 3 months (credit the ozonator mostly), a couple questions have arisen. In a bromine spa, do we need to be concerned with buffering our bromine like a chlorine spa? Dichlor hydrolyzes to chlorine and CYA
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