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nmiller0113

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Everything posted by nmiller0113

  1. @waterbear, thank you again for your time and all of your feedback and advice. Since we last spoke I drained my hot tub, followed @Nitro's full cleanse instruction and then filled it back up and followed all of your instruction and @Nitro's Dichlor/Bleach in a nutshell method. For weeks I've now got perfectly clear and clean water that is amazing. My pH is at 7.6 and my TA is at 60 and everything is staying stable. I added 50ppm of borates and I'm sure that is helping as well. I now have my maintenance process working as it should and know how to measure and adjust as needed...properly. The fa
  2. Got it thanks! Good to know, I also saw your other response That makes more sense! I'll keep an eye on CC and determine how often I need to shock it, as a verb , raising FC to 12ppm. Based on the Taylor FAQ's it looks like 0 is ideal so I know my range (0 to .5) Found it, that will be very helpful! Thank you again @waterbearfor all of your guidance and insight! This has been a very educational conversation and now it's time to put it into action! I really cannot express how much better I feel just knowing more about how this all works! I'm glad I found this forum! Pro
  3. That's great info @waterbear, thank you again!
  4. I most definitely am overthinking it, I've also not been using the Acid Demand test to get exact amounts and just basing it on the doses mentioned on the chemicals I've purchased. Maybe that's why I've been yoyo'ing. You mention lowering TA after getting to 7.6 pH to reach a target TA. What is the target, or would I not know that until I see how my pH behaves after some time and I find the sweet spot? What if my TA is 40 to 50 following the lowering of pH with Acid? Thank you, I ordered some boric acid from Duda Energy and also ordered some LaMotte borate test strips It doesn't
  5. Thank you @RDspaguy! I'm assuming that won't impact my CYA like a dichlor would, correct? Also, what do I select in the pool calculator effects to determine my needs? Thanks again!
  6. Quick question, is this the Clorox that @Nitro was referring to?
  7. @waterbear Happy New Year! I was just looking back to see if there were any updates to my last questions as I’m working on cleaning and refilling tomorrow to start from scratch. I didn’t know if you had seen my last response so I’m just checking to confirm. I assume though that you’ve probably seen it and just been too busy to respond since I asked a lot more questions. Either way, thank you again and I hope you’re new year is starting off well!
  8. @waterbearThank you so much for the details I really really appreciate the education and all that I've learned here from your and others like @chem geek posts. Sorry for the delayed response, the holidays had me distracted. Yes, I read your post and was only confused because it's very clear on how to lower TA (and pH) incrementally and raise pH (independently) up through aeration, but my problem has never been with high TA. As you mentioned, I targeted a TA of 80 based on what I read in the Taylor Kit. I thought that was what I needed to be at, but as your post states, there is no way
  9. I just found this article from Nitro, sounds like it may be what I'm looking for, but please let me know if you have any additional comments or supplemented info for it @waterbear. I'm also still interested in getting some clarification on my previous responses to better understand why even on a brand new fresh fill of water I still can't get my TA any higher than 40 without exceeding a PH of 7.8. If I haven't added any MPS at that point, is my ozonator the cause of my PH raising to a point where I can't get my TA above 40? Do I need to remove my ozonator and just follow Nitro's guide? Thanks
  10. I believe I understand what you mean, I was only referring to "normal" based off of what is described in the Taylor test kit. I want to make sure I'm being clear on this, after I've drained and refilled my hot tub, before running anything or adding anything, including the N2 or any chemicals, my levels show around 180 TA and PH off the charts. Before I add any MPS or Dichlor, only running the jets to mix (ozone is on by default) I cannot get my PH under 7.8 unless my TA is 40 or less. If I were to get my TA up to 50 my PH has always increased over 7.8. I'm re-stating this because you had ment
  11. Thanks again @RDspaguy I've waited this long, I've got absolutely no problem waiting a bit longer for the knowledge of a subject matter expert
  12. I also just changed the title to Normal PH / Low TA, as the original title I used High PH / Low TA was not accurate. I thought about it just now and my PH is in the normal / target range. It's just that my TA is low when I'm in this range.
  13. Thanks @RDspaguy, but I'm not sure that I can achieve that. I was at 34 two days ago with a PH of 7.8, which I also confirmed with my local pool supplier tests against my own. Unless it's possible to make a small change that will only impact TA by 14 and not impact my PH of 7.8? I'm opening to any opinion
  14. I've read several articles on this forum and they've all been very, very educational and helpful. Unfortunately none of them have helped me figure out why I cannot achieve PH/TA balance. The only reason I'm posting this is because I have a feeling that it's something specific to the details of my setup. Hopefully the following details will help someone provide me some guidance as I've only owned this hot tub since July and I'm at the point of giving up on achieving PH/TA balance! Let's set the baseline. This is a hot tub that was already installed at the house I purchased. It's a 350 gall
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