meh07

Following up for those interested. I had great success with adding salt last and in increments. I started by adding all the other startup chemicals, checking and adjusting levels as I went. (And yes, waterbear, you were correct – my plain tap water had TA 90 and CH 137.) Then I added 2/3 of the suggested salt amount and the SWG indicated low salt. So, I added ¼ of the previous amount, and bingo, the magic blue light came on. The SWG is now creating so much chlorine that I’ve had to turn it down from 6 to 3 (also helped by the new presence of CYA, I imagine.) Also, the effect of adding borate has been excellent. My TA and pH had been all over the place, but since initial adjustment it hasn’t budged from ~135 and 7.6 in two weeks. Thanks for the help!

Wow, you've given me a lot to think about. Every time I think I have this stuff down, something blows up and I have to learn something new to deal with it. It's kind of fun though. This weekend it's time for another drain and fill. The borate (Leisure Time - Spa Balancer pH Balance Plus), LaMotte Borate and Aquachek salt titrator test strips I ordered should be in by then and I might pick up some Muriatic acid as well. (I may need an excuse splip from you for all the stuff I'm buying to give to my wife. But she's the one who wanted the thing anyway!) My approach this time around will be to add everything esle that's need besides salt first, and then add as little salt as possible only at the end. And my hope is that the bromide causes less chemicals to be needed to control the pH. Getting to RDspaguy's comment, it seems that just about everything I'm putting in there is an elctrolite, potentially adding to the conductivity of the water and leading to the cell shutting down. The top four additives I'm using are TA increaser, pH reducer, MPS and dichlor, which are all salts. Makes me wonder why everyone is not having the same problem as I am with the chlorine generator. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thank you for taking an interest in my problem. Since I've had this spa, I have tried to keep the numbers in line with the chlorine generator manufacturer's recommended parameters; below are those and my current numbers. Per recos here, I have ordered a Taylor K-2006. But for now I'm using a Taylor test kit for pH and chlorine only, an electronic tester for salt, and strips for TA and CH. Mfg. Reco Current FC 2.0-3.0 2.0 pH 7.2-7.6 7.2 TA 80-120 80 CH 200-400 250 Salt 1500-2000 2600 I check it every day or two and almost always find the pH high (8.0+) and the chlorine low (0.0-0.5). For pH, if TA is blow 80 (about every second or third time), I raise it first, check both again and then add pH reducer as needed. (I have just read here about keeping TA lower than the traditional 80-120 and am considering it.) For low chlorine I hit the boost button, which usually gets it to 3.0, at least for a while. I have college-age kids at home and the spa typically gets used about 8-14 people hours per week.

Hi, I'm using a ChlorMaker in a 350gal tub. Initially I set the salt level to 1,750 ppm, the generator indicates Salt Level Normal and works fine for a while. But after a few weeks the device starts to warn of Salt Level High, and then by a month or so shuts down due to Salt Level Exceeds Maximum. At that point I have to drain about 1/3 water and refill with fresh water, and then the generator is happy again. I haven't been able to get through to technical support and am wondering if something I'm adding is driving the salt level up unusually high, or if this is just par for the course with chlorine generators. I use the normal kinds of chemicals like chlorine and oxidizing shock, TA increaser, pH reducer and clarifier. I would appreciate any insights you may have.