jamesey

@CanadianSpaTech @RDspaguy Hi Guys, I just wanted to report back with a big thank you to both of you. I think my spa was built around Pump1. The larger pump would of encountered many issues during install. Everything went wrong, but in the end it all worked out. Took me about 8 hours including a trip to Home Depot to get a part that I broke during install. Spa is purring like a kitten! Thanks again and whatever you charge to replace pumps is not enough. What an ordeal for someone that has never done it before!

@RDspaguy@CanadianSpaTech I ended up reordering the wrong pump again, but this time on purpose. I also ordered this adapter https://www.spadepot.com/2-x-2-12-Pump-Thread-Adapter-wO-Ring-Gasket-P9326C719.aspx . Please tell me this was a good idea. It was suggested by waterway plastics. I will return the 5HP pump back to amazon. link to wrong pump. 2 inch wet end. current pump is 2.5 wet end and 2 to heater. At first I thought it would change the flow, but then I'm thinking what good is a 2.5 inlet if the output is constricted to 2 inch. So logically this made sense to me to just buy an adapter as suggested by manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VTH8R4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@RDspaguyI meant on the electric portion already have jet covers falling off! Sounds like I need to get some glue. Do you really think the extra 3 amps & 1hp will destroy the arctic spa Klondiker? Have you heard of anyone going up 1 hp and destroying their spa? You know 1000x more about the spa's than I do. I only know enough to be dangerous and that wasn't by choice. Upset children was my motivation to get her back up and running!

I wasn’t planning on changing the breaker. It’s 50amp and spa manufacturer recommends 60amp panel when equipped with 4 pumps. I only have to. Thinking the LC mode will keep me well under the 50amps. The new pump 1 is 3.5 amps more on high speed than the one it’s replacing. I bought a new 25amp fuse to replace the fuse blown by the bad pump. Is there more to be concerned about?

Thanks @CanadianSpaTech and @RDspaguy If I understand correctly. It's recommended to put the jumper 1 in LC mode? That will ensure the heater doesn't run when both pumps are on high. While waiting for your responses I read a few blogs (parts companies) that said it was ok to modest pump upgrades. Can't go from a 1.5hp to a 4hp, but a 3 to 4 was ok. Since 4 to 5HP is less of a jump percentage wise than the examples given I thought it would be ok. I also read other blogs in the past that said don't push the spa limits as the parts wasn't designed for the higher HP. Which aligns with your feedback. Knowing that this was my only option sold by amazon and only having one left in stock I pulled the trigger last night on the order. You see my neighbor bought a pool and my kids keep salivating out the window (pic enclosed). During the covid-19 pandemic we don't even visit family (who have pools). We are sheltered at the moment. This elevated my impatience. This morning I read your responses and I immediately went to cancel my order since it hadn't shipped yet. Realizing the blogs came from part suppliers who make money when things break! Wouldn't you know amazon had no issues canceling the secondary items in the order, but nope not the pump(pic enclosed)! So then I had a pump coming without fuses or cover lol. I quickly reordered them since the pump couldn't be canceled. I ordered the cover as my hard cover started letting water into the tub and I don't want to spend $400+ on a new walk-on cover at the moment. I figured it was a cheaper route for the moment! At this point I think you are both right, but I will take my chances. I refuse to take my kids to any pool during the pandemic and who knows if amazon will ever have my correct pump in stock any time soon. It's their return policy that keeps me from looking elsewhere.

@CanadianSpaTech I think I found what you are talking about. LC/HC jumper setting? If the jumper is on HC maybe I should move it to LC? I’m speculating it’s high current mode / low current mode. Low would cut out heat when both pumps on high? pic attached of inside spa panel diagram. Added another pic which I think is the jumper that appears to be in LC mode. -edit I was looking at jumper 2. I can’t tell from pic if jumper 1 is in LC or HC mode. after reading the below I am wondering why it’s set to LC mode. Should I move it to HC? -edit never mind. Didn’t realize it says more than 2. I should leave it at LC and amperage will be fine. I hope ”Jumper 1 Current limiting option Jumper 1 is used to limit the current drawn when more than 1 pump (or a pump and blower) are activated at the same time. Position 1 = HC (High Current) mode Heater will be turned off if more than 2 pumps are on at high speed. Position 2 = LC (Low Current) mode The heater may not be turned on if any pump (1, 2 or 3) is on at high speed. The "Heater" indicator will flash to indicate a request for heat, but the heater will not be allowed to start.” -source

@CanadianSpaTech Thank you again!! My sub panel is 50amp. My spa doesn’t have the ozonator option (2008). It was an option at the time that I didn’t purchase. 2-speed pump 1, single speed pump 2, heater, lights, aqua tremor speaker. The manual states my model equipped with 4 pumps needs a 60amp panel. Since I only have 2 pumps does that mean I should be fine moving up to the 5hp model For pump1. Yellow 4hp was 12.9 the 5hp one is 16.4. Pics of panel and specs are attached: Thank you thank you thank you

@CanadianSpaTech Thank you so much. you saved me! You are right it's 2.5 and 2". Can I use the cord/molded plug from the yellow one or do I need to buy one that goes with the waterway pump? I want to buy it from amazon for hassle free return just in case. They don't sell the one I need at the moment. I will keep checking as they sell every other one. Any chance I can use the 5 HP below or will I break something? Specs below in 2 screen shots. It's more HP and 3.5 amp higher speed (yellow one 12.9). No idea why they are selling it for the same price as the 4HP ones they have listed.

Photos posed below in thread. Sorry I think I put it in the wrong spot. Newb

@CanadianSpaTech, Here is a photo of the panel. I plugged in pump1, replaced the pump1 fuse and it blew again as soon as I turned on the breaker. Which also popped. I had the hi temp and Flo switch disconnected, but the main heater wire plugged in. I am back to thinking it's the pump and not the heater. I spoke to waterway to see what pump would replace the yellow one pictured and they recommended Model: 3721621-1D. Please let me know what you think. Thank you!!

@CanadianSpaTech, Hi CanadianSpaTech, Thank you very much for your response. If I turn it on with the without the heater connected (main wire), but leave the other 2 HI temp & Flow and pump 1 is plugged in (with good or blown fuse) it will pop the circuit breaker. It's the pump 1 fuse that blows SC-25. I don't think it's the pump with the short since it can be plugged in providing the FLOW & Hi Temp are not connected. I ordered a new fuse and will try to see if I can get pump 1 to run while FLO switch & HI Temp wires are disconnected. That was my next plan of attack. I am sorry, but I do not have a photo of the panel at this time. I will take a picture next time I open up the cabinet. When the fuse comes. Didn't want to leave it open because of rain and animals. Could I use a multimeter to determine if the heater is causing the short? If so, what is the process for that?

I tried opening my hot tub for the season. I filled it with water. Turned the breaker on and pump 1 didn't come on. Pump 2 worked fine. Tried removing the filter and it made no difference. The 25 amp fuse was blown. After the fuse was replaced. I turned the breaker back on and it immediately turned off at the panel and popped the new fuse. No idea what changed, but now the breaker won't stay on with a bad fuse in it. Have to remove pump1 wire from spa panel. Maybe when the fuse completed the circuit again it made the short worse after the next pop not sure. Tested 1 component at a time and if everything was plugged in with pump 1 being unplugged. I could turn the breaker on and it would be fine. This made me think pump 1 was bad. I turned off the breaker, plugged pump 1 back in, pump2, heater, etc and unplugged both the flow switch wire and the HI temp wire coming from the heater at the spa panel. Turned the breaker on and it the breaker didn't pop. Now I am thinking pump 1 is fine and the heater is bad. The main power plug from the heater to the panel does not trip the breaker. It only trips when pump 1 and heater is plugged in and both the flow switch and temp sensor is plugged into the spa panel. I think it's strange that the temp sensor or the flow switch would trip the breaker, but the main power plug for it does not. Has anyone experienced this? How can I be absolutely sure it's the heater before spending $160 to get a new one? Other details arctic spa Klondiker made in 2007 . Heater closely resembles Thermcore heater C2550-0103TT