Daves_hottub

wow, yup, I would say that is toast. His wasn't nearly that bad, I would be worried about other stuff around it even if you could replace it.

yeah, he replaced the entire board.

It was definitely the relay as he is still up and running. He hasn't tried replacing the relay yet on the old board though. If you pull your board out of the case it should be very easy to tell as there were burn marks around his.

I know it doesn't make sense but that is what I was seeing. if the heater was not connected i could read 240V between the two legs on the board. As soon as I connected the heater the voltage between the connectors dropped to 0. Because they didn't make sense I double and triple checked the readings. It was definitely calling for heat. He broke down and bought a new motherboard and swapped it in. Yup, the main heater relay was fried and blown out on the back of the old board. He is up and running now and plans on getting a replacement relay and swapping it in just in case the new board dies at some point. Thanks for looking and the advice.

Hey all, I am helping a buddy with his hot tub and it's puzzling me completely. The Eco-Pak motherboard says it is the Global Spa Rev 3.06 Copyright August 2013 He replaced the element last weekend because it wasn't heating up. After he replaced it though he still has no heat. It runs through it's startup sequence and tries to fire up the heater. Both pumps work fine and as expected. So we started checking it out. The heater has resistance of about 11 I think so that seems good. We checked the pressure switch and even bypassed it to make sure it was working and it was all good. The heater only has three wires, black , white and green. The ground was good and black and white hooked up to the board. When I checked voltage on each leg I got 110v to ground on each one. But when I checked between black and white I got 0 volts. There are no error codes on the display and it just keeps running. If I disconnect the heater and check voltage I have 240 between the terminals. I also "think" there is voltage on each terminal right away when I flip on the breaker and I thought there shouldn't be until it calls for heat but I might be wrong on that. I also disconnected the black wire hooked up a lead to that terminal on the motherboard, turn on the breaker, verify I had 240V, hook up the black wire to the lead and then boom I had 0 volts again. One final check was to check voltage between white and black heater wires and the red and black power coming in. heater Terminal Block Voltage White Red 240 V White Black 0 Black Red 240 Black Black 0 Some of my tests were probably useless but wanted to let you know everything I did. Oh also the old heater tested exactly the same for resistance. And ideas?

I bought the used pack and components. N.YE-5-H4.0-AMP-V2-GD3 in.k-450 blower (wasn't concerned about but he threw it in) waterway 1.5hp 2 speed pump (didn't need so now have another spare ) got it all hooked up, replaced the cords to the motors, cut a new hole for the control and all is working great. The second pump that was in the tub was a two speed but the old control was only setup for one speed so now I have even more options. So far I like it. I stuffed pink insulation in where i dug out the old foam to get at the leak as well as any gaps in the cabinet. Now to button it all up and hope we aren't at -40 all winter. 😬 Thanks for all the advice.

haha, I also like to "poke the bear" occasionally. 🙂

Haha, thanks for the star. 🙂 i suspect you are right about the repair guy but I am just considering that the pack is almost 20 years old now and what might go next.. what do you love to hate about the Gecko? A lot of bad experiences or... ?

I finally tracked down the leak and it was one of the jet housings that was leaking. That was not fun to replace but it is done now and finally no more leaks. I figured out exactly which relay was sticking because it stayed stuck after the last time it overheated and I was able to open it with a knife. I used some very fine sandpaper to clean it up a little and then used some contact cleaner but I suspect it will stick again. The topside panel is very basic and barely visible in the day time so I was considering replacing both. I found a Gecko N.YE-5-H4.0-AMP-V2-GD3 locally for a good price that looks like it would be a decent replacement. I would have to switch all my connectors but I would have to do that even if I went with a new Balboa so that is pretty much moot. Any reason not to go with a Gecko? It looks decent.

Yeah, I think that is the best call. Spadepot.com won't deliver to downtown Edmonton either. 😞 I will start there. Thanks guys. p.s. I gave all of them a good tap and it is working for the moment.

yeah, mine are not AMP Style, they are the old plug type. So most likely yeah I would need all new connectors as well.

Where did you see a new pack for $400 with control and heater? Mine has 2 pumps and the blower and the cheapest I have found is here: https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-bp7-with-tp500-bundle-4kw-heater-2-pumps/ for $709 CAD If I could find one for $400 it's almost a no brainer. I found a replacement board for $320 USD + Shipping

any idea which one it is?

Hmm, never considered that. Good call. I will phone around. I was hoping it was socketed or something.

Is it fixable or am I screwed?