brunp

I only have the one filter, I will remove and test, but how exactly would this cause a problem. Would appreciate knowing? And what would I do to test sensors? Temp probe? looking at temperature reading every X minutes? Just wondering? Paul

I thought after replacing the heater element, I would have a problem free period, but nope. Back to HL code. Knowns: Filter is clean, only filled the hot-tub about 3 weeks ago with fresh water, and the chemical balance is spot on Heater element is new. Temperature probe is relatively new, was replaced within the past year. I really hope I don't have to replace the board, but wondering what sort of diagnostics I can run with the board itself to determine if I have to replace. Would suck to have to source that piece at this moment. 😞 Paul

alright, finally after having to wait for my part. I finally got the straight-tube replacement heater. The shut-off valves don't do a good job of really cutting off water flow as when I started to disconnect the pipe, more then the normal amount of water that would be in the lower area started gushing out. I had to drain the tub as a result to finish the job. Anyways, the new heater resolved my problem. I did a test to confirm the ohm reading of about 10-14 ohm's and got that reading. Now, it is all back together. Just doing a spa flush, and refill as I wanted to clean out the pipes. Paul

I have to wait until mid-week for a new heater element. I disconnected the heater for now and turned on the hot-tub to have some sort of flow during the colder nights. I don't want the pipes to freeze and am at around 69 degree's, so I set it to 62 for now. Will continue to monitor until I can replace the unit. Paul

I can do lots like restoring and rewiring my car, building decks, doing home electrical when required. The desire though to replace an element within the housing is not high on the list. Besides, that heater element is likely 10 years old, might as well get a new one with the 5-year warranty from Arctic Spas.

I did an Ohm resistance test and it appears the heater is dead. No read-out from the Ohm setting on my multi-meter.

I disconnected the main positive/negative heater terminals. So far 5+ minutes and breaker no tripped. What do I test in terms of continuity to ground?

I do remember having to replace the little metal heat sensor element a while as it was getting the High temp error. After that, it worked. i will do as suggested and disconnect the heater first and isolate the component that is not working. I live in Ottawa, Canada. Thanks Paul

I have a 10 yr old Arctic Spa - Cub model and as I was going out to do a empty/refill on the tub, I noticed the power was off. Some event within the past week tripped the breaker. So, I went back to the junction box, filled the switch, and not even 5 minutes later, the breaker tripped. Any suggestions on how to diag the issue? What should I look at first? Paul

Finally had time to perform a diagnostic in the cold temps and it appears the HI-LIMIT probe needs to be replace as parts of it is rusty, so, it is not sending an accurate temperature to the mother-board.

Thank you. I will review and follow the diagnostic steps. Paul

Hi all, I use replaceable filters that I buy from the spa store which screws into the filter housing without any issue. Regardless, I replaced the filter and it was time to also drain and refill the tub with fresh water. Within about a day, the HL code returned. Whenever I go to the hot-tub, it is always at the time I end up going in, and usually temps are at 99 vs the 102 I set it at. I end up killing the power, waiting 15 seconds and restarting the tub. What is the next thing I need to look at? Paul

Thank you. I will swap out the filter for sure. how often would you exchange a filter? I know it is dependent on many factors, but generally speaking?

I don't know. Every time I come to it, I see the temp around 97-101. We have it set at 101, so don't know when it occurs and I usually check out the hot tub every 2 to 3 days. Paul

Wondering if I can draw upon the experience of the experts to assist in this code? What should I look at? What could I test with my volt/continuity multi-test device? Thanks in advance. Paul