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jimmythegreek

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jimmythegreek last won the day on July 6

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  1. You need to get the wiring correct. Should be a 20 and 30 amp gfci in the sub box. The 20 won't have a nuetral but the 30 will so you need 4 wire for that. I have a OEM hot springs box with the dual 20/30 gfci breakers if you need one cheap I wired mine to my pool automation panel nearby and it uses different breakers so had to bite the bullet
  2. There are many variations of parts so impossible to say without details. If you can post good pictures of the board and parts, and how you wired it, we can guide you along. Be sure to check you have power to the main board. Do you have a voltmeter?
  3. Your not gonna cut out maintenence in anything that holds water. I feel pools are simple to maintain. Use a swg and a robot and you do very little. Swim spas are nice if your an actual swimmer amd exercise with it. Nothing beats an inground pool for cooling off but I'm in the northeast i dont deal with 100+ here
  4. As long as you make metal to metal contact do what you can to make it work. When you say the threads came out what doea that mean. Is the niche metal or plastic? The potting compound seals the ground lug from the water. The chlorine content will degrade the exposed wire amd after time could eat it all the way thru. Potting compound can be found in any electrical supply house amd many places online
  5. Dont do much with above grounds but a slab is something I haven't seen. I would do rigid foam board amd use any type of construction adhesive it's not going anywhere with all the water weight
  6. The LED system in my flair is a nightmare. I got it knowing it wasnt working. I got almost half working now. They have a power supply and a controller that are very sensitive. If a light goes out it will burn the control out if not replaced or unhooked. I had to bypass the circ pump and loop water in and out of my pool to trick the iq2020 to operate like normal while tub is empty. Out of 40 lights I have 18 working only 3 bulbs were good. Rest are new and I've had 2 melted housings, one easy at top amd one by footwell that took hours to replace. The bulbs are 15 a piece, I got lucky and had a new controller amd power supply that came with tub. If a bulb goes out have to replace asap or unhook from feed wire to save the rest of system. On a new tub worst case they replace them all and the supply amd controller. The oring seal at base is the weak link. I'm using waterproof plumbers grease on the seal and dielectric grease in the socket. So far so good
  7. Thanx for the links. It's not crazing they are just swirls mostly. If it was I'd have the heat gun on it now that's a slick fix makes total sense. The 2 spots are wear spots long and skinny on a raised part of shell opposite the control pad both sides. Im guessing the cheap cover on it has a rough mesh backer under it that's been rubbing it on every slide off. RDspaguy I figured you were around these parts. They're lucky to have you here sharing the knowledge. When you say acrylic clearcoat are we talking about spraying on a new topcoat after some prep like blending clearcoat on a car paintjob? Enlighten me please
  8. I have a new to me limelight flair. Great shape overall it's a pearl color shell. Looks like the previous owner had no lifter and the mesh under cover scratched up the topside. Not bad but you can see it in certain lighting conditions with sun etc. Its got 2 small sections that are more than swirls. I read polishing compound for cars works. I have experience detailing I was just wondering if someone has done this before and looking for a product recommendation. Most stuff I see is just wipe on waxy stuff. I need something a little more aggressive for the 2 spots
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