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jimmythegreek last won the day on April 12

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About jimmythegreek

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    Spa Savant

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  1. Good trick for a nice caulk job is take 5 min amd run tape carefully leaving a 1/16 to an 1/8" gap around the flange. You tape the edge if flange leaving a 1/16 there too. Run your bead tiny like posted above with a 45 cut leaving hole small on caulk tube amd wipe with your wet finger really well. Pull tape after it tacks in a few min amd you have a factory looking bead of schmooze
  2. Those are nightmare pools to repair. The best amd longterm fix is to install liner track on wall face and turn it into a liner pool. Only prep is to grind out those bubbles. You can feather them back in with regular bondo
  3. The drain should be filled with concrete amd flushed smooth amd the liner placed over with no penetrations. At the minimum they should have just left liner intact and installed the cover grill. No reason to cut liner I'm on an abandoned drain
  4. Need more details. Was the pool always unlevel or is this new? How did the contractor handle plaster amd tile of the pool if not level? This could be major issue with the skimmer for starters. Pics?
  5. Do you actually have amy flow at that speed coming out of the returns? Not sure how you control solar but 1500 isnt enough for solar. I have a small 4 panel array amd run 2100 on a full size Hayward VS for optimum flow.
  6. When you replace a cover the best upgrade is a full length seam stopper. Standard is just the small patch under hinge on the sides, a full one seals very well. Get the best wrap as well for the guts
  7. If your pulling a permit there can be no overhead power near the pool/spa. Basically in the event the wires broke and fell into the pool is the theory. With pools it can be an issue, with a spa, pick a spot a few feet over....much cheaper
  8. What hayward control box does he have? How is the pool chlorinated? You do realize the pool needs to run filter and skim regardless of the pools usage
  9. I deal with this building pools. It's expensive. We usually have to get the electrician to rough in a new weatherhead amd drop to the meter then he calls in power company amd they move the existing feed to a new hanger amd reconnect the service. Its cheaper if the feed shortens up, if they have to do a new drop from the pole to house some power companies make the end user pay that too, adds quite a bit to a couple grand job
  10. That's an older style of anchor known as Tbar and keyways. Same cover build, they just install Tbars instead of rings
  11. Double check that you valves are activating properly. This issue usually is a result of either the powered valves or a manual valve not keeping the spa isolated. If that is 100% not the issue then likely a gas issue whether pressure or low flame output
  12. Any reason you cant splice the connector that fits your board onto the Watkins one. I believe they are all 2 wire sensors
  13. Hopefully you get lucky and I think you will. Usually when it goes it's done, it wont work intermittently like you describe. Have you ohm'd them out to see if anything obvious with them? I spent a few days over the summer and replaced almost every bulb, a few sockets, and rewired several sections to get mine working. I prefer no lights too, but when kids or others are over the lights are essential. They use resistance to change color and brightness, a single bulb out can fry the control pack. The Oring weakens and lets water into the back of socket and causes issues. I used a blob of d
  14. I would just order a pair they are cheap enough and easy to swap. Reading this thread makes me cringe as I have a flair as well amd I'd hate to lose the topside, I didn't realize they were discontinued I had seen them online but looked and sure enough cant add to cart anywhere. I'm guessing if swapping out to a universal pack the LED lighting would no longer work, that would suck
  15. For anyone reading this in future, some 2 pole 240v breakers have just nuetral lugs and no pigtail like 120v breakers Nice award RDspaguy!
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