RF_Burns

Well, I actually had some time left under warranty and the dealer did an over-the-counter exchange! You don't get that service often these days!

Hello, I have a Gecko in.yj-3 controller that appears to be just cycling ON/OFF and not powering up. I opened the controller and checked the power voltage all ok... 240V and 120V to neutral. The Power LED on the board just cycles On/OFF in about a 1 second cycle, along with 3 other LEDs on the board. I can also hear a relay clicking at the same rate but I can't identify which relay. I had just filled the hot tub yesterday for the season and got the water PH etc levels set today. When I looked at it later this afternoon the display was flashing and no operation. Anyone have any ideas? I have a disappointed wife.... Thanks for any suggestions.

Canadianspatech check your private messages and let me know. Thanks Bruce

Yes, they are not far from me and I have purchased from them before. John said it would be a good match for my simple hot-tub. I sent you an email for more info Thanks again!

Conclusion, I ended up removing the in.xm and in.therm. I purchased a in.yj-3 Spa Pack Kit for the same price as an in.therm alone. My hot tub has only a single 2-speed 2hp motor and ozonator so it matches up well. It wasn't plug'n play but the kit comes with all the cables needed. It took less than 2 hours to hook it up. I was taking my time to be sure I didn't overlook anything. Biggest pain in the butt was the 2" hose connections are backwards from the in-therm. But the kit comes with the proper fittings and I had the pipe solvents to do the job. I used the existing in.k450 keypad, but it does come with a small LED keypad. I still need to connect the ozonator and the tub light. It comes with a light cable and even an LED lamp. Its been working flawlessly for 3 days so hopefully this is the end of my issues for a while Thanks all, especially CandianSpaTech for all his help.

So, The hot tub continued to throw "No Flow" errors randomly, but if I just ignored it, it seemed to correct itself and worked till about a week ago. Then motor quit and the pool started to cool with Rh-nH (no heat) error. I could heat the spa pack relays click, but no voltage to the motor... fuses Ok etc. I sent an email to Gecko who told me to measure the motor voltages, if no voltage the Spa Pack needed to be replaced. Obviously they didn't read the whole email since I stated I already did this. So I opened the spa pack and found there was no conductivity through the main Line 2 relay. Opened the relay and found pitted contacts which I cleaned and now the motor runs fine. But it continues to give a "no Heat" error unless I reduce the heat setting below the current water temperature. When I raise the setting, the "No Heat" error returns. I monitored the voltage across and current to the heater element and it remains at zero... so it never applies power to the heat element. There is power at the relays, but I can't detect them operating. The dispay never shows it calling for heat. So either the spa pack is not telling the in-therm to heat, or the in-therm is not responding to heat request or just returning bad info. So I don't know which is bad... I see I can buy a whole in.xm2 and in-therm kit, or maybe I can goto to a simpler system...? an in.xe or in.y series?? This is just a simple hot tub, single 2-speed pump, heater and ozone module. any ideas?

So it still comes up with no-flow errors. After cycling the power it was about 90 minutes bringing the temp up from 99 to 100F, but no errors. Anyway, see what happens.

Well, I spoke too soon. Went out this morning and it was running doing its filter cycle.... but it was displaying rH-nF (no flow). The water temperature is 95F while set = 100F. So I'm thinking it didn't make it to 100F I'll cycle the power and see what happens. Update, I just walked back out, the error has cleared and the temp says 99F and shows the heater ON. I'll just let it be and see what it does. I'm an electronics guy and one thing that drives me crazy is applying too much electronics and algorithms to a simple requirement like this... water flow. I used to goto Las Vegas alot for conventions. Every revolving door was motorized and computer controlled... "Please move forward..." it would stop and go. There would be a line up of people trying to get through the revolving doors. I would just walk through the normal door on either side... then need to stand there and wait for my hi-techy buddies to get through the stupid computerized revolving doors. Just disconnect the computer and let the people push the revolving door!! it works! //rant-off

IT'S WORKING! so I swapped the high and low speed wires and did a low level learn of the motor current... that seems to have fixed the issue! :) I notice now the spinner on pump 1 spins slow on slow speed and fast on fast speed. So I'm guessing when the pump was replaced, the Tech got the wires backwards. Refilled the tub and as of 9pm it was still running and heating up. Thanks very much for your help !

He replaced the pump and jets and cover in Jan/18. He started getting errors again (not sure what errors) in the summer of 2018. He was told he needed another new pump, but they were moving so he didn't fix it. I assume it was working fine for the 6 months or so till he started getting errors again. I bought it from them in August/18, and found the knife valve at the input to the pump was partially closed, retainer clip was missing. So I thought I found the problem, but then I was diagnosed with cancer, so chemo delayed things more than a year. Finally just got it hooked up now. If I cycle the breaker, I'm pretty certain it powers up at high speed. I'm also pretty certain it does the filtering at high speed. It looks to have an OEM Gecko power cord to the motor... White -common Red-high speed black-low speed green-ground, unless red and black are opposite on the Gecko cord. If I start the motor manually, it starts at high speed, then second press goes to low speed, third press turns motor OFF. If that is opposite from normal operation, then the motor speeds must be backwards. I can try reversing the motor connections when I refill it today. It would make more sense to heat on low speed. I was going on the premise that it wasn't reading enough water flow. It looks to have a temperature sensor on the input and output of the in.Therm. I'm assuming it would want to see the output temperature slightly higher than the input. If input and output were close to the same temperature when calling for heat, then there isn't enough flow. The in.therm spec is minimum 18 gallons/minute, which seemed more than low speed could deliver. Thanks again for your help!

I picked up some Marine JB Weld and epoxied the metal sensor band to the side of the in.Therm. I'll see in the morning if it sticks... JB Weld website says it adheres to PVC and "most" metals. I could not find obstruction with the borescope camera this evening. I counted 32 jets on this one, so you are right, our old BeachComber likely had the same size pump but less than a dozen jets. I know the pump was replaced, but I'm not sure if 2hp was the same as the original size. The Gecko site says the in.Therm requires a minimum flow of 18 gallons/minute. The pump runs on High when calling for heat, but I see references to heating at low speed. When I do a Low Level setup and it does a current learn on the motor, it seems to run at high speed during high speed current learn, and low speed when doing low speed current learn. I wish I could determine for sure where the issue is. I don't want to spend $800 on an in.Therm only to find out it was something else! (retired now, no income!) Thanks for you ideas!

The sun is too bright to my borescope camera to seen down the piping, so I'll wait till the sun sets. I did find a stainless steel band on the inlet to the in.Therm that is not attached to the case. There is one band on each end of the in.Therm which I am assuming senses the inlet and outlet temperature. The band on the inlet side has come away from the housing and could obstruct water flow. You can see (or I can see) marks where the end of the band scratchs the opposite end of the band, so it does move. The only way I can think of to fix it would maybe to epoxy it to the housing. I'm not sure if the epoxy would stick.

So I disassembled the pump and found the impeller to me looks way too small! There is about 3/4" clearance at the closest point to the housing. I'm thinking it should be much bigger... See the photo with my screwdriver between the impeller and housing for reference. The impeller has 2HP:2200 on it. This is a 2HP (56 frame?, over 6" wide) says Flo-Master XP2e XP2e-632022 on it. Edit: So I should have looked this up first, but this appears to be correct for a 2HP motor. I'll keep looking for more issues.

Well it ran for over 3 hours and got to 92F before it shut down saying Rh-nF (no water flow). Pump would come back ON manually, current was the same @ 7 Amps on hi-speed. Voltage ranged between 225 and 230V. So I'm dumping it and checking for any obstruction. The flow on high speed doesn't seem to be up there where I think it should be.

So I was going to dump the water this morning and pull everything apart looking for an obstruction... But first I thought I would check the motor current with my clamp on AC ammeter. It reads ~ 7 amps on high speed. The motor data plate reads 8.4 Amps on high speed (that would be at Max load I am assuming) So I put the unit into a Low Level current learn mode to see if something had changed. The in.XM still reads the high speed current as 10.8 Amps and the low speed as 3.7 Amps. I'm more inclined to believe the meter over the Spa pack. So I let it run and its been going for about 1.5 hours now with no issues... warmed up from 74-81F