bmbouter

I did I read that and maybe 4 other posts. My main takeaway was that I should focus on TA and use that to adjust my PH. In practice though it seems that if I use a PH as an indicator of a healthy TA then my TA will end up around 60 and I've also been told from Nitro's guide that my TA should be around 100.

I mostly follow nitro's approach to water chemistry for my 350 gallon hot tub. I use the Taylor test kit and for the most part everything is fine. What I've noticed though is that when I want to raise the TA with baking soda, I also end up raising the PH. Then when I go to lower the PH with this it also lowers the TA. I've usually settle for a TA of 60 and a PH of about 7.9. Overall this gives me a CSI of 0.05 which I think is pretty great and it stays very stable, but my understanding is I should have my TA higher, like 100. So two questions? What do folks do to raise their TA without raising their PH? Do you think I should have my TA higher? Thanks in advance! This forum is great!

It's hard to tell because I cannot pull off the siding of the right side of the tub which is the section I would need to access the lighting nook. Because I cannot see it, I cannot post a picture. I do not think the nook light has a ground at all because all of the grounds on the electrical systems I can clearly see have no wires going "back" to the part of the tub I cannot access. The heater is grounded with the rest of the ground circuit of the tub. I verified that with a multimeter. The tub has no connection to the physical earth around it, so I would say it is not grounded.

I wanted to come back to this group and say THANKS! I replaced the o-ring at the wet-end, and then went to lunch.

Thanks for the advice! I read the dichlor/bleach method in the chemistry forum; that's a great writeup! I can follow those guidelines. Any place you'd recommend specifically to buy from?

I live in North Carolina, and I have a Leisure Bay G2 Spa. The cover I have is very heavy and water logged. It's still in fine shape because it gets very little sun, but due to the weight I need to replace it. The last cover I bought was from some random online vendor in Sept 2016 so I got about 3.5 years out of this one. We do have a lift assist (not a motor or anything) in case that matters. Who should I buy my next cover from? What features do you recommend? How thick? Any advice in this area for me? Thanks in advance!

All electrical components are connected to the ground coming from the circuit. That ground wire is correctly wired back to the ground bar on the outside disconnect, which is correctly wired to the ground bar in the main breaker. This was all verified with continuity tests with all power off. So if all ^ is true: * Would you agree this is sufficiently grounded? * Is this properly bonded? (I understand the concept of bonding, but it's not clear to me if I'm bonding the hot tub's electrical system to the ground wire of the circuit or *also* to the earth around the tub itself)

I have owned a Leisure Bay G2 for several years. It's been working great until a few weeks ago the water started giving a good shock whenever you put your finger in it. The GFCI does not trip. The root cause is the underwater light (there is only one). We never use the light, but the control board was still powering it. I believe the seal broke on it and now the water is electrified. The power was measured at 60Hz AC 0.76 mA and 20 Volts. It's quiet a shock. I disconnected the light from the control board and now the water does not shock. The circuit and spa are wired correctly including grounds at the main breaker, the outside disconnect GFCI, and to all components of the spa itself. Having it wired wrong is the most likely cause so this was fully investigated with electricians. The GFCI self-tests fine, it trips as expected each time and then can be reset. Note the GFCI is only expected to trip at 5mA so I'm not surprised this didn't trip it. The control board transformer is a 30274-2 and tests as working correctly according to these instructions https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Balboa/Testing_A_Balboa_Transformer.pdf. The transformer is a 30274-2 Source URL: https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/hot-tub-gfci-troubleshooting.185456/ Here are my questions: * Have you seen an underwater light create this much power in the water before and not trip a GFCI? * Does this seem like an unsafe design from Leisure Bay? * An electrician told me that because the transformer isolates the secondary light circuit from the main incoming AC power the GFCI mechanism couldn't detect the leakage anyway. Do you agree or disagree with this?

Will do! I have a heat gun so I can accomplish it. I believe this was a contributing problem to the first installation so I'll be paying close attention to it. Thanks again.

I ordered the 2" gaskets https://www.spadepot.com/Spa-Pump-Heater-O-Ring-Gasket-2in-2-Pack-P1559 Thanks for all the replies! I'm going to install these when they come in and then go to lunch.

Thank you to all the responses so far! Here is a correction from my original post; it is only leaking around the O-ring coupler, *not* from the PVC junction. See the new annotated photo for clarity. I've also included additional photos of the surrounding plumbing as asked. Since it leaks only from the top and bottom of the union, is replacing the O-ring what I should do? Do I replace just the O-ring or do I have to replace the union? How much should I tighten the union by rotating it? Last time I used a strap wrench. I don't mind the PVC work, but I can see how one junction could lead to another and another. I do want to do the job right, not a band-aid. Advice is appreciated! What do you think I should do?

I have a Leisure Bay G2 spa, and I've noticed some water leaking from the base when I power on the pumps. It comes from a specific spot so today I opened it up and here is what I found (see annotated pic and video). While the 2-speed motor is running, I can see a drip-leak coming from the pvc junction above the wet-end. Additionally, there is a drip-leak from the wet-end itself, but I think this is likely from drip above flowing down the wet-end and dripping underneath it. I replaced this pulp in early 2018 and the new wet-end came with it so I'd be surprised if the wet-end itself was leaking, but what do you think? I added an image annotated with where the leaks I observed came from. How do I fix this? Just tighten the PVC? Could the joint be too tight? As I remember it I used a strap wrench to do it last time? Are there O-rings or anything inside of here? Should I replace the union? What kind of parts would I buy? VID_20200425_144451.mp4