RDspaguy

Circ pump should be basically silent. Sounds like it's time for a new one.

Remove filters.

1) You need to add chlorine after each use. I use 1tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person after use. I also use nature2. I would recommend more chlorine without the silver ion of nature2. If your cya reaches 30, switch to bleach or plan your next drain and fill in the near future. I drain mine every 3 months. Yes, the ozone will get rid of excess chlorine as well as the combined chlorine from sanitation. This means no chemical odors or high chlorine level when you use it. It does not necessarily mean you use less chlorine, but can let you get away with using more. 2) PH stabilizer. I don't use it. 3) Alkalinity and PH are linked, and any change to one changes the other with the exception of aeration, which raises ph. Get your ph balanced and see where your alkalinity lands. In most cases you will be fine with that. Keep air controls closed when not in use to lessen ph rise from aeration. @waterbear, care to jump in here?

Sounds like a bad gfci cord. Do you have a multimeter? Test voltage to the spa, check fuses. Post a pic of the circuit board.

No heater and a single speed pump. Is this a spa or a bathtub?

I have had customers who do. No detergent or jet dry, or dirty dishes. Or a dirty dishwasher, for that matter. Blowing chunks of food into your filter will NOT help.

Well, there aren't many things that will cause pressure reduction as you describe it. Blockage, such as filters, leaves/debris in the skimmer or pump, excessive scale in equipment or pipes, or broken check valves. Post a pic of the equipment so we can see what you've got there. @jimmythegreek, @Pool Clown, any ideas?

If it is actually overheating the tub it is a faulty sensor or stuck relay on the circuit board. My money is on the relay. Post a pic of the circuit board.

I would get a different cover lift rather than screwing up my new cover.

Measure the spa right were you did in the pic. If you measure the cover and send those measurements your cover will be too big. Most cover manufacturers can build your cover with brand, model, and year of spa.

Post a pic of the equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. Does your heater have a manual high limit reset?

I suggest you search the chemistry section for "bromine" and "ph", and read a bit. Come back with any questions. Use Ahhsome spa plumbing cleaner on any new-to-you spa.

100 gallons a day, and you can't see a leak? 🤔 Open up the equipment area and check around in there. Most leaks are in the equipment. Post a pic so we know what you have in there. Make sure spa is not overfilled. Excessively high water level can create a siphon through the air controls and drain it out.

Read the sticky thread in the chemistry section on the dichlor/bleach method. There are many other posts regarding ph/alk issues. Please read a few and come back with any questions. Get a good test kit, strips are unreliable, as are pool stores who often use strips. Less is more in chemistry. If you don't need it, don't use it. Drain and refill every 3 months.

Well, that's because you are a snooty city boy with access to a wide variety of hardware options. Out in the boonies where I live, you are lucky to find putty, much less plasticweld, and have to use good old JB weld for almost everything. I can't even get Christie's red hot blue glue out here! Honestly, I am not a big fan of epoxy of any kind for plumbing repairs if there is another option.

Just leave it. I agree, central Illinois IS it's own country! 😉 I am from St. Louis originally, now in southern Mo.

Be sure to fill through the filter well to avoid air lock in the future.

Try removing the filters. If it stops, get new filters. If not, post a pic of your equipment area and circuit board.

Oh, it's one of those. It is wired for 5.5kw.

Pool chlorine is not going to have anything that might affect your spa. Laundry bleach may have a variety of different stuff in there, sometimes listed alongside hypochlorite sometimes not. I bought some cheap beach, not splashless or anything, just sodium hypochlorite listed, but it looked like I was doing dishes in my spa when I used it. Now I buy pool stuff only.

That manifold, with jets on and air control closed, is under a vacuum. I would sand it well around the joint, turn on jets and close air controls, then coat with primer followed by pvc glue after primer has dried. The goal is to draw the primer and glue into the gap with vacuum pressure, and seal it from the inside. Epoxy putty might do the trick if going on well sanded fittings.

Unless you can find something lodged in the waterfall, you will have to replace it. Getting to the lights will be the hardest part.

You cannot change the heater wattage without changing the heater element or voltage. Your heater is 5.5kww at 240v and 1.5kw at 120v.

Do your jets work as they should with the button? Remove filter. Check pump for debris in impeller. Switch the sensors at the plugs on the board. Test sensors with an ohm meter.

I was hoping @waterbearwould jump in here. He's the chemistry expert. Go to the chemistry section of the forum, or use the search tool, and read some of the threads about dichlor/bleach, ozone, ph, alkalinity, and such. Then come back with any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.