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RDspaguy

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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Don't wrap the pumps themselves, and don't cover any manufaturers vents, if there are any. Also, do not get it touching the electronic control box, this is much more sensitive to heat than the pumps.
  2. Remove your filters. If it stops, clean them with filter cleaner or get new filters. If it continues, it could be thermistors or the beginning of the end for your circulation pump.
  3. Do they have a service department? Did they schedule a service call to fix it, or are you on your own with your new bullfrog? I would raise a fuss. It looks to me like the whole thing probably screws on through the shell. That is a guess, I have not worked on that part before. I would hate to think it is epoxy. Either way, you should get them to cover it.
  4. If it's new it should be covered under warranty. Call your dealer. Did you buy from a local dealer?
  5. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.clearcreekspas.com/Manuals/10011.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjGg9ft1-XoAhXFZs0KHaocDqIQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw2exlRQK9e8NKVCSZOUZ2D1 This is all I can find on a pre-jacuzzi blueridge spa. I have also searched for a manufacturer of that control pack but have had no luck. As I said in your other thread, the control pack was probably built by blueridge themselves. It was common back then to do so, and many spas built that way have no wiring diagram available even if you can find the manual. Best of luck.
  6. Not much info available on that brand. In your pic, the display appears to have some moisture behind the glass. Is that right, or was it just a reflection? Can you post a pic of the equipment and control box so we can see what you have in there?
  7. If you go to the forum menu you will find a water chemistry forum. There is some good info there. A google search will bring up a whole lot more. There are many ways to maintain a spa, depending on what you are wanting. But basic sanitation and balance are the absolutely necessary goal of them all. They always sound more complicated than they are, and get easier once you are familiar with the method. Do some research, then come back and start a thread with your questions. Do not base your decision on what they left you.
  8. Try to engage the timer. Put half the tabs in and half out and turn it with the jets off. I am surprised they are using a second thermostat for overheat protection. But you never can tell with these old packs. That was probably built in-house at blueridge.
  9. Found this while searching someone else's problem. Nice summary, and it saves a bunch of typing. On older spas, when there was a blockage at the jet (for instance an acorn) the water flow would hit the blockage and reverse direction. The water would flow out of the air venturi as it was the path of least resistance. Remove the obstruction to re-establish water flow to the jet. This will also create the venturi effect and re-establish the air flow. Another common scenario for older hot tubs was the gaskets used to separate water and air would fail. When this happens, the water would come out of the air venturi. The repair calls for the gaskets to be replaced or new jets need to be installed. With your style of jet, pieces of the jet itself may be the blockage.
  10. This is what a google search brought up. http://www.spaparts123.net/Manuals/KeysBackyardSpaManuals.html Don't know if that helps.
  11. Wish I could. But if you start a new thread it may catch the notice of more people. A question with 30 answers already will be passed over by many here.
  12. That was just an in-general statement. I have worked for one HS authorized service center, but didn't see many there and it was usually nothing that I needed to call for. As an independant, they won't talk to me. Even though the local dealer gave my number to out of warranty customers. So I always had to figure it out myself. No big deal, that's what I do. But it might be why I don't like working on watkins, even though I owned one for 2 years. Loved that Caldera.
  13. It is tecnically called a contactor, but it is essentially a relay. The screw terminals are line (power in) and load (power out), and the lower spade terminals are the coil. When voltage is applied to the coil, the contacts close and put power to the load, in this case a heater. The contactor wired to the heater is usually controlled by the thermostat, pressure switch, and sometimes hi-limit which allow voltage to the coil. The red round thing is a timer. Typically for low speed pump filtration, but could also control heat. So it could be that the thermostat AND the timer must be on to heat. The hi-limit in the pack must have a reset. See if you can get a finger to the back side of it and feel a inch long button a little smaller than a pencil. Or pull it to check by removing the 2 screws on the left outside of the box.
  14. Yeah, that guy hasn't logged in since april 2013. He is not going to get your message.
  15. You are trying to reach someone from 2012. They may not even be on this forum anymore. Few people are going to respond to an old thread with 30 posts, so you may be better off starting a new thread.
  16. 🤣 You too, brother.
  17. No power on the line, load, or coil of the relay? Troubleshooting this is going to be a process. This is no self-diagnosing digital control, it is hardwired. I cannot find any scematic or ladder diagram on it, so am not sure how it is wired. And there are many ways it could be wired. Is there a wiring diagram on the control box cover? I have not seen one of this brand in a good decade, though I started in this business in '95 and spent my first decade working mostly on these hardwired packs. The easiest way to test a pressure switch is to disconnect the wires and test for continuity or resistance (ohms) while the pump is on. Be careful, that is 120v on those wires and may not be gfci protected so this could be destructive to your equipment or deadly to you if those wires touch anything. I can give you a safer way if I have a diagram or can trace the wires. Yes. Is it running in low with the thermostat?
  18. So the pump does not run in low speed? When the heat light is on, you still have no voltage at the heater?
  19. I rather enjoy it when you ask a dumb question. It happens so rarely... It's like a treat or something. I can picture you slapping yourself on the forehead like an old V-8 commercial, you know the ones.
  20. Pressure switch is the round thing on the heater tube with 2 wires. These go bad frequently. It should have continuity, 0 ohms, no voltage between the wires when the pump is on low and the thermostat is turned up. I still do not see the hi-limit reset, but it has to be there. This is the most likely cause of it not heating. Find it and push the button.
  21. These have a blower as well if I am not mistaken, which could also cause an immediate trip and could have been shorted by overfilling if the check valve is bad, which it is if it hasn't been replaced. A flooded ozonator can also cause it, but that would have been an option for that tub so he may not have one.
  22. Nope, not a function stepper, but air switches on closer inspection. On the bottom of the pic, which would be the left as it sits, is a component with 2 white wires with blue connectors. On the back of the pack it has a button sticking out. This is your hi-limit. Press this button. Or it has a dial on the side and is a thermostat, make sure it is on. Make sure the thermostat in the topside control is also on. Does the topside control have indicator lights for heating, ready, jets, or such? Is it showing heating? In the heater is a pressure switch. Make sure it is closing the circuit when the pump is on. I can't trace the wiring from the pic to tell, but that system may not heat with the jets on high. Be sure jets are on low when testing heater. Is there a loud or quiet buzzing noise?
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