RDspaguy

That is a tec-mark control and the problem is not the sensor, but the dial thermostat circuit board or a relay on the main circuit board. They are voltage specific, so you will need to determine the voltage or remove it and get the part number. There are 4 screws in the corners under the sticker that hold it in place. The sensor is built in and connot be replaced. https://spacare.com/tecmarktopsidecontrols.aspx Turn off power and unplug the heater, then test the heater relays (bottom 2 on right) for continuity between the metal tabs on the front of the relay. They should be open (not continuous). If they have continuity they are bad, but it is unlikely that both have failed. It is most likely the topside.

I do not see 2 wet ends. I see vent hoses to a specialty motor cover, and one is unhooked. Is there another pump in there you didn't picture? Just get a standard executive 56 or comparable pump and forget the vent hose, you don't need it. Or better yet, bring that one to a motor shop and get it rebuilt. Probably won't be much more than $100.

@CanadianSpaTech I am also thinking fuses, but I want a look at the board. Have you worked on many Vita spas? For a while, I am not sure when they started or if they stopped, Vita used proprietary controls that have a control cable and a comm cable and logic circuits in the topside as well as the main board. So the topside is a second circuit board, not just a display and buttons. Huge PITA to troubleshoot, I carried around spare everything for testing as you can't figure out what it is doing what without plugging in parts. Completely unlike any other system I have ever seen. I worked for a dealer in Boulder for a couple of years. Hated those tubs, even more than Gecko, and you know how I feel about Gecko. Thankfully they didn't sell very many so I only had to work on a couple dozen in my time there.

Ok. Now post a pic of the topside. The thing with the buttons. Once I fugure out the brand I can determine if there is a sensor available. But I still doubt it is the sensor. Do you have an electrical tester?

No, but it's probably not cheap.

Post a pic of your equipment and control box with the cover off.

No, that is a sundance sensor. Your sensor goes to your topside controller. Post a pic of the topside so I can see which one it is.

Yes. The part that the hose goes on and the clamp tightens against. They are prone to cracking where they connect to the flat bottom of the waterfall, and would require replacement of the waterfall. Clamped hoses don't often leak.

Sounds like an airlock. Did you fill through the filter well? Try putting a hose in the filter pipe and block off around it with a towel or your hand to force out the air.

Post a pic of the control pack with the cover off/ open. I am not sure the sensor is the issue. Could be a stuck relay. Let me see what you've got in there. Never seen a sensor glued in, but it may be caulked. Worst case is you break it getting it out, but you are replacing it anyway.

The topside is just buttons and a display. Worst that will happen is the buttons will work the wrong things, light button adjusts temp and such.

Hopefully that is it and it's not a cracked barb. Be careful moving that pipe or it will be a cracked barb.

Post pics of the waterfall front and back, and a close up of it leaking.

I am not sure of the best way, but blocks would undoubtedly be cheaper. And much lighter so less chance of shifting or settling.

Floaters are bad, mmm-kay?😂 Seriously, read the dichlor/ bleach method at the beginning of the spa water chemistry forum. Tablets are bad, floaters are worse. It doesn't take much to pour in a dollop of bleach after every time you use it, and a few times a week otherwise. Tablets destroy equipment and maybe even your inflatable spa.

Get a higher density foam with moisture barrier. Leave your cover off for 30 minutes after adding chemicals. Get rid of your floater and read about the dichlor/ bleach method in the spa water chemistry forum.

Before you go changing dips, what is the amp rating of your breaker? If it is not at least 40 amps, leave the dips alone.

And where is the fuse? There should be a 30amp fuse in the f5 fuse holder above the white wires.

Move the white wire by the pump 1 plug to the "red ac" terminals, where there is currently only one white wire connected, as shown in the wiring diagram.

I am no pool builder, but I am sure an 8" wall would be more than sufficient to contain the water feature and its plumbing. If you want it wider than that, that is a matter of choice. Build it as wide as you would like.

Hey Danny. You will get more responses if you start your own thread. A thread with this many responses may be overlooked by those currently on this forum. Just some friendly advice. For starters, remove your filters and see if it clears up.

I would say it is wired for 120v. Right beside the pump 1 plug is a white wire that comes off the board and goes either to the neutral terminals or the red phase terminals. Check this wire and confirm it goes to the same set of terminals as the one from the pump 2 plug.

Keep your personal problems to yourself, pal.😏

No, they've got you too, buddy.😁

For me it's pretty normal, but I have a 7 year old who loves to splash and play for hours. Loss depends on use.