CanadianSpaTech

OP.. Did it come wired like that?

@cranbiz Yeah pretty sure Stevie Wonder is not going to see this post 👁️👁️ 🤣

Interested to see why the incoming power wires are connected directly to the board like that.

Sounds a little high to me for a smaller 79" tub. What brand of spa? How old is it? How old is the cover? Does it have a circulation pump or does it use a main pump for heating and filtering? Where are you located? Post pics of where the spa is currently located in your yard and I'm sure we can make some recommendations to help lower your monthly costs. Main concern with that type of enclosure would be controlling moisture and condensation.

https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Balboa/BP7_Owners_Manual.PDF

unlikely If it is blowing the main breaker and not the GFCI outside I would go through all the wiring connections from inside panel all the way to the pack and make sure there are no loose ground or neutral connections

0 Make sure all jets are open. Remove filter until issue is fixed. Take them out of the equation. Turn off all air injection valves.

Get the circ out so you can have it in front of you. Open the back up and see if there is any rust or bad connections. You will likely have to swap it out. Shop around for best price on a Laing e 14. Verify 120V or 230V before ordering.

If freezing is not an issue you could disconnect the heater from the circuit board and then just run circulation. Important to maintain chemicals and cycle the main pumps a couple of times a week to clear out the lines. While the cabinet is open you could tuck a small tip proof thermostatically controlled space heater set on 750W med low inside with the cord hanging out so you can plug it in for a few hours when temps go low. Being temp controlled you can set it at a very low setting and it won't cost a lot. Just to keep the chill out. I have had a flip spa not running while waiting for parts with just a space heater inside on low without issue and it has been -20C here for the past 2 weeks. The water will have to maintain above a certain temp so it won't go into freeze protection and run the pumps non stop. Clod plunge spas are all the rage... I dare ya...lol In the Spring run a plumbing purge using Ahh-Some or similar product to remove any organics from the pipes.

You are good. Did you buy just the circuit board or entire pack? If you bought the entire pack dip switch settings are on inside cover. See bottom half of page 5 here: https://www.elmsalesandequipment.com/ELM_Catalogue_2023.pdf Use these dip switch settings: https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Balboa/VS501Z.PDF

Every spa will have different results. To many varying factors. If you have a non circ system and the spa runs 2- 2 hour filter cycles a day I would run the spa in Econo mode. Usually the filter cycle start time is determined when you flip the breaker on. Then the second cycle 10 hours later after the first cycle ends. In Econo mode the 10 hour period in between filter cycles if the temp drops the heater will NOT bring the water temp back up to the set/desired temp until the next filter cycle has begun. Once the filter cycle starts if there has been 2 degrees or more of heat loss it will then run the heater for a short period of time and bring it back up to the set temp. If you have a typical pattern of use and like to go into your spa each night at 8pm then reset the breaker at 6 am or pm. That way when you go out to the spa at 8pm it has run the 2 hour filtering/heating cycle and the spa is at your desired temp. Turn off air injection jets and water features when not in use. The system draws cooler air from inside the cabinet and can have a cooling effect when not in use. If you ever need to replace the cover go 6"-4" thick and has an end to end center steam seal and a long (5") side skirt. Like your home most heat loss is through the roof. If your spa has side vents in the cabinet to cool the pumps you might want to consider restricting them in the Winter months. Add rockwool insulation to any voids inside the spa... leaving enough room for the pumps to breath. Enjoy

Not a Hot Springs guy but some spas have a ball valve located inside the cabinet just under the waterfall. Waterfalls are such a useless feature and usually cause more trouble then pleasure. JMO

Might want to post this in the inflatable section of this forum... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/forum/28-inflatable-hot-tubs/

No such thing...lol. I was just being lazy. You said what needed to be said. More of a wine drinker...lol

Please start your own thread and post the pics

Free hot tubs are never free

They can be opened up. The hardest part is getting the female pump connections through the housing to get the board out. They will come out with the board (see video below). If you can get the board out have a look at the capacitors and see if any are bulging. Look on the back for darkened or burnt areas. See post by Sebast about capacitors... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53524-gecko-inxe-spa-pack-stuck-in-boot-up-low-voltage-power-supply/#comment-208142 Verify that you have correct power coming into the board. 120V white to black 120 white to red and 240v red to black. If you have correct power then the issue is likely down stream of that... Board or topside. Look at the capacitor to see if it is damaged and not sending correct power to the topside. Did Gecko verify that the topside is compatible? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIhCsvuqCpc Where are you located?

Unless you are going to blow out all the lines and Winterize the spa not a good idea. A full tub will take longer to freeze. Up to you but I use small space heaters all the time while waiting for parts. They are tip proof and thermostatically controlled. Usually in some tight places. They will only run when needed once it is warm in there. Again only need a med low to low setting. Enough to keep the chill out. Use on 750V setting. Hopefully you can get it figured out.

Small space heater inside the cabinet on med low will keep it from freezing and cracking plumbing. Please do not work beyond your capabilities. If you are unsure at anytime please call a professional. In the left hand side of where the power wires connect to the board do you get 120V white to red, 120V white to black? do you get 240V red to black?. If you do then same test on the other side of that same connection on the right side to test for power coming out of that block. Power in left power out right side to make sure the incoming wires are connected and making proper contact. Follow the red and black at the Philips screws where the wires connect to the "fingers" of the circuit board at top of photo Test the red and black wire coming from the main power block. Do you get 240v? Then test the second (yellow) set of screws. Basically follow the power. If you get this far you have confirmed power to the board. Try and disconnect (power off) the topside phone jack from the board and see if it will run automated without the topside connected. At this point you might want to pull the board and look on the back for darkened or burnt areas on the back. Post results

@ 15 years I'm replacing it.

First get a small space heater inside on med low to keep the chill out. Do you have a multi meter to test for power where the power wires connect to the board. Of you have power going to the pack test all glass fuses. Take them out of the holder to test. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover.

Power off.. Try and disconnect the topside from the board and see if it will run automated Does the spa have a heater? Some don't. While you have the spa pack open look for any obvious damage to the board Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have. Might have to get a small space heater in there on low just to keep the chill out if the temp gets lower.

Personally I'm buying a new one. Heaters are a wear item and that one looks pretty worn. How old is it?

First post photos of the board and the schematic on the inside cover. Remove filters. Next disconnect pump 2 from the board and see if it will run and heat. Use a multi meter and with #2 pump disconnected test for power going to the pump off the board when you engage pump 2. Test where the white and black wires connect. If you get power off the board then power down and reconnect. If it trips you likely have a bad pump. If it still trips with pump 2 disconnected then start eliminating the other components in the spa one at a time until the breaker holds. Post pics and results.

Post photos of the current board and how it is wired.