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CanadianSpaTech
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Posts posted by CanadianSpaTech
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12 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Wet, constant heat, chemicals, ozone.. it's a very harsh environment. Anything you use would likely end up in the water.
303 on pillows... If you are ok with bathing in it then go for it.
If you are going to use any protectant on any surface..
12 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:If using a protectant on the cover use it sparingly and just spray it on a rag and not directly on the cover or it can migrate into the water during rain.
9 hours ago, Davekro said:I see the recommendation for leaving cover off/open for at least 30-mins after adding Shock treatment. That seems very clear.
Cover half open for 1 full 15 min cycle is my norm. If shocking with a heavy dose to clear a cloudy spa then longer.
As for adding chemicals after each use... I tend to wait until the next day if I don't want to go back out to close it up... and I never do...lol.
When you open your cover don't breath in. Give it a few seconds to off gas before sticking your nose in there otherwise you might get a nose full of chemical and ozone. No fun getting a nose full of chemicals.
Reality is most covers have a 3-5 year lifespan.. pillows... 4-6. Like heater elements, pump seals and the tires on your car they are wear items and will need to be replaced at some point.
JMO
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7 hours ago, Davekro said:
a spray on material to re-coat old headrests to make them look better. Not just a surface 'treatment' like Armorall,
Wet, constant heat, chemicals, ozone.. it's a very harsh environment. Anything you use would likely end up in the water.
Pillows 4-6 years and will likely grey/white sooner. "Premium" or regulars
If using a protectant on the cover use it sparingly and just spray it on a rag and not directly on the cover or it can migrate into the water during rain.
Blog post from Bullfrog suggests: Regularly clean all hot tub headrests with mild soap, water, and a clean cloth. Monthly, treat headrests using a non petroleum-based conditioning product such as 303 aerospace protectant, or as recommended by your Bullfrog Spas dealer. This will maintain the water resistance and luster of the product.
https://www.bullfrogspas.com/blog/cleaning-protecting-hot-tub-headrests/
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Made by Correct Tech in Canada. Look here under Technical Support and also Schematics. If you have questions contact Kiersten at their 1-888 number. She will help you out. http://www.correct-tech.com/support.php
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Disconnect J15, 16 and 17 and try. If it still trips remove the board and look on the back for any damage. When removing the board disconnect everything but J5 and 6 and try. Does it trip?
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19 hours ago, Gary_C said:
Is it possible I can access and repair from INSIDE tub?
There is a gasket seal that sits in between the jet body and the acrylic that can decay over time. Run a bead of (I use GE marine grade silicone) silicone around each Jet or the light to create a barrier so that water can't get between the jet body and the acrylic.
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/78934/Jacuzzi-Premium-J-325.html?page=34#manual
Start at the beginning and follow the power... Disconnect the main power going to the pack at TB1 and see if it holds.
Next disconnect all 6 connections along bottom edge. Does it hold? Then connect the 2 on the left j5 j6 does it hold?
Then the next 2 J7 J8 Does it hold?
Post photos of the newly installed GFCI so we can see how it is wired.
Post results.
At some point you may want to pull the board and look on the back for darkened or burnt areas
Before you swapped the breaker would the GFCI hold but just nothing happens?
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Start by disconnecting the heater (most common cause for a trip) J9 and J10 from the board and see if breaker holds.
Post result.
Do you have a multi meter and knowledge of how to use it to test for power?
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35 minutes ago, GreenEnvy22 said:
so I take it that's the capacitor.
Could be yes.
36 minutes ago, GreenEnvy22 said:and we'll see if anyone uses it.
You have children it will get used if you ask them. If kids under 6 years old keep below 98 degrees
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8 hours ago, GreenEnvy22 said:
Any ideas? I was thinking this looks right:
Tape measure will help.
Even if you can't find the cover there should be a square basket that slides in over the filter. Do what you can.
Try taking an overhead photo and use google image search you might get lucky and find mote info.
https://spadepot.com/products/waterway-square-skim-filter-basket-bx9892
I get the idea of wanting to try hot tubbing before spending big on a spa. I understand you are already into it fairly deep. You picked a pretty rough starting point. I caution you against spending to much on this one. You might get into adding one part after another and another. In the end you could end up ruining your experience. If you start adding up what it is going to cost to get it running... new pump, cover?... etc you might be better off finding a cheap RUNNING spa online. You can find decent buys under 3k that you could resell a year or 2 down the line when you are ready (or not). That one you will not get anything.
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You have only removed half the wet end. The half that is still connected is where the impeller will often lock into the seal. Keep going. If you get the wet end completely off and still can't spin the shaft then likely the front bearing is shot and needs to be replaced.
20 minutes ago, GreenEnvy22 said:So assuming I need to replace it, this is a 120V, 2 speed motor. I'd need the same thing, right?
match the hi and low AMP draw and make sure it has the same wet end
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Is it mode related? Are you in "Standard (st). Economy (eco) or sleep (SL) mode?. In economy mode it will only heat the water back up to the set temp during the filter cycle normally set at 2 hours 2X per day AM /PM. The 10 hours in between filter cycles if there has been heat loss it won't turn the heater on until the next filter cycle starts. Push temp up in between filter cycles it will override the ECO mode and start to heat. St will keep it at the set point always. SL will wait until spa temp gets down to 80 and maintain 80 degrees.
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If I have to guess I'm throwing a sensor set at it. I would fill a cup up with hot spa water and plugging in a new sensor set and placing the probes in the water cup to test before swapping... But easy for me as I have them on my truck.
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Just back them off a turn or 2 or until they don't make vibration.
What is the spa sitting on? Wood deck might require it to be placed on rubber horse mats. So many stories of neighbours (and owners) driven crazy from the hum. Be a good neighbour...lol
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12 hours ago, GreenEnvy22 said:
Is that a possibility on a spa pump too?
yes. Remove the dust cap at back of motor and use a slotted screwdriver and see if it spins. If locked in place it is likely in need of a rebuild. Usually just the seal and impeller but you will have to check the front bearing once you get the wet end off. In most cases the impeller splits and locks itself into the seal. If it has been leaking water can run down the shaft and also take out the bearing.
12 hours ago, GreenEnvy22 said:Also could be the start capacitor, I'll check that too.
Could be. Spin the shaft while it is trying to start.
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Small space heater on medium low inside the cabinet will prevent freezing.
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7 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Disconnect the heater from the board and lift the 2 copper tabs up so they don't touch anything then verify you get 240V off the 2 copper tabs when the heat indicator light on the topside is solid and not flickering.
Follow above. Turn the temp up so the heat light goes solid and test... Do you get 240V? Then turn the temp down 5 degrees and wait until the temp light goes off then test. Do you still get 240V? If you get 240v with the heat light off you have a stuck heater relay (and may be why the first one failed) If you don't then likely the issue is elsewhere. What do you have your filter cycle set at for duration and frequency? Filter cycle set for to long and the pump running longer than it should can heat the water above the set point. Relays can be replaced
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12 hours ago, Tom 7506 said:
I found the tub at 109°
Was the water actually at 109?
When you installed the heater element did you look down the tube and ensure the element was centered in the tube and not touching the sides.
12 hours ago, Tom 7506 said:I clamped both power lines to the heater and found one line running 120v at 12 amps. The other line had no voltage.
Disconnect the heater from the board and lift the 2 copper tabs up so they don't touch anything then verify you get 240V off the 2 copper tabs when the heat indicator light on the topside is solid and not flickering. If you don't get 240V then you likely have a blown heater relay. Remove the board and have a look on the back for bark or burnt areas around the relays.
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First verify White to red 120v white to black 120v red to black 240v. Test and verify the F4 glass fuse. It powers the board. Take it out to test. Test the large buss fuse (sc25 or sc30 on it) It powers the pump. Verify W1 goes to the white AC bank (top left). This bank is for 120v components and you have a 120v pump. Red AC is for 240v components. If you have correct power going into the pack and all fuses test good then try and disconnect the topside and see if it will run automated. Might take about 5 mins to run through the purge stage before anything happen. At some point you may have to remove the board and look on the back for dark or burnt areas.
Verify the white wire coming from the spa goes into the GFCI breaker and not connected to the neutral bar. Only the white pigtail off the GFCI goes to the neutral bar.
12 hours ago, GreenEnvy22 said:Can I do any testing without filling the tub back up?
Yes. I will usually disconnect the heater.
Heater element looks rusted and will likely have to be replaced at some point. See below.
You can test for 240v at the 2 copper tabs during testing if needed.
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7 hours ago, tractorclub said:
Balboa Hot tub it has a BF75 controller
Not familiar with that pack/system.
What brand of hot tub?
Please post photos of the circuit board, topside controller and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is set up.
Sounds like you may have a stuck pump relay.
C1... 1 cycle per day, c2... 2 cycles per day.
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Post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover
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Sounds like bad sensors to me. Try unplugging just one and see if you get an SN A or B error. Try Test Mode. See below. Power off before changing dip switches.
Google: Troubleshooting & Service for EL/VS Systems
Put the spa in test mode with the light on, so that you see the two sensor temperatures. Are they normal (within 1°F/0.5°C) when not heating? How far apart are ...
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Post photos
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OP.. Did it come wired like that?
Help identifying correct replacement impeller
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
12amp high speed would likely be 4hp. Post pics of wet end and also entire pump. What brand of spa is it out of?
Remove the wet end and post photos