CanadianSpaTech

Sure or a skid might work. Jack stands are also used in some cases.

See page 32 here for both the blue snubber(Varistor) and the terminal block: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

@Spa Board Doctor

Couple of pics of what you have might help us with recommendations. Is it wood and if so how thick is it? There are all kinds of portable "Bubblers" made for bathtubs and such. What are your expectations? If you just want the water to move you could even just place a drain pump without the garden hose attached in the foot well and it will move water. Whatever you decide make sure it is GFCI protected.

no I think board is likely still good. I would be going back over all the wiring connections. Where do you have the white wire coming back from the spa and into the GFCI? It must go into the GFCI itself and then the pigtail goes to the Neutral bar or it will trip. Could also be a bad ground somewhere. Dip switch setting should not matter with a tripping GFCI and can be sorted out once you get the breaker to hold. No Problem. I'm just West of Milton. You can PM phone number if you need to speak directly.

Usually the front bearing... or something got past the filter and is stuck in the wet end.

https://www.spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/balboa/54340.pdf Start back at the beginning... Disconnect the heater first then each component until it holds. How's the GFCI look. What size/amp is the GFCI? A2,3 on A4 off A5 off A6 off (North America ?) A7 on, A8 Choose A9 on, A10 off Again 120V components need the white "W" wires to go to White AC... 240V components the white "W" wire needs to go to Red AC. Example 240V pump 1 the W1 (white) wire goes to red AC. If your circ is rated 120V White W2 goes to white AC and so on

Takes 120 or 240V off the board and steps it down to 12V dc. Usually only the stereo runs off it. If plugged into board it should have 2 lights on it to show it is receiving and sending power to the stereo. If you don't want to use stereo just disconnect it from the circuit board.

Buy a quick drain

In photo with rusty heater tube you have 3 white wires going to White AC for 120V components and 2 going to red AC for 240V components. One of the white wires needs to move from Red Ac to White AC

Have you tested the large green buss (SC30) fuses? If pump 2 runs swap places with the fuses and see if the pump 1 now runs and pump 2 does not.

Plastics will fade. Fact of life IMO. Stainless steel won't rust but the mineral hardness in the water will sit on top of the SS and will rust. Quick wipe with a soft scrubby and it should wipe away.

Post pics of what you are dealing with

Video unavailable. Might find some information here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf first remove filters for testing. Remove them from the equation. I would test all fuses I would be looking at the sensors if fuses all good. There is a sensor recall by Sundance/Jacuzzi. What year/month was your spa made? https://www.jacuzzi.com/en-ca/recall.html

Does the spa have Ozone? The air space between the top of the water and the underside of the cover is a harsh and nasty place with chlorine/bromine and ozone "Off gas fumes" that get trapped when the cover is closed. Make sure to leave the cover open for at least 1 full 15 min cycle before closing the cover after adding chemicals. Never breath in when opening the cover. Give it a few seconds for any gases to escape before sticking your face in there. Nothing worse then getting a nose full of chemical and ozone. If your plastics are bleaching it is not uncommon. See it with almost every brand made.

Is the heat indicator light lit? Is there power to the heater with it off? If you drop temp by 5 degrees does the light go off after a min or 2? If you raise the temp back above actual temp does the light come back on? Remove filter when testing

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired up. Did you set the "dip" switches correctly and set it to run with a circ pump for heating and filtering?

What is your filter cycle duration set at? Should read F2. If it is set at say F8 it will run 16 hours a day. The first preset filter cycle begins 6 minutes after the spa is energized. The second preset filter cycle begins 12 hours later. Filter duration is programmable for 2, 4, 6, or 8 hours or for continuous filtration (indicated by FC ). The default filter time is 2 hours for non-circ systems and 4 hours for circ systems.

https://hottubspasource.com/products/cmp-aquastorm-3-hp-pump Says a PS 200 should work. CMP... https://www.c-m-p.com/spa-products/accessories/spa-pump/pump-wet-end/ https://www.hottuboutpost.com/cmp-wet-end-pump-seal-5-8-shaft-27203-000-990/

Will it go solid after a min or 2? Should flicker for a min then go solid and engage the heater.

See if you can find something here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf

Have you contacted Dynasty Tech support? Have you contacted Halco directly?

Here would be the test to find the bad relay. (After you replace burnt black wire connecting the 2 relays) With power to the board and heat light solid place one probe on the left coper heater relay and the other on the open tab on the top black relay... do you get 240? next test at where the black wire connects to the top relay... do you get 240? next test where the black wire connects to the bottom relay.. do you get 240? then test the open tab on the bottom relay... do you get 240V. Follow the power and where it ends is where the bad relay is. You can do all that but in reality I would be replacing both of the relays. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiQBBHtejMA&t=294s

Is the spa wired 120V or 240V? If 240V do you get 240V at the 2 heater terminals? Post photos of the circuit board and schematic on the inside cover. Also make sure the spa is set to Std (Standard) mode and not set in ECN (Economy) or SLP (sleep) modes

Enjoy