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CanadianSpaTech

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Everything posted by CanadianSpaTech

  1. Test the 2 green buss fuses that say SC25 or SC 30 on them. Does the heating/filtering related pump run in low or the circ pump if it has one? Test the incoming power and make sure you have 240V red to black and did not lose a leg in the gfci when it took the hit.
  2. Did you install the new flow switch in the right direction? When the circ is running the toggle in the flow switch should get pushed up against the post making a connection. Verify that it is making the connection. if it is making the connection but you still have a flo error you could try to jumper the flow switch but you will need to verify that the circ is flowing water.. or disconnect the heater from the board for testing so if the heater engages and there is a flow issue it won't go nuclear (only takes a split second to get really hot). I recommend disconnecting the heater for testing. Is the new circ the same voltage as the original? (120V or 240V) Next I would be looking at and testing the sensors. See page 55 below for resistance chart You might find help here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf
  3. @ydragos Please start your own post and describe your issue and post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover
  4. Sure or a skid might work. Jack stands are also used in some cases.
  5. See page 32 here for both the blue snubber(Varistor) and the terminal block: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf
  6. Couple of pics of what you have might help us with recommendations. Is it wood and if so how thick is it? There are all kinds of portable "Bubblers" made for bathtubs and such. What are your expectations? If you just want the water to move you could even just place a drain pump without the garden hose attached in the foot well and it will move water. Whatever you decide make sure it is GFCI protected.
  7. no I think board is likely still good. I would be going back over all the wiring connections. Where do you have the white wire coming back from the spa and into the GFCI? It must go into the GFCI itself and then the pigtail goes to the Neutral bar or it will trip. Could also be a bad ground somewhere. Dip switch setting should not matter with a tripping GFCI and can be sorted out once you get the breaker to hold. No Problem. I'm just West of Milton. You can PM phone number if you need to speak directly.
  8. Usually the front bearing... or something got past the filter and is stuck in the wet end.
  9. https://www.spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/balboa/54340.pdf Start back at the beginning... Disconnect the heater first then each component until it holds. How's the GFCI look. What size/amp is the GFCI? A2,3 on A4 off A5 off A6 off (North America ?) A7 on, A8 Choose A9 on, A10 off Again 120V components need the white "W" wires to go to White AC... 240V components the white "W" wire needs to go to Red AC. Example 240V pump 1 the W1 (white) wire goes to red AC. If your circ is rated 120V White W2 goes to white AC and so on
  10. Takes 120 or 240V off the board and steps it down to 12V dc. Usually only the stereo runs off it. If plugged into board it should have 2 lights on it to show it is receiving and sending power to the stereo. If you don't want to use stereo just disconnect it from the circuit board.
  11. In photo with rusty heater tube you have 3 white wires going to White AC for 120V components and 2 going to red AC for 240V components. One of the white wires needs to move from Red Ac to White AC
  12. Have you tested the large green buss (SC30) fuses? If pump 2 runs swap places with the fuses and see if the pump 1 now runs and pump 2 does not.
  13. Plastics will fade. Fact of life IMO. Stainless steel won't rust but the mineral hardness in the water will sit on top of the SS and will rust. Quick wipe with a soft scrubby and it should wipe away.
  14. Video unavailable. Might find some information here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf first remove filters for testing. Remove them from the equation. I would test all fuses I would be looking at the sensors if fuses all good. There is a sensor recall by Sundance/Jacuzzi. What year/month was your spa made? https://www.jacuzzi.com/en-ca/recall.html
  15. Does the spa have Ozone? The air space between the top of the water and the underside of the cover is a harsh and nasty place with chlorine/bromine and ozone "Off gas fumes" that get trapped when the cover is closed. Make sure to leave the cover open for at least 1 full 15 min cycle before closing the cover after adding chemicals. Never breath in when opening the cover. Give it a few seconds for any gases to escape before sticking your face in there. Nothing worse then getting a nose full of chemical and ozone. If your plastics are bleaching it is not uncommon. See it with almost every brand made.
  16. Is the heat indicator light lit? Is there power to the heater with it off? If you drop temp by 5 degrees does the light go off after a min or 2? If you raise the temp back above actual temp does the light come back on? Remove filter when testing
  17. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired up. Did you set the "dip" switches correctly and set it to run with a circ pump for heating and filtering?
  18. What is your filter cycle duration set at? Should read F2. If it is set at say F8 it will run 16 hours a day. The first preset filter cycle begins 6 minutes after the spa is energized. The second preset filter cycle begins 12 hours later. Filter duration is programmable for 2, 4, 6, or 8 hours or for continuous filtration (indicated by FC ). The default filter time is 2 hours for non-circ systems and 4 hours for circ systems.
  19. https://hottubspasource.com/products/cmp-aquastorm-3-hp-pump Says a PS 200 should work. CMP... https://www.c-m-p.com/spa-products/accessories/spa-pump/pump-wet-end/ https://www.hottuboutpost.com/cmp-wet-end-pump-seal-5-8-shaft-27203-000-990/
  20. Will it go solid after a min or 2? Should flicker for a min then go solid and engage the heater.
  21. See if you can find something here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf
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