ratchett

As CST said, the model won't really help you find much info about your spa. It's a Coast spa which uses generic off-the-shelf components, they don't really use anything proprietary (unlike Jacuzzi and Watkins) If you're trying to find an owner's manual, don't bother - they're basically useless filled with legal BS and a few diagrams showing which air and diverter knobs control which jets in the tub. You'll get much more useful information by simply posting some photos and asking your question directly to this group

There aren't too many Hotspring technicians lurking this forum, and to protect intellectual property, Watkins/Hotspring does not disclose technical service documents, wiring diagrams, or plumbing diagrams with end-users. They want you to work with an authorized service technician (via your local Hotspring dealer) to service the spa (both for IP and liability reasons). That said, I know there is a "Hot Spring Spas Customer Group" over on Facebook which has a few technicians and dealers. I would post your photo and question over on that group and see if anyone can help

Ozone does not build up in the water - it flows through and bubbles up to the surface (this is why many brands vent the ozone gas into the bottom of the footwell so the ozone gas has more time to travel through the water as it bubbles up). Too high output of ozone gas can actually cause damage to components with the cover closed. In general, ozonators work best when paired with a circulation pump to continuously inject ozone into the water. However I would not advise that with your setup for several reasons. I would focus on setting filter cycles based on usage of the tub and advise from the dealer - don't go crazy running the filter for 8+ hours twice a day. The ozonator is beneficial, but in your setup I would treat it as if it wasn't really there or doing much of anything.

Saltwater is awesome from a sales standpoint - most novice buyers assume saltwater means chlorine free, not aware that the system is generating chlorine from the sodium chloride in the water. The reality is that saltwater does have it's pros and cons. And yes, things can become corrosive if you don't maintain the water, but any care routine can become corrosive and damage the spa if used incorrectly. Fortunately you're not stuck with any care routine with hotspring - you can always switch to or from the salt system (there is a generic aftermarket saltwater system you can add to most any hot tub, but Hotspring/Caldera has a nice integration with the topside controller to give you more feedback/control over the salt system). The funny thing is not all dealers are created equal - there are plenty of benefits to every hot tub - why are the other dealers so interested in trashing another brand? Back when I was buying my Hotspring Highlife spa from a small family run dealership, my sales rep refused to trash Jacuzzi or any other brand (despite my encouragement lol) - there's always plenty of pros for each brand. Personally, I opted to skip the Hotspring saltwater system in favor of an ozonator & silver mineral cartridge hooked to a circulation pump - my care routine utilizes less chlorine when soaking in the tub and costs 1/5th as much in annual operating costs. Note: One thing they forget to mention about the salt system is that the cells cost $100+ and only available from your local dealer - they are supposed to last four months, but high phosphate levels (which come from skin moisturizers, soapy suds on bathing suits, fertilizers on grass carried into tub via the feet, etc) can kill a salt cell in as little as four weeks. Personally, it wasn't worth the hassle - although I can always call my dealer and have the salt system enabled if I wanted.

1) try to restart remote the easy way: Press hold the top corner (where the battery icon is located) for 10+ seconds - the remote should reboot itself and try to re-connect to the spa. 2) Remove battery from back of remote (don't lose any screws!) - turn off power to spa for 30 seconds, then power back up. After a minute, install battery into remote, and see if it connects. If neither of those two options work, check to confirm that the charging dock lights are not blinking (very dim lights on the buttons so its hard to see in daylight) - if the lights on the buttons on the charging dock are blinking, the unit is in pair mode and looking for a remote (I forget how to force the remote into pairing mode, but I seem to recall removing the remote battery was required).

Personally, I found that using a hose wasn't very effective as it tended to push the dirt further into the filter pleats. So, I decided to put my 3D printing and design skills to use and created various spray tools that could push water from the inside-outwards. However, I soon realized that only a high-pressure system would have enough power to effectively remove the dirt in the way it came in. That's when I had an "ah-hah" moment and came up with the idea of using centrifugal force. I connected a filter to a power drill, allowing it to pull the dirt out the same way it entered. To bring this idea to life, I designed a massive 3D printed contraption, and later on, I created a partially large, expensive metal version with industrial 3D printing. However, I received suggestions to make a single-sided tool that could work with a wider range of filters available in the market. So, I went back to the drawing board until I came up with another idea to compress a plug and use the friction to grip a filter from a single side. Although I'm still in the process of building the website and looking for wholesale partners, I am currently selling these filter spinner widgets on eBay. If you're interested in helping me beta-test them, feel free to send me a private message, as I'm not sure if I'm allowed to share direct links here. I must note that these tools are still in the early testing phases, but they seem to work great for smaller sized filters, such as Hotspring's Tri-X filters. Additionally, they work even better when you use a filter cleaning solution to turbocharge the cleaning process. To give you an idea of what my widget does, I've created a low-resolution promotional GIF, which you can check out

Your best bet is to watch your local classifieds and find someone with a hotspring highlife spa with a similar topside who is selling or giving away a dead/broken tub. Offer some cash or something for their time to let you pop off that part you need. I see a broken tub from that era pop up in my local classifieds at least once a month from someone trying to sell it or give it away because it is sitting empty/unused

That's probably the problem, but I am far from an expert You should only feel water coming out from the end of the jet, anywhere else is causing a decrease in pressure which is preventing the arm from swinging properly

Try removing the filter from your tub - see if that helps. If the jets start moving again, then your filter is likely the issue - clean or replace. Next, there is an air control knob on the topside near the motomassager. Turn that knob and see if that helps.

Why do you need the largest tub? Do you have 8 people living at home? Hotspring Highlife's biggest claim to fame are the motomassager jets which are unlike any other jet in the industry. Seriously suggest you at least wet-test them before eliminating them from your list Bullfrogs clips are absolutely something I'd be concerned about - they are affixed to the shell with glue so if they crack it's a pita to fix. Caldera's Utopia class is actually a step down from Hotspring Highlife spas in terms of performance (weaker pumps and plumbing design), and build quality (wood frame vs plastic tool grade framing which has a longer lifespan), and energy efficiency (fully foam vs fibercore insulation) Have you wet-tested any bullfrog spas or other spas in the industry? Bulfrog spas tend to sit more upright and feel "flatter" due to the design of the interchangeable jet packs - other spa shells tend to have a more form fitting curved seats and loungers - you might find one more comfortable than the other (when filled with water - dry fitting into a tub is useless information as buoyancy plays a role in comfort) FYI, several years ago Canada actually banned sodium bromide systems for health safety reasons (sodium bromide is also a strong insecticide which apparently causes enough respiratory issues that it gave Canada enough reason to completely ban the use of sodium bromide systems in hot tubs) While my 2019 Hotspring Highlife spa has saltwater capabilities. I personally opted to skip them, in favor of an ozonator/silver mineral cartridge approach to reducing my chlorine needs. After each soak I use a spring loaded sugar dispenser to add a precise dosage of granular chlorine so it's easy for guests: 1 click per person per 30 minutes soaking (rounding up) and that's basically it (clean filters monthly and boost pH when lower than 7.6). Far more economical than the saltwater systems AND my water has less chlorine than my bathtub on a fresh fill of tap water every time I hop in for a soak (because the ozonator burns off the excess free chlorine by my next soak) Yes I purge/refill my spa twice as often - but water is cheap, that's a tradeoff I'm willing to make. The average spa owner hosts guests in the spa 3-4 times per year. You'll find that many times people just don't have any interest, or that they're gross and can greatly affect your water chemistry with things like moisturizers/lotions on skin, soapy suds on bathing suits, etc. I would splurge on a nicer luxury spa over the largest spa you can find. If I were in your shoes, I would get a Hotspring Highlife Envoy which is the most therapeutic spa in the collection - it has every configuration of seating, including a lounger AND an admiral's chair with a lot more jets and wrist jets making it the most comfortable seat in the spa (aside from the lounger). However I'm personally torn - I LOVE the look of the older 2014-2022 "NXT" generation of Highlife spas, but the new wrist jets on the loungers on the 2023 Highlife models have me jealous and considering an upgrade. However, I would also see if you have a Sundance dealer nearby. They're owned by Jacuzzi and built in the same factory sharing many of the same components. The Sundance 800 series Optima is one of the most therapeutic spas in the whole industry with jets that will nearly blast your butt out of the seat at max pressure lol But as an industrial engineer, I'm a Hotspring Highlife fanboy, I won't deny it lol. I waited 20 years for a luxury spa and have no regrets. I love hot water and use my spa almost every night of the year.

Three dashes is watchdog error - somethings wrong. Those other numbers are really irrelevant. I'd start by removing the front access panel. Take photos of the wiring diagram, and photos of the control board - pay attention to any LED lights on the board and note their status (on, off, blinking). Also take photos if you see any burned or blackened marks on the board which could indicate a problem. I'm not an expert but some of the eagle-eyed experts on these forums might be able to help spot the issue and give you advice from there.

Yeah, long story short the manufacturer of that spa pack unexpectedly went out of business without any advanced notice to Watkins, which forced them to pivot and work on a new board and controller. Their new replacement control boards are unfortunately not backwards compatible. So by this point all the old stock inventory has been sold off and your best bet is to salvage parts from an old dead hotspring spa or an ebay listing from someone parting out an old hot tub. As the old saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! But if the spa is in good enough condition, certainly consider keeping your eye out for used parts. You might find someone selling an older dead hotspring and willing to sell you the spare parts you need for your spa.

*sigh* looks like they hit again.....

Could be a few things. It could be a clogged filter if it runs and then kicks off that error. Or it could be an air bubble causing an air lock. Or possibly a failed temperature sensor. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, you can measure the resistance of the temperature sensors and then use a chart to look up the temperature and see if it's reading correctly. Temp sensors are easy to test and cheap to replace.

Depends, is your spa still under warranty or is it out of warranty? The last thing you want is to break something else and void your warranty in the process lol. Jacuzzi is the manufacturer. The dealer you bought from is an independent authorized retailer with service technicians (or they outsource service to another independent regional dealer). Not all dealers are created equal - some provide much better customer service than other dealers which is why I always tell people to research the dealer's reputation extensively before buying since you're usually stuck with them for the lifespan of the spa.

It needs to be calibrated from time to time, but check out iCare

Extension cord plugs are not made to handle a continuous load for extended periods of time like needed to run a hot tub. Hire an electrician and have them run power to where you need/want the tub. I wouldn't risk an extension cord even if you get a heavy-duty one because your insurance company will look for any reason to deny a claim on your house (It's their job to try and save the company money). If they see something like an extension cord on a hottub, your insurance claim would most likely automatically be denied. At a very bare minimum I would advise contacting the insurance company and try to get something in writing that says yes you're fine to run a hot tub on an extension cord or not - don't take their word for it over the phone.

Possibly a defective touch sense layer on the screen - probably needs a replacement if you can't get it going at all regardless how or where you press

As CST mentioned - new spas are filthy from factory assembly/testing. The internal plumbing is also pH neutralizing internally. Water chemistry is a total mess on any new spa - expect to need extra sanitizer for the first few weeks and balancing pH/TA to be a nightmare for the first fill of water. After 3-6 weeks, grab some AhhSome purge cleaner follow the directions and then drain/refill. I promise water chemistry is MUCH easier after the first refill. Final pro tip - if you're on well water consider getting a pool pre-filter for your hose - this will help filter the water when filling the spa. The slower you fill, the more filtration you'll get. I leave a pre-filter installed at all times on my garden hose - great for refilling the pool/spa and my garden seems to be growing better since I started using the filtered water.

Hot tubs have the best lifespan when left filled with water and balanced/maintained. Once drained and sitting empty, rubber seals will dry/shrink/crack causing leaks, parts will dry-rot away, etc. Know that if the spa has been unused it's a massive can of worms you might not want to get into. That leads me to believe it's an older spa - likely lacking some of the extra safety features found in modern spa electronics. I'd personally probably plan on pulling everything out and starting fresh, using only the shell as a starting point (since there's a good chance the plumbing is cracked/damaged due to water penetrating the old cover and then settling into the plumbing where it freezes/cracks in a cold winter snap. Some brands such as Jacuzzi, Sundance, Hotspring, and Caldera make their own proprietary components. But in very general terms most spas use industry standard off-the-shelf components. Balboa and Gecko are two of the bigger brands in the industry. Dig through enough the forums and you'll find plenty of people who are looking at getting a free hot tub off the classifieds or other sites and asking similar questions. Then you'll see replies from people like us who suggest spending a bit more money on something in fully working condition. Half the time they ignore our suggestion and proceed forward, then document their progress. For a few thousand dollars, you can find a fully functional hot tub in your local classifieds (sort by newly listed, and only look at spas which can be seen holding water and functional - if the spa has been sitting on the market longer than a week, it's either overpriced or not worth the time/effort. ). If you like the shell size/shape and want to tackle a challenge, assuming the pump and plumbing is in good shape you'll at least want to look into upgrading the "spa pack" which is basically the topside controller and main control board. But you might need to replaced the pump, wet end, plumbing manifold, jet housing seals, jets, heater, etc. You'd probably need to build the frame first to support the tub, and then try filling the tub to see where it leaks (note, different leaks appear once water is heated to temp, so you'll need to do multiple leak tests along the way), fix any leaks you have off the bat. Then once it holds water, upgrade the electronics and try to get it fired up - see if you can heat the tub and jets work (doubtful lol). If you can get it to hold water when heated to 100F and the jets work, congrats you've made it further than most people lol. From here I'd look at insulating with stone rockwool fiber insulation stuffed into black contractor bags and tucked into position, then enclose the frame with an exterior cabinet. Then you'll want to replace the filters, get a fresh cover for the spa, and perform a purge with Ahh-Some. To quote Jeremy Clarkson "How hard can it be?" 🙄

Awesome work, fingers crossed that fixes the issue and she's back in business! Keep us posted

As Cranbiz mentioned - test strips are terrible. A titration drop test kit is easier to read and provides more reliable accurate test results. Test strips can actually go bad over time (or when exposed to moisture/humidity) and provide inaccurate readings There are many different care routines - not everyone uses the same care routine. Long ago I heard that one person in a hot tub requires roughly the same amount of sanitizer as 50-100 people in a pool! It's crazy how much more sanitizer is needed due to the hot water being an ideal breeding ground for bacteria. The key is finding a care routine which works for your needs. Many basic entry level tubs lack the luxury features of higher end tubs which alters what care routines they can use with their hot tubs. With my care routine on my Hotspring Highlife 200-gallon spa for example, I test pH once a month (using titration drop test kit), and when it drops below 7.6, I boost with four ounces of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). This boosts both the pH and TA. My pH settles slowly over time so I ride a cycle - boost when low and then ride it down over 6-8+ weeks. High pH causes scale which is reversible damage to the spa while low pH for prolonged periods of time can cause irreversible damage to a spa. So in very general terms its better to ride higher than lower on the desired pH range. Since it takes a while for chemicals to mix, I usually don't bother testing pH for another week or two (but usually I test once a month unless something seems "off" and then pH is the first thing I test). With my care routine my dealer provided me with some math for how much granular chlorine to add after each soak - for a 200 gallon spa that is 0.5 teaspoons dichlor per person per 30 minutes of soaking. This raises the free chlorine levels high enough to sanitize the water after each soak without using too much granular chlorine (which contains roughly 43% CYA stabilizer) Most people suggest you balance TA first, then pH. I personally only monitor the pH since the baking soda boosts both TA and pH and both tend to go hand in hand (boost one both go up, lower one, they both lower). Whenever adjusting pH or TA I'd say wait a week for the chemicals to fully 'mix' but that's just me - I don't know if that's accurate or not. Personally whenever I fill my hot tub, I test pH to ensure water is within proper range (which it's city tap water - it better be!). Then I chlorine shock with 3 tablespoons of granular chlorine on a fresh fill to clean the hell out of everything to start. If during my monthly maintenance I find the pH is too low I boost at the start of my maintenance routine (which includes cleaning filters and conditioning cover), and then I hit with half a teaspoon of chlorine and run jets for 10 minutes before closing cover. After every soak I dose with the proper amount of chlorine (I use a spring loaded sugar dispenser so it's easy for my wife - one click per one "dose") I would leave the cover open for at least 10-30 minutes after adding any chemical just to play it safe. My Hotspring has a "clean" button which essentially runs the jets for 10 minutes then turns off. I always hit that button when adding any chemical to the tub. Ozone burns off organic contaminants through oxidation (like shock) but is such a strong oxidizer that it even reacts with free chlorine. This means you can chlorine shock after use and not have to soak in a bleach bath the next day, because the ozone will burn off all the chloramines and most of the chlorine overnight. With my care routine as mentioned I am only dosing with chlorine after each soak (or after I touch the water, for example to remove the filters and clean them). The circulation pump hooked to the ozonator (and a Nature2 Silver Mineral cartridge) keep the water clean between soaks. If I open the cover and the water looks turbid or has a foul odor, I know to first test the pH and then chlorine shock with a few tablespoons of chlorine with the cover off for 30+ minutes, but it's very rare I need to do that. The other thing I do before every drain/refill is to purge the plumbing with a product called AhhSome - the cleaner your internal plumbing, the less sanitizer you'll need to keep the water clean/clear. As cranbiz mentioned, CYA is a factor - granular dichlor56 chlorine consists of roughly 43% CYA stabilizer compound (which is basically a UV 'sunscreen' to protect chlorine in pools from sunlight breaking it down as fast - but totally useless in hot tubs). CYA will build up in the water and there is no way to sequester - you must drain/refill once it hits around 250-350ppm as it will start to bind to the free chlorine before it has a chance to sanitize the water - this is a dangerous situation because you keep adding more and more chlorine to the water and it's not working to sanitize the water. Personally once my water turns turbid, pH is within range and chlorine shocking doesn't work I know it's usually time to drain/refill the tub. That usually happens every 6-10 months for me because I'm using *very* little amounts of dichlor chlorine to keep the water clean. The more granular chlorine you use to sanitize, the faster your CYA levels will increase. For some people that can be as little as 3-4 months or even shorter if they're really careless with chlorine usage. You could use liquid pool chlorine (NOT grocery store bleach), but this is dangerous to handle because it is more concentrated chlorine and a splash or drip can damage stuff or cause injuries. The benefit to pool chlorine is that it does not contain CYA stabilizer compound, but it's more dangerous to handle which is why most people prefer granular chlorine. Alternatively the Frog @ease system uses a proprietary blend of granular chlorine which contains no CYA stabilizer compound, but since it's proprietary to the brand it's crazy expensive in the long run (way more expensive than simply refilling twice a year lol).

As CST mentioned - could be a dirty clogged filter. Try removing the filter for a quick test - does it still throw the same OH code?

This generation of Hotspring spas is well known to develop a leak on the nipple for the drain line at the base of motomassagers. Very likely this is the source of the leak and where I'd start searching. If you dig the nipple out from the back side, you will find a small vinyl tube connected to the nipple. You can break it off, drill out what’s left of the nipple, and glue another one in. I believe the Hotspring part number is 30598. Then reconnect the hose and you’re done. There is a nipple repair kit which can be done from inside the tub, however that kit is available exclusively to dealers, and it only has a 50/50 chance of working so the drain nipple replacement from the back-side is a more reliable method to fix the issue

It's because the chlorine trichlor tablets are made for pools and can break down too fast in hot tub water. Some brands specifically state your warranty is void if using trichlor tablets in floater. I advise looking into an alternative care routine