djski

Meant to post this in Hot Tub Water Chemistry...can a mod please move?

Is it just the screen that broke, or are the buttons shot too? If just the screen, see if you can find a part number on it. I was able to replace the screen on my obsolete Hot Spring control panel, turns out there are still replacement screens for HP iPAQs out there...good luck.

You will lose ability to concurrently run heater and jet pump. I also recently acquired a Hot Spring and went the 120v route. Takes longer to heat up after a fill but once at set point, I haven't had any issues losing temp during a soak. That said, I live in a mild climate which certainly helps.

After getting comfortable with the dichlor + bleach method but not wanting to add bleach every day, I got my ACE salt system up and running with the Scepter replacement cell from Amazon. It's definitely producing chlorine and I'd like to maximize the life of the cell (thankfully it's much less $ than the OEM ACE cells but still not cheap). Scepter's instructions are a bit different from the ACE, for example: CH: 200-300 ppm (much higher than recommended for ACE) Salt: 1500-2000 ppm 1 oz phosphate remover at start and monthly Most notably, the instructions state "no dry chlorine products" and recommend white vinegar for controlling pH. My understanding is that some dichlor is needed to keep CYA in the 20-30 range (unless I'm going add CYA separately), and white vinegar should not be used. Any idea why the manufacturer would say no dry chlorine or acid, and what would be the best alternative to maximize cell life? (e.g. pure CYA vs. dichlor, muriatic acid vs. dry acid, or diluting dry products before adding to spa?)