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Posts posted by tjr

  1. I would put a non gfci 50amp in main panel and put the 20 and 30 gfcis out by the spa, like the manufacturer has it set up. It will also make the service tech or your life easier when you have a component failure. Also if you are in an area that has cold winters the main breaker tripping will result in total spa shut down which may lead to frozen hottub. Yes it more expensive now but could save you from major expense later.

  2. If the power and ready lights are flashing together the pressure switch is not working . If the power light is flashing the hilimit thermistor is bad or water is too hot. If the ready light is flashing the tstat thermistor is the problem. Jump the pressure switch and spa will start heating. Since the pressure switch is built into the heater it is not serviceable and heater will need to be replaced if you remove jumper at pressure switch pins on IQ box.

  3. If you have 240v at h1 and h2 and no heat, the heater is no good. Without the heater on led lit you should not have power to H1 H2 at the relay board. Assuming you meant 240v at the line in from circuit breaker. The pressure switch in heater is not closing you can get new heater or jump pressure switch at IQbox connection.

  4. To see if circ pump is getting correct voltage set meter to ac voltage and test across terminals on iq box marked circ pump white and black. you should have 120v ac. If you have voltage  to pump and it is not working it is defective(rare,but does happen). A lot of times the circ white wire is on wrong terminal.

  5. No fuses  for jet pump. If voltage coming from heater relay board is 220 across red and black and you are not getting 220 across jet pump terminals (doesn't matter if you have 120 to ground at jet pump terminals) you will need a new main board. That board is available from any dealer. Just make sure you have spa serial number since all parts are based on it.


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