IanDRB

Greetings, I have a 2000 Tiger River/Watkins Bengal tub that I recently converted to 240 VAC. I'l' start by saying this is not first rodeo and I have a knack for residential electrical (and troubleshooting) so note that I followed the wiring diagrams, jumpers on line input, and circuit board jumper instructions to the T. This spa requires two GFCI breakers when converted to 240 V: a 20 A for the panel and jet pump and a 30 A for the heater. The first image shows how it is wired to the sub-panel. Terminals 5 and 6 are jumped, the rest are not. Terminals 2 and 4 are wired to L1 and 2 of the 30 A circuit for the heater. 3 is 20 A hot and 5/6 is 20 A neutral. Ground to ground. Sub-panel is wired correctly using the neutral wires off the GFCIs. Neutral and ground are not bonded at the sub-panel. Not pictured are the low-voltage jumpers on the PCB, which are on bocks 1, 3, and 5 per the schematic. Basically, when I turn both breakers on, the control panel display power cycles over and over again at a steady rhythm and the spa does not turn on. Prior to converting it, it ran fine setup for 120 VAC. Also, on the line side of things in the sub-panel with both breakers off, I am getting normal 117 V and 240 V readings as expected. The weirdness starts when I turn the breakers on. So, I started poking around with my multimeter: When only the 20 A breaker is on, I get .2 V from 3 to 5/6, so basically no voltage. No indication of power, the control panel does not turn on. With the 30 A on and 20 A breaker off, I read 240 V from terminal 2 to 4, but when I measure each to neutral, I get 40 V (L2) and 200 V (L1) respectively. Also, with just the 30 A on, the GFCI LED is lit. There is no power from the 20 A to the control panel at this point, so the relays should not be in contact (unless one or both are shot). Next, with both breakers on, the GFCI LED on the 30 A turns off and the LED on the 20 A turns on. The control panel circuit (terminals 3 and 5/6) read 47 V, heater (terminals 2 and 4) read 246 V. Terminal 2 L2 to neutral reads 200 V, and terminal 4 L1 to neutral reads 47 V. One more nugget to add: when I measure resistance across the control panel circuit with the breaker off, there is ~56 ohms to be had, so there is some continuity. I don't know if this is to be expected or not. I have yet to crack the code here, although it appears that something is shorted in the control panel. That said, when I convert it back to 120V it works fine. I have had a spa technician come look at it and tell me that the hookup looks correct and that he thinks it might be the control panel. Anyone have any thoughts on what is happening here? Appreciate the help. images uploaded to google drive due to file size constraint. Can be found here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1M5zqrzAdMC2hyKdBW6AsTLX6WxeJdV2x Ian