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ILikeBacon

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About ILikeBacon

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  1. Have you tested the thermistors? Sounds like the sensor thinks the water is water then it actually is So if the water is actually 90*, it should be read 7 K Ohms.
  2. Alright folks just a conclusion...My heater's internal flow meter went gone bad. Followed TheHotTubGuy's advice on both items...it after there was no resistance on the sensor (heater side), I nipped the wire and wire nutted it together, the relay kicked over and I had power to the heater again. This was on Friday and all as been well since...good timing, supposed to be 20 here Saturday. Cheers
  3. Alright folks just a conclusion...My heater's internal flow meter went gone bad. Followed TheHotTubGuy's advice on both items...it after there was no resistance on the sensor (heater side), I nipped the wire and wire nutted it together, the relay kicked over and I had power to the heater again. This was on Friday and all as been well since...good timing, supposed to be 20 here Saturday. Cheers
  4. Hello everyone, So I know the ready and power lights flashing together mean that the circ pump is not flowing. However, i seem to be having multiple issues. Back in August my ready and power lights started flashing, so I did the following: (no heat issues yet and I could still see the water breaking from the circ pump) Replaced and cleaned the hot tub filter let it circ without a filter also It was time so I drained my tub (clean and refill, THANKS NITRO!!) I replaced the Silent Flo circ pump with the E5 I assumed it was just following too slow for the sensor or was on its way out Refilled the tub I allowed water to flow out of circ pump (make sure it was not air locked) Everything worked great until the end of last month (September), at which point the lights came back on. I could see still the water breaking from the circ pump and the heat was still working, so I just assumed bad sensors. Fast forward to Sunday, I came out to find it without heat. Yikes.. Winter is coming fast. I cleaned out my ozone-er (found out my check valve is bad) I allowed water to flow out of the heater to make sure it or the circ wasnt air locked I changed out both the Hi-Limit & Temp sensors yesterday (ready and power lights are still flashing) I have power coming into the relay board for the heater, but I don't have power coming out. What exactly I have I'm not sure, I didn't have my multimeter but I didnt have my tester I will pull the board tomorrow evening and check for it burning out (going to rain all day today) At this point, I am at a loss for the best trouble shooting the the low flow code (see the google drive link below to see a video of the circ flow). Edit: Reading through this here: https://www.justanswer.com/pool-and-spa/8fm0l-tiger-river-sumatran-spa-ready-power.html, it looks like my model's heater has a built in pressure sensor. Im going to try to jump the pins also tomorrow night and see if that solves my "low flow" .... But I dont see solving it getting power to the heater TheHotTubGuy : If the pressure switch is bad [on the heater], just bypass it and move on. If the circ pump is not working the hi limit will trip and make the power light flash and shut the tub down until you reset the power. Either way nothing bad will happen....If it turns out the circ pump, is fine and just the pressure switch inside the heater is not working the clip the wires a couple inches from the plug and twist them together and jump those pins. Or buy a new heater. Don't snip any wires until the tub runs fine with the pins temporarily bypassed to be sure the circ pump is fine. Edit 2: upon farther research, it appears the new/replacement heaters do not use the "extra" pressure switch on the board. As such, I would need a jumper for it, Watkins part number #72768 (or just make my own jumper). Edit 3: How to test the heater: credit to Dan.The.Spa.Man You can find photos and videos here: https://goo.gl/rPtEXv (please don't judge my photos lol, they were from before I clean it out) Thanks for reading, hopefully everything was clear. Regards, Bacon.
  5. Hello everyone, So I know the ready and power lights flashing together mean that the circ pump is not flowing. However, i seem to be having multiple issues. Back in August my ready and power lights started flashing, so I did the following: (no heat issues yet and I could still see the water breaking from the circ pump) Replaced and cleaned the hot tub filter let it circ without a filter also It was time so I drained my tub (clean and refill, THANKS NITRO!!) I replaced the Silent Flo circ pump with the E5 I assumed it was just following too slow for the sensor or was on its way out Refilled the tub I allowed water to flow out of circ pump (make sure it was not air locked) Everything worked great until the end of last month (September), at which point the lights came back on. I could see still the water breaking from the circ pump and the heat was still working, so I just assumed bad sensors. Fast forward to Sunday, I came out to find it without heat. Yikes.. Winter is coming fast. I cleaned out my ozone-er (found out my check valve is bad) I allowed water to flow out of the heater to make sure it or the circ wasnt air locked I changed out both the Hi-Limit & Temp sensors yesterday (ready and power lights are still flashing) I have power coming into the relay board for the heater, but I don't have power coming out. What exactly I have I'm not sure, I didn't have my multimeter but I didnt have my tester I will pull the board tomorrow evening and check for it burning out (going to rain all day today) At this point, I am at a loss for the best trouble shooting the the low flow code (see the google drive link below to see a video of the circ flow). Edit: Reading through this here: https://www.justanswer.com/pool-and-spa/8fm0l-tiger-river-sumatran-spa-ready-power.html, it looks like my model's heater has a built in pressure sensor. Im going to try to jump the pins also tomorrow night and see if that solves my "low flow" .... But I dont see solving it getting power to the heater TheHotTubGuy : If the pressure switch is bad [on the heater], just bypass it and move on. If the circ pump is not working the hi limit will trip and make the power light flash and shut the tub down until you reset the power. Either way nothing bad will happen....If it turns out the circ pump, is fine and just the pressure switch inside the heater is not working the clip the wires a couple inches from the plug and twist them together and jump those pins. Or buy a new heater. Don't snip any wires until the tub runs fine with the pins temporarily bypassed to be sure the circ pump is fine. Edit 2: upon farther research, it appears the new/replacement heaters do not use the "extra" pressure switch on the board. As such, I would need a jumper for it, Watkins part number #72768 (or just make my own jumper). Edit 3: How to test the heater: credit to Dan.The.Spa.Man You can find photos and videos here: https://goo.gl/rPtEXv (please don't judge my photos lol, they were from before I clean it out) Thanks for reading, hopefully everything was clear. Regards, Bacon.
  6. ILikeBacon

    Calcium Stearate (White Flakes)

    Just made an account to say I have the same similar issues and it's what got me into this site in the first place. Im going to try to get some pictures of my flakes so we can compare.
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