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ILikeBacon

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About ILikeBacon

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  1. Coming up on year from when I originally did this- still no flakes like before.
  2. I don't want to say I solved the problem, but I solved my problem. I have extremely, extremely hard well water. Calcium is from hardness in the water, so I assumed my problem was Calcium build up. Below is how I fixed my issue. Please note all of the numbers below come from Nitro's decontamination procedure. DO YOU OWN RESEARCH. A submersible pump makes all the of the difference...get one with high gal/hr. 1. Use an enzyme to clean out your pipes, such as Swirl Away, Spa Flush etc. Add this product, run the jets 30 mins and let sit overnight. It will clean out your pipes and deposit the gunk along the water line. Wipe the waterline with a dry paper towel or cloth. Make sure you remove your filter before adding this product. Better yet, buy a new filter. A. I used "Ahh-Some Hot Tub/Jetted Bath Plumbing & Jet Cleaner" Unaffiliated Amazon Link. My research found that Ahh-some works much better, and most importantly, a more 'hot tub safe' product than SA or SF. This is when I choice to "super" chlorinate my tub. Add 50 ppm FC using Regular Clorox 6% Unscented Bleach. That's approx. 1/4 gal (32 oz) per 350 gal tub. B. Drained, cleaned walls with vinegar water. Rinsed, drain, refilled as high as possible, I then balanced water but again, I have poor well water. (this was within reason, it was by no means perfect, and I did not adjust the PH) C. VINEGAR soak, you can find info on this on google, there's also lots of youtube videos. This works on the calcium well but it LOWERS THE PH. I cant stress it enough, you have to be careful not to damage your spa shell. I think I used 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon @ 350gal of water. Added some more ahh-some and I let mine soak for 18 hours. And clean your walls prior to letting it soak. (Note: people leave vinegar in their spas for weeks at a time on these videos, so I wasnt worried about a one time thing for less than 24 hours.) I also chlorinated my tub again, but it was more of a 3/16th cup. Less than the super, but more than normal. D. Drain, clean walls with vinegar water. Refill tub to approx 50% (you want to clean out the lines), drain, rinse walls, drain, refill to normal height. E. Reinstall your filter. 4. Balance your water at this point. TA = 80 ppm and pH = 7.2. If your pH is too far out of range, it will decrease the effectiveness of the Chlorine. 6. Run all jets and air features for 30-60 mins. You can turn the air on and off every 10 mins, to help clean the air lines. Test your Chlorine Demand to make sure the Decontamination worked by doing the following. 11. Shock with Dichlor (Stabilized Chlorine) to 10 ppm FC. Don't use the tub, let the jets run 10 mins, cover, and let sit 24 hours. F. SOAK your filter in cleaner at this point. Reinstall after the 24hr is up. 12. Check FC. If FC is 5 ppm or above, you're ok. If it's zero, your tub is still using excess Chlorine, and needs to be decontaminated again (Absent the Spa Flush). However, this should be rare. I've had a few flake appear after this process but after those, I have not had anymore issues. By the way, if you have extremely poor, hard water like me, I would pick up one of those hardness removing balls. I got the XL one for pools and plan to reuse it multiple times. Hope it helps.
  3. Have you tested the thermistors? Sounds like the sensor thinks the water is water then it actually is So if the water is actually 90*, it should be read 7 K Ohms.
  4. Alright folks just a conclusion...My heater's internal flow meter went gone bad. Followed TheHotTubGuy's advice on both items...it after there was no resistance on the sensor (heater side), I nipped the wire and wire nutted it together, the relay kicked over and I had power to the heater again. This was on Friday and all as been well since...good timing, supposed to be 20 here Saturday. Cheers
  5. Alright folks just a conclusion...My heater's internal flow meter went gone bad. Followed TheHotTubGuy's advice on both items...it after there was no resistance on the sensor (heater side), I nipped the wire and wire nutted it together, the relay kicked over and I had power to the heater again. This was on Friday and all as been well since...good timing, supposed to be 20 here Saturday. Cheers
  6. Hello everyone, So I know the ready and power lights flashing together mean that the circ pump is not flowing. However, i seem to be having multiple issues. Back in August my ready and power lights started flashing, so I did the following: (no heat issues yet and I could still see the water breaking from the circ pump) Replaced and cleaned the hot tub filter let it circ without a filter also It was time so I drained my tub (clean and refill, THANKS NITRO!!) I replaced the Silent Flo circ pump with the E5 I assumed it was just following too slow for the sensor or was on its way out Refilled the tub I allowed water to flow out of circ pump (make sure it was not air locked) Everything worked great until the end of last month (September), at which point the lights came back on. I could see still the water breaking from the circ pump and the heat was still working, so I just assumed bad sensors. Fast forward to Sunday, I came out to find it without heat. Yikes.. Winter is coming fast. I cleaned out my ozone-er (found out my check valve is bad) I allowed water to flow out of the heater to make sure it or the circ wasnt air locked I changed out both the Hi-Limit & Temp sensors yesterday (ready and power lights are still flashing) I have power coming into the relay board for the heater, but I don't have power coming out. What exactly I have I'm not sure, I didn't have my multimeter but I didnt have my tester I will pull the board tomorrow evening and check for it burning out (going to rain all day today) At this point, I am at a loss for the best trouble shooting the the low flow code (see the google drive link below to see a video of the circ flow). Edit: Reading through this here: https://www.justanswer.com/pool-and-spa/8fm0l-tiger-river-sumatran-spa-ready-power.html, it looks like my model's heater has a built in pressure sensor. Im going to try to jump the pins also tomorrow night and see if that solves my "low flow" .... But I dont see solving it getting power to the heater TheHotTubGuy : If the pressure switch is bad [on the heater], just bypass it and move on. If the circ pump is not working the hi limit will trip and make the power light flash and shut the tub down until you reset the power. Either way nothing bad will happen....If it turns out the circ pump, is fine and just the pressure switch inside the heater is not working the clip the wires a couple inches from the plug and twist them together and jump those pins. Or buy a new heater. Don't snip any wires until the tub runs fine with the pins temporarily bypassed to be sure the circ pump is fine. Edit 2: upon farther research, it appears the new/replacement heaters do not use the "extra" pressure switch on the board. As such, I would need a jumper for it, Watkins part number #72768 (or just make my own jumper). Edit 3: How to test the heater: credit to Dan.The.Spa.Man You can find photos and videos here: https://goo.gl/rPtEXv (please don't judge my photos lol, they were from before I clean it out) Thanks for reading, hopefully everything was clear. Regards, Bacon.
  7. Hello everyone, So I know the ready and power lights flashing together mean that the circ pump is not flowing. However, i seem to be having multiple issues. Back in August my ready and power lights started flashing, so I did the following: (no heat issues yet and I could still see the water breaking from the circ pump) Replaced and cleaned the hot tub filter let it circ without a filter also It was time so I drained my tub (clean and refill, THANKS NITRO!!) I replaced the Silent Flo circ pump with the E5 I assumed it was just following too slow for the sensor or was on its way out Refilled the tub I allowed water to flow out of circ pump (make sure it was not air locked) Everything worked great until the end of last month (September), at which point the lights came back on. I could see still the water breaking from the circ pump and the heat was still working, so I just assumed bad sensors. Fast forward to Sunday, I came out to find it without heat. Yikes.. Winter is coming fast. I cleaned out my ozone-er (found out my check valve is bad) I allowed water to flow out of the heater to make sure it or the circ wasnt air locked I changed out both the Hi-Limit & Temp sensors yesterday (ready and power lights are still flashing) I have power coming into the relay board for the heater, but I don't have power coming out. What exactly I have I'm not sure, I didn't have my multimeter but I didnt have my tester I will pull the board tomorrow evening and check for it burning out (going to rain all day today) At this point, I am at a loss for the best trouble shooting the the low flow code (see the google drive link below to see a video of the circ flow). Edit: Reading through this here: https://www.justanswer.com/pool-and-spa/8fm0l-tiger-river-sumatran-spa-ready-power.html, it looks like my model's heater has a built in pressure sensor. Im going to try to jump the pins also tomorrow night and see if that solves my "low flow" .... But I dont see solving it getting power to the heater TheHotTubGuy : If the pressure switch is bad [on the heater], just bypass it and move on. If the circ pump is not working the hi limit will trip and make the power light flash and shut the tub down until you reset the power. Either way nothing bad will happen....If it turns out the circ pump, is fine and just the pressure switch inside the heater is not working the clip the wires a couple inches from the plug and twist them together and jump those pins. Or buy a new heater. Don't snip any wires until the tub runs fine with the pins temporarily bypassed to be sure the circ pump is fine. Edit 2: upon farther research, it appears the new/replacement heaters do not use the "extra" pressure switch on the board. As such, I would need a jumper for it, Watkins part number #72768 (or just make my own jumper). Edit 3: How to test the heater: credit to Dan.The.Spa.Man You can find photos and videos here: https://goo.gl/rPtEXv (please don't judge my photos lol, they were from before I clean it out) Thanks for reading, hopefully everything was clear. Regards, Bacon.
  8. Just made an account to say I have the same similar issues and it's what got me into this site in the first place. Im going to try to get some pictures of my flakes so we can compare.
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