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NO1UNO

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  1. If the tube mounts inside the control pack, you can generally find those seperate. If it's a stand alone heater not mounted to the control box then it will likely be sold as an entire unit.
  2. I always shoot for 250 but anything between 200-400 is right where you want to be so your CH level is fine.
  3. If it's running when you want and heating when it's supposed to, I wouldn't jack with it. While I'm not the biggest HS fan around, I will say that their tech support is top notch. So if you're looking for a definitive answer on a unit that old, I'd go straight to the source. Pretty sure they've archived all the manuals for pre 2000 units so a phone call will be in order. Good luck sir.
  4. Test voltage coming from you board to ensure proper power is being supplied to those two pump. "No Ragrets", know what I'm sayin?
  5. Yep, test at the connection points where the wires come off the board. If you're not getting proper voltage/no voltage then it's likely a board issue. Maybe a faulty relay based on the clicking sound. If you are getting proper voltage at the board, retest at the connections on the pump to verify it's not the wiring. If both are good then it's a pump issue.
  6. Ambient air temp and direct sun light can cause your water to heat without the heater. It's probably nothing but if you'd like to check it you'll need to drain off a little water and add fresh to bring the temp down below your set point, somewhere in the low 90's is good. Once the it's cooled, set your temp to 2 degrees above whatever the current reading is. If the unit runs the temp up to the set point and cuts out, no worries. If it keeps going past the set point by more than a degree then you may have an issue. Do it at night if you can when the temp outside is below what your water temp becomes once you cool it. Like I said though, it's probably nothing. Good Luck.
  7. Did you check the wire to the pump for any/proper voltage?
  8. Any tub run on 110V is going to have it's drawbacks. Those specs are the max for any tub wired to that voltage, it's all 110 will allow. You can however wire it for 220 if you have the capability. It will bump you up to 4KW from the heater and be far more efficient, well worth the extra cost upfront if you ask me. Voltage won't affect the pump HP. However, pressure is dictated by flow and jet count. It's a small pump pushing a few jets so the pressure per jet is adequate but not overly therapeutic. Freeflow's are good little tubs but you have to understand that the brand is there to fill a price point and not much else. They are what they are, not that that's a bad thing. If cost is the overriding factor, you could do a lot worse for an entry level brand. If efficiency, therapy and ease of use are more important I'd probably look into a decent mid tier brand which will require 220V. Good luck to you.
  9. Sounds like a relay issue. Unfortunately those things are soldered on. Board replacement may be your only option. Sorry sir.
  10. Sounds like a bad topside or the board isn't sending power properly to the topside. If you're getting any display on your digital readout then I'd check the ribbon cable coming from the topside to the board. Mice are notorious for chewing halfway through those things. If you don't see anything obvious and you don't want to get a tech involved I'd say swap out the topside and go from there. Good luck to you sir.
  11. Shout it from the rooftops Tom. Together we can we can keep a fortunate few from making the same mistake you obviously did. We're not going to save them all, but as Sir Ben Kinglsey once said, " He who saves one person from buying a piece of crap tub from that traveling circus full of used car salesmen, saves the world entire". OK, maybe I'm paraphrasing there. Local spa shops may not be perfect but at least you've got someplace to come yell at us should the need ever arise. Honestly though, sorry about your luck good sir and I hope you get whatever issues you're having resolved.
  12. The downside to a jumper is that you could, hypothetically, burn up your heater if your circ pump fails. I've never shipped international so I'm no expert, but $1000 total cost seems a bit high on an item that can be had for under $300 online. That being said, Hot Springs makes a jumper to do exactly what you did on your own. HS# 72768. So it's obviously been an issue in the past and they obviously came to the same remedy that you did. Good luck good sir.
  13. It's likely just the weather but if you want to check it, drain some water out (it won't take much) and add fresh water from the hose. This should drop your temp down below the 104 you're currently reading. Set your desired temp to 2 degrees above the whatever the actual temp is on your display (ie. if your cooled temp is 98, set your temp to 100). If the heater/heater light kicks on and off on schedule then you're good. The whole process takes about 40 minutes. Again, it's probably not a problem. Good Luck.
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