Hello,
I'm in AZ, and it is bloody hot but I still keep my 200 gallon freeflow spa running, and on H202. I too have been through the water balancing issues, white water mold (specks on the surface, and the nasty snot looking floaties.) Its been 4 years and I now I think I've got it. I only drain my tub every 4 months, change filters once a month and have had no water mold. Although I admit there is a slight smell after a months use, still crystal clear and the smell reminds me of hot springs. Better than CHLORINE! No shower required before or after. Note: I was a chemistry major and this may be more complicated to some. This is how I did it:
WATER BALANCING:
(TA) Total Alkalinity is the culprit for uncontrollable pH, (we have hard water with TA of 1400 out the tap, with pre-filter) 50-120 is ideal range I believe, depending on CH. When TA is above this, pH will drift up out of range due to the chemical reaction with air introduced from the pumps. Muriatic Acid (HCL) is the most effective way to balance TA, but very dangerous. I wear googles, long sleeves and use a long metal knife to open a new container. Hold my breath and quickly pour directly into the tub, measuring it out is not recommended because of the fumes. For 200 gallons of hard water it takes almost a whole liter of HCL... However don't add it all at once. There are some detailed scientific guides out there but basically you want change the dose sizes in a cascade fashion. I add about a half cup, run the jets with air on high for 15 minutes (this is important to create the reaction with TA) then down to a quarter cup, another 15 minutes on high, 1/8 cup, 15 minutes, 1/16 cup, etc. I just eye ball it and check the pH between each dose. It takes about an hour or so. Once the TA is at 50 I only have to add acid every few weeks, or when topping off with water.
PREP & MAINTENANCE:
I use a hose pre-filter for hot tubs and let the water run for 5 minutes before filling the tub. This gets most bacteria out of the hose before filling. WWM lives in hoses I believe. Vinegar is all I use to flush the tub prior to draining and on the walls with a scrubby. I try to fill the scupper with clean water and let the motor push out the water in the lines, but I don't know how effective this is. Once its empty I give it 20 minutes in the AZ sun! A clean filter is soaking in filter cleaner (diluted) and rinsed clean to start the first cycle of water balancing. You must balance your water before you let the tub run over night or sandpaper scale can appear on the walls. Ouch it makes a nasty rash!
H202 SANITIZING:
Ok, now what you are waiting for! To be successful with H202 I gave it support. Its a weak oxidizer so it needs smaller particles. To assist with this I add a tablespoon (just like a dash) of spa enzyme every two weeks. Too much and it clouds the water. I have an O-zone system which is compatible. I have always used the Nature 2 mineral stick, and MPS shock (oxy-shock) to activate it. The N2 manual states chlorine is required but MPS will work as well. The only reason it says you have to use chlorine is so their product can be considered an EPA approved sanitation system. I also use MPS on a case by case basis when the water gets cloudy or smelly. Probably once in a 4 month period. Now as for the H202 I use 35% food grade from the health food store, probably paying too much but a liter lasts me more than month. I never wear goggles or gloves like I do with the HCL. I have had the white skin burns from it but they go away the next day. Be as safe as you feel necessary. I add about a quarter of the liter at fill, and per other posters recommendations, stop the pump for 15 minutes after it circulates for a minute. This is supposedly to allow the H202 to fully react with any residual chlorine in the city water and remove it, thus preventing any smelly chloroamines from forming. Now the tub is ready. As has already been mentioned on this thread H202 dissipates faster than chlorine, making it more unpredictable. Test strips available online are required to determine a good schedule. I add when it drops below 100 ppm. About once every 4 days. Worth it.
So I use these inexpensive and easy to acquire products: Vinegar, Spa Pre-Filter, Muriatic Acid, Leisure Time Spa Enzyme, Nature 2 Silver Mineral Stick, Leisure Time MPS Shock, Filter Cleaner, Locally made 35% H202, Bart-O-Vation H202 test strips, OH and a couple scum bugs. Gotta have those.
Good Luck Clean Spa Friends!
