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Mike Vitale

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  1. My circ pump is a single speed. I’ve checked The amperage with the pump running. .50 amps which is in the spec of the pump. I also unplugged and checked resistance between the white and black wire. 0 ohms. I don’t know if there is supposed to be any resistance or if this is an indication the pump is bad. The “plug” I pressed is actually a fuse. Not blown and when disconnected the pump shuts off
  2. I did a bit of checking tonight. I traced the wiring on the circ pump and there’s what feels like a breaker on the backside of the control box. There’s a black wire going to it and a black wire coming off it. I felt around the back and I think the button pushed back it. I have the spa running now and will check it in the morning but I’m not optimistic. I can feel the circ pump humming along but I don’t know if it’s any good
  3. Spa has been not working for about a year. Been trying to diagnose and repair as time permits, here's the timeline and what I have ruled out spa was turned down to 85 for a few days then turned up to 103. Never reached temp. Found the ozone generator was leaking, the check valve shattered. Replaced that, no change (obviously). Ohm checked the heater today. 12.4 ohms, 120vac coming from board. Red and green lights are on on the led board (power and heater on) board recognizes when the limit switch is disconnected. I've removed and cleaned the filters and had no change. Since I live in az when the ambient temp went up over the summer the temp of the spa went as well. It was 123 degrees one day and the high limit fault code came on (I've checked, I'm not set to summer mode) by by my testing I have ruled out the heater, relay board and limit switch. I don't know how to test the flow switch or what else I can check. Any advice or direction is appreciated this is is a hot springs spa with a Watkins no fault heater and an iq2000 board. The spa came with the house so I imagine it's at least 10 years old.
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