Hanman34

awesome. Thank you so much for the guidance. I'd buy you a beer if I could. Finding a damn thermometer suitable for this has proven to be a difficult job. I live in the middle of freaking nowhere so running down to the local walmart or whatever isn't an option. Will test as soon as I track one down. The temperature that's flashing is always 106 or 107. We have been just opening the cover for an hour or so before we get in to let it cool down some and the temp on the screen will come down to 101 or whatever then and it feels just right. It hasn't shut off for a few days now, that's what is throwing me off. It seems so random. I'll test what you told me about the hi limit sensor and then probably end up replacing that first and see what happens. I've discovered old spas are a lot like owning an old boat. You spend 10 x more time working on them than you actually use them. lol Thanks again.

Actually there were dashes on the control panel when the power stops. I didn't pay attention to how many as it never occurred to me that this was an error code of some type. What does this mean? Yes, when the power shuts off it won't heat, won't run pumps, no light, nothing. Using a voltmeter I have traced power to the main terminal block. From there it goes to a row of black boxes that I assumed was some type of relay? And no power anywhere past this point. This is an old hot tub I got off of craigslist and have restored. So I do not know if circ pump is original but it does seem to work fine and is almost whisper quiet. When I first got it going I was getting a flo error code. Knowing there was no debris or obstruction (took pumps apart and cleaned/re-sealed them), and that the filter was brand new, I replaced the flo switch and have never had the flo error code since and all jets and both pumps work great. The 106 setting is fairly accurate as I can still sit in it at that temp and I'm pretty sure I couldn't handle 118. I'll look for a thermometer to put in the water to see how accurate it is. I'm leaning toward replacing the hi limit switch since it's a fast, easy, and fairly inexpensive repair. Thanks for your help

Thanks for reading. I'll cut to the chase as to not waste anybody's time who is kind enough to read this post. I'm having actually 3 issues with my hot tub and I believe they are all related. So if I can pinpoint the cause then I may possibly be able to kill 3 birds with one stone. The spa is a Sundance Optima, I believe year 2000. My first issue: I lose power to the hot tub sporadically. The GFI breaker does NOT trip. I am losing power somewhere in the hot tub itself. I have tested the panel on the spa itself while it has shut off on me and there is power to the panel. all fuses in the circuit board are fine. I have power to the main panel of the spa. After shutting the breaker off for about 30 minutes and then turning it back on it will repower and work fine. Only other thing I know about this is that the touch panel doesn't always function properly. Hoping this isn't my issue because that's not a cheap repair. Second issue: The hot tub is overheating. It always heats to 106, then get the over heat code and it maintains that temperature. I am assuming that there is a pre set limit and that's the temp it's set at? (hi limit switch is working then?) Third issue: The heated water coming out of the heater into the spa at times (not always) is hot enough to scald if you get too close. So this tells me that possibly the circulation pump isn't pushing water through the heater fast enough? But even if this is the case, wouldn't the spa still shut off at the desired temp (101) even if the water coming out is too hot? Appreciate any advice. I'm willing to replace whatever needs it, but I hate to blow $300 bucks on a new touchscreen if that's not even causing the problems. Thanks again.