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Jwyrick85

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  1. If it was working fine at the previous owners home, Chances are you have an issue with the way you have it wired.
  2. Remove the filter and try again. If that doesn't help and you're sure you have good flow from the circulation pump back to the tub, you're probably looking at a bad thermistor.
  3. So I've been bouncing in and out of this forum for a few months now. I was just curioush how many other Technicians are in here? How long have you been in this field? I've been trying to find FB groups and forums for this field for a while. It seems we're a rare breed.
  4. 110 from H1 to H2? Or 1 leg to ground? Are power or ready lights flashing?
  5. I work for a Caldera dealer. I agree with Castletonia, if you can get the Marino for 5500 I would definitely go that route. Dream maker is an OK entry level spa but if you find little things you don't like about it as you use it you'll be less likely to actually use it regularly which in turn could give you a false interpretation of what a hot tub can do for you. Sitting in all of them dry will give you a rough idea of how each one feels. Keep in mind that buoyancy will change how the spa feels pretty drastically. At our store we do scheduled soak nights. A customer can narrow down there options to 2 or 3 spas and we'll let them come in for a few hours and actually use them to see which spa best suits their specific needs. You might ask if your dealer can do anything like this. Good luck on your purchase.
  6. Is it tripping the thermal switch in the pump? If that's the case is the control system a new install?pump new? If new control system its possible that the control system isn't set for correct voltage. This is determines by which spade terminal the white wire in the pack is plugged into for each component. If its not a new system, chances are that the shaft seal has gone bad on the jet pump causing the shaft of the motor to rust and swell enough to split the sleeve on the impeller and force it into the housing, not allowing the pump to spin freely enough to start.
  7. What your describing is the return for the circulation pump. Water is drawn through the filter that has the grey stand-pipe and cap, pushed through the heater assembly, ozone mazzei injector then back through the floor fitting. That fitting is also tied into one of the drains to help drain more completely. That cover just threads down into a wallfitting. I wouldn't be terribly concerned with it being loose unless the wall fitting itself is loose and your noticing water loss.
  8. I work for a dealer that sells both brands. From a service standpoint I seem to have less warranty calls on the Hot Spring stuff (Even though they're made by the same parent company.) I've had some issues with the DJS system on the Cantabria, glue joint failures and tons of issues with the 1" speakers for the audio system. You'll also need to have 70 amp power if you want to be able to run all 3 jet pumps and the heater at the same time. On the Hot Spring up until the 2019 model year, I would have strongly advised against the Ace salt system. But the system just got a major overhaul and I'm not sure if the newer system will fix the issues that the old system had.
  9. The low speed has to run in order for the spa to heat up. Those tubs also have what watkins calls a "tranquil period" after the pumps have been manually shut off there's an internal timer that will cycle the jet pump back on low speed after 10 minutes if its calling for heat or filtration. Sounds like normal operation to me.
  10. Those boards are notorious for blowing out the big heater relays on the bottom of the board.
  11. If converted there are jumpers in the terminal block that must be removed. You should have a 30 amp 2pole GFCI and a 20 amp single pole GFCI in the disconnect box if I remember correctly. You should have 240 between the 2 hots and 120 to neutral from each hot. If you don't have 240 then you more than likely have an issue with the breaker, the power feeding the panel or the sub-panel itself. I've had numerous occasions where a homeowner installed breakers incorrectly in the small 50 Amp Cutler hammer spa disconnects and the 2 pole GFCI ends up only pulling power from 1 leg of the supply.
  12. I can't tell you definitively to replace that jet pump but it sounds like a pump 1 issue. The white wire (common 120v) shares a relay on the control board. So if you aren't fully disconnecting all wires during your troubleshooting then that could be why you're still tripping when moving wires to pump 2 terminals.
  13. You say you have 120v on each heater terminal but do you have 240 across the 2? You could have a defective pressure switch....
  14. If it goes straight to "protection" on start up, Its more than likely a bad high limit or control thermistor. If its delayed a few minutes, it could be a circulation pump issue.
  15. There are some spas that don't have a heater. Dream maker has a few that fit that bill. These tubs typically use a heat jacket system on the motor, using motor heat to maintain water temp. Some have a "Hot stick" pump discharge union that causes turbulence and friction in the flow of the water causing heat increase. I've seen some that use both systems. In most cases that I've encountered, these systems do well if the spa is indoors or in an area of the country where you don't get harsh winters. They have a really hard time keeping up at temps much lower than freezing as you can only gain maybe a degree per hour with these types of systems. Hope that helps answer some of your questions.
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