n-mod

I glued them back in and got them somewhat working. They still leak a lot. I think the only way to fix these is replacement.

If you have a multimeter I'd suggest testing to make sure the relays are bad. You can check to make sure they are getting voltage when calling for heat either 12v or 18v. If so, check for continuity. My relay contacts melted down so continuity was poor. I do have a spare bulletproof relay kit I could sell you. I know the guy on ebay has been really struggling to stock the relays since covid hit, however I'd test the relays before trying to replace them.

I was able to get mine to work. The used board sold to me had bad relays. I soldered on new relays and have been good since. Have you checked if you are getting voltage on the heater terminals? I'd guess most likely your heater board. Do the relays click when calling for heat?

After many hours of testing, I believe I found the replacement heater board to have a faulty relay. It sometimes works, other times not. Does anyone know the part number for the bulletproof relays. I see the guy on ebay no longer has them in stock. Thanks

My 05 Hot Springs Jetsetter has been working good for 2 weeks. Then it started randomly not heating. My Heat LED is on, relays click, but don't have continuity across them. I tried replacing the heater relay board (with a used tested good board), but same results. Then I tried replacing the mainboard with a untested spare I had. Same results. I replaced both thermistors. Nothing is helping. I tried in both 120v and 240v modes. My heat is dropping (80F right now). I'm not sure if it's still heating at all anymore. Any ideas?

Got it working with a proper wiring setup. Thanks for saving my board. This is on a converted jetsetter running 220.

I'm looking for a solution to get my 2005 comfort control valves working again. They are a 3 piece system and the inner piece tends to rotate and block most of the opening. As far as I can the inner two pieces should be locked together, but it rotates with use. This valve (73341) doesn't appear to be available anymore. This is my second tub with identical issues, so I know others are experiencing it. Does anyone have a solution for making these work again?

Is there a way to tell if my board is new or old style? It says to read instructions on the board, but the instructions don't say anything about the jumper. My mainboard has been replaced at some point.

Here is a link to the thread. It won't let me embed it. I believe I killed my board by power cycling too quick while testing the heater. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47307-77119-heater-relay-board-multiple-failures/&tab=comments#comment-199573

After a long time researching I found this thread with a post from NotaFanofWatkin, that describes the issue very well and a way to bypass the failed chip. I got it working with 120v, but don't have a reliable 220v connection until I move the spa to my deck. If this doesn't work, I'm going back to the old style heater board and upgrading the relays. Thread "77119 Heater Relay Board Multiple Failures"

I attempted this with 220v, it tripped my gfci as soon as the heater turned on. Any ideas how to get this to work? Or maybe I mixed up my wiring, I have it hacked together in my garage. EDIT: Looks like it was just my hacked together wiring. Works perfectly. Thanks for saving my board!

Is there a reason this hack wouldn't work on 220v installs? Seems the low voltage circuit would stay the same.

The board is set to 12v. I see other instructions saying to set it to 18v. What is this jumper for and could that have caused my issue?

I pulled out my old burned relay board, hacked it together, and it's working good. So it must be the relay board. This is the newer board 77119. Any ideas what could have failed? I hate spending another $150 on one.

After fixing some issues with my heater, I'm now getting D9 flashing on my heater relay board. Any ideas how to fix this? It does it even with the heater disconnected.

After more thought these do work exactly as I was thinking. My issue was the copper line had a pinhole in it., which must have allowed water to leak into the switch housing, causing the connection to become dirty enough to kill continuity. The redundancy is strange since the main controller also monitors high temp and will shut down if overheating.

Ok, so after digging into it more, I found that the limit switch takes pressure from the copper line, if enough pressure builds up (from heat), the switch trips. I accidentally broke the switch trying to open it, so I have an new one on order(Mine didn't seem to have continuity anway). The thing I don't understand is what's the purpose of the PTC heater? Is it just to keep heat on the switch in case the tub overheats (so it manually has to be reset)?

My Hot Springs heater element (Hydroquip 26-C3160-1S) stopped working. I'm working on a fix, but don't know how it works. When bench testing the element itself is working good (10ohms reading). Which leaves me to two other components, a device I found is a limit switch (RME-215A5230-2) and a PTC Heater(I think) DBK EB51 1/8 100-240VII U38V. When powered up the PTC heater gets hot enough to boil water, but the main heating element doesn't heat. Any ideas?

I had this same issue. I just cycled my colors and they match up again.

73456 is the correct part. The new one is set up so the flex-hose slides inside and doesn't need adapters like the old.

I know this is old, but it could be very useful. Maybe we can build a list? Here is what I know Jumper 7 - Continuous display Jumper 10 - Displays actual temp, not just set temp.

Serial number is KK3F1538 The part is arriving today so I can verify once I receive it.

I wonder if these heaters are actually designed to draw the rated capacity, or if 5.5kw is the max draw. That may be normal. Are you certain it is heating slower? How long does it take to raise it 5 degrees?

Not much movement on this forum. Anyway, I believe I found the part: 73456 Check Valve I tried putting a 1/2" restrictor in the line, but it's too weak on low speed, and high speed it nearly sprays the seat on the opposite side.

Check with a multimeter that you are getting 240 volts to the heater. If that's true then it should be working. Are you certain it was a 5.5kw heater?