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spageezer

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  1. Thanks for the reply Cusser. I test fitted a 2" PVC Sch40 coupling on the end of the hardened hose and it seems to fit normally. I've got two of these hoses that wrap around the bottom of the tub, one on the suction side and one on the pressure side. Both are covered in foam on the opposite side of the pump. I think I'll trim them both back a few feet and use couplings to splice in new hose. I've already got new fittings for the pump and controller. I need to shift the location of the pump a bit. The pressure hose is wrapped over the pump and it is pinching the pump power cord. That's probably trouble waiting to happen.
  2. Just purchased a new spa controller that requires new plumbing attachments into the pump and out of the controller. The 2" flex pipe leading to both ends has hardened and shrunk to the point that installing the new controller with existing piping led to numerous leaking joints no matter how I tightened them. So at least some of this hardened flex PVC has to go. It's a 2003 Hawkeye spa. Just cut out a section with a hacksaw and the sawdust it produced has me wondering if this hard pipe is even serviceable. See attached image. It resembles some old pool table rails I replaced where the rubber had become hard and brittle over the years. The spiral reinforcement protrudes so that the outer surface is not smooth. Can this still be glued into Schedule 40 PVC fittings with these spiral ridges? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
  3. While installing a new controller on my 2003 Hawkeye spa, I was having difficulty pulling the 2" hose up to the new controller. That 2" hose seems to be shrinking and it just will not reach the controller without putting the rest of the plumbing back to the pump in a real bind. Is this typical for 14-year old spa hose? I also found signs of a small water leak where this same hose is crammed up against a small hose at a jet body, probably because of shrinkage. Looks like this old stiff 2" hose has to go! How difficult is it to cut out old hose and glue in new?
  4. Well, no replies. Turns out Balboa has a dedicated relay for the ozone circuit in its Value Series controller. Got an VS500Z and its exactly what I needed.
  5. Hey folks. I'm new to the forum, but not new to portable spas. I've got a 2003 Hawkeye spa that just had its first major failure. One of the heater relays failed in dramatic fashion. See attached photo. Anyhow, the board is pretty much toast and 14 years is a good run. It's a Gecko controller (model 0202-205108) and Gecko and many web vendors show 0202-205212 as a drop-in replacement. Not so in my case. I tried one and first of all it is designed to run the ozone any time the pump is on low speed. That's fine for the filter cycle and while heating, but to have the thing pumping out ozone while someone is in the spa running the pump on low seems unhealthy. BTW, there is no circulation pump. I run the filter cycle for 3 hours every 12. My old controller had a relay for the ozone circuit and it would turn the ozone off if the pump or light buttons were pushed. I was willing to live with a little extra ozone exposure, but here's the rub. If you have a 240V set-up and the pump is wired for 240V but the ozone is 120V, the new Gecko 0202-205212 would back-feed power to the ozone through the low-speed pump circuit any time power was on the system. In other words, the ozone generator was on CONTINUOUSLY. Not good. The response from Gecko tech support was "what do you want ozone for anyway?" They basically seem to have designed all the currently available S-class controllers with no regard to the use of ozone. I could have bought a 240V ozone generator, but the 120V UV unit I have now is fairly new and working fine. Does anyone offer a good controller that has a logic control and relay for the ozone generator? Gecko does not seem to. So I guess I'm looking for a controller/topside bundle now. The topside is a Gecko TSC-19. Do any other brands work with that topside control? Thanks for any advise you can offer.
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