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Everything posted by danthespaman316

  1. Could be seized or your capacitor could be shot. See if you can manually spin the shaft. If it turns freely, it's probably the capacitor. If it's seized, replace the entire pump. Good luck.
  2. Make sure your neutral is wired into your breaker and not the bar at your disconnect box? Boards can fail upon being powered up. The load hitting it can can sometimes finish frying whatever has been holding on for dear life under constant load. I'd double check that all of you don't have any burns anywhere on the board. Good luck sir.
  3. Double check all of your fuses. I'm going to assume that you're not getting any error codes which would make me believe that your circulation pump might be failing. It might have enough flow to activate your pressure switch but not push enough water to keep up with the heat setting. If it shows it's trying to heat then it's likely not a switch issue. However, you should be able to jump the 2 connections on the pressure switch to bypass it. If your tub heats as normal afterword it needs to be replaced. If you're still dealing with the same issue I would move to the circ pump. If that's good then it's likely something in the board. Good luck, good sir.
  4. Depending how the room is finished (sheet rock, cedar, tile, etc.), I'd really look into installing a large exhaust fan to purge the moist air during usage and minimize the chance of discoloration, deterioration and mold growth to your walls and ceiling. A simple circulation fan will move the air but there's no guarantee that it will find the skylight windows before it condenses, especially considering the overall size of the room.
  5. Hot Springs has a lot key features that distinguish it as one of the better brands of tubs. Unfortunately the Limelight series doesn't incorporate most of them. The construction is quality, but it's a fairly simple unit with fairly simple components that can be found on most mid tier tubs. That being said, the only time Master belongs in the same sentence as Hot Springs is when some poor soul says, "Man, I should have spent that extra $1000 on the Hot Springs as opposed to buying that Master Spa". If you search for independent reviews you will quickly learn why. Make sure you're dealing with a reputable dealer but if these are your only 2 options I'd buy the Pulse without hesitation. Good Luck.
  6. Sounds like a gate/slice valve. Usually they have a quarter turn locking mechanism where the handle meets the collar. If it still won't open after you turn it counter clockwise, you probably have calcium or other buildup that is seizing the gate. You can try to muscle it or you can cut it out and install a new unit, they run about $20 online. Honestly, I'd use the pump and not mess with the valve.
  7. It may be easier to fix but it is also far more likely to leak.
  8. You're crazier than most but not quite certifiable. If it works there's nothing wrong with dropping a few hundred bucks to shore it up. If you do redo the base, flip it. It's far easier to do shell down than it is on it's base. You also won't run the risk of fracturing the shell under it's own weight. Use 3/4 treated ply for the base. Install a subframe that actually contacts the the ground and raises the base off the concrete by running treated 2x4s width wise around the edges and parallel at 14-16" on center through the middle (it shouldn't matter which way). Build everything as close to original specs as you possibly can. Good luck.
  9. Based on the issues you're getting, I'd replace the pump and call it good. If that is the correct original Jacuz/SD part #, the manufacturer suggested replacement is 6500-092 and can be found at the website listed below for the same price as the pump you linked. The mounting bracket is not included but can be found online for around $30 or you can whip something up on the cheap if you're handy. Only replace it with a 2 speed unless you have a separate circulation pump. https://spacare.com/Sundance_Jacuzzi48FrameLXPump_2.5HP230Volt2Speed48WUA2002CIISUN.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1JbPBRCrARIsAOKj2PkDke2lP9BRgvYVmPE7lDELFUh3Z7k92mxOr0yAewUg-myFfyV2Ue4aAnjsEALw_wcB
  10. With the watchdog code it could be a number of things. However, replacing the hi limit isn't a bad idea given how prone they are to failure and how crucial it is to the proper functionality of the tub. If it doesn't take care of your problem I'd suggest calling in a tech.
  11. If the diverter valve is cutting power to one side without affecting the other you either have the individual jets turned off which can be remedied by turning the faces of each jet or you have a clog in the line going to that side. If the jets are all on full and you're still not getting flow, I'd start with some jet clean before you start ripping into plumbing.
  12. We Use Rectorseal #5 but any pipe dope for water applications will work fine. If you're worried about the temp I've heard of one operation that used Deacon brand but that crap is crazy expensive and difficult to work with.
  13. Sorry sir, I don't get on here as often as I should. Hopefully you've already gotten this taken care of. In case you haven't, anything by balboa will do you well and the swaps are pretty simple.
  14. I'd guess you have a bad high limit or flow switch. If you have a multi meter you can check the resistance on each. How to instructions can be found with a simple internet search.
  15. If it's a GFCI breaker at your quick disconnect make sure the neutral is wired to the breaker and not the bar.
  16. We get all of our customs built by SpaMate out of Kansas City and they can be found online with a simple google search. They do quality work and if you have the tub year, make and model, they probably have factory dimensions on hand so there is no need to risk giving the wrong measurements. The nylon handles, nylon locking straps and nylon mesh uderside are all upgrades but well worth the extra money. Good luck to you.
  17. If swimming is a main goal, I'd suggest the flattened swim jets of the Coast over the round high volume jets of the other two. The stream is wider and easier to stabilize yourself in. Either way it will take some getting used to. The F-1325 by CalSpas is a good unit that we generally show on our floor but I'm not sure if you have a dealer close. Regardless of what you end up buying, I always suggest full foam insulation if it's available and built in ozone is also a good idea. If at all possible, buy because of the dealer as much as for the brand and layout. Even the best product on the market can have issues, having someone local who you can count on to take care of you should be one of your biggest purchasing points. Keep in mind that these things will probably only heat at about 3 degrees per hour so don't expect to swim in 80 degree water at 4:00 and relax in a 102 degree hot tub by 8:00. Good luck to you.
  18. You can retrofit as long as you have a pack that runs 220V and account for all of the options that your tub has. Ozone, lights, circ pumps, etc. Your new board will control voltage to your accessories as needed. You'd be best served to get a full control pack with integrated heater and a new corresponding topside control. The pump should be pretty easy to replace as long as you stick to the same frame and plumbing sizes. Good Luck
  19. Circulation pump. They look to be pretty standard for new models by that brand so I'm assuming that tub has one. It's a low flow pump used specifically to turn over the water and run your heat cycles. It's not make or break but I think they're a nice option.
  20. Start with disconnecting the power, not calling you stupid but I'd feel bad if you died for forgetting such a simple step. A sawzall with a demo blade will work for the shell and frame, everything else can be taken apart with standard tools or a sledge. I'd go with gloves and a full respirator for teardown, that stuff gets nasty over time. Good luck.
  21. It's not a brand I would normally suggest to people new, but a 7 footer in pretty good shape for $2500 isn't bad. Not a fan of the insulation style and leaks will become an issue over time. If it has a circ pump and ozone I think it's a fairly good buy. Make sure you personally see it function properly and ask them to up the temp so you know it will still heat. if for some reason you can't verify those 2 things, walk away. Good luck.
  22. Best I can tell, it looks like a 2" flex line blew out. So no, you shouldn't cap it. It either runs from your pump to your jets or is a return for your heater so it's pretty critical to the function of the tub. If you can find at least 3/4" of good flex on each side of the crack, you can remake whatever is between those 2 points and install it with couplings. If the crack runs all the way to a coupling at one end, keep tracing it back until you hit another piece of flex and splice it there. If the crack runs all the way into/includes a manifold, congratulations on your new Jacuzzi brand boat anchor. Just jokes, but I would call in a professional if that's the case. Regardless, based on what I think I see, I'd be surprised if that's the only busted piece of plumbing you have. Not trying to be Debbie downer, just giving you the heads up. Good luck to you.
  23. Good luck fitting 4 in either of those. 3 sets of feet in those footwells is going to be an intimate experience so make sure you like everybody. If it's a pricing thing, I'd go with Coast. They look to be a little better quality than the other but I don't know how much I trust a company that has to use "Extreme" in the name of half it's features. If you don't mind shelling out the duckets for something that will last, I'd look more along the lines of the Montclair or Marin by Sundance. It's larger than what you're looking at but will actually fit 4 and has a lounger. Jacuzzi, Hotsprings and Bullfrog are also quality brands that I'm sure offer something that would meet your needs. If at all possible: Buy Local - You can't put a price on quick, knowledgeable service when it counts. Buy Something With Full Foam Insulation - I wouldn't trust just a thermal wrap that far north. Buy Something With A Circulation Pump - This will also run your heat cycles, saving you money. Good luck to you.
  24. Probably shouldn't have put the size # as it varies among manufacturers. Yes, 3/32 is the thickness. Whatever you find with those dims should be fine.
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