danthespaman316

Could be seized or your capacitor could be shot. See if you can manually spin the shaft. If it turns freely, it's probably the capacitor. If it's seized, replace the entire pump. Good luck.

Make sure your neutral is wired into your breaker and not the bar at your disconnect box? Boards can fail upon being powered up. The load hitting it can can sometimes finish frying whatever has been holding on for dear life under constant load. I'd double check that all of you don't have any burns anywhere on the board. Good luck sir.

Double check all of your fuses. I'm going to assume that you're not getting any error codes which would make me believe that your circulation pump might be failing. It might have enough flow to activate your pressure switch but not push enough water to keep up with the heat setting. If it shows it's trying to heat then it's likely not a switch issue. However, you should be able to jump the 2 connections on the pressure switch to bypass it. If your tub heats as normal afterword it needs to be replaced. If you're still dealing with the same issue I would move to the circ pump. If that's good then it's likely something in the board. Good luck, good sir.

Depending how the room is finished (sheet rock, cedar, tile, etc.), I'd really look into installing a large exhaust fan to purge the moist air during usage and minimize the chance of discoloration, deterioration and mold growth to your walls and ceiling. A simple circulation fan will move the air but there's no guarantee that it will find the skylight windows before it condenses, especially considering the overall size of the room.

Hot Springs has a lot key features that distinguish it as one of the better brands of tubs. Unfortunately the Limelight series doesn't incorporate most of them. The construction is quality, but it's a fairly simple unit with fairly simple components that can be found on most mid tier tubs. That being said, the only time Master belongs in the same sentence as Hot Springs is when some poor soul says, "Man, I should have spent that extra $1000 on the Hot Springs as opposed to buying that Master Spa". If you search for independent reviews you will quickly learn why. Make sure you're dealing with a reputable dealer but if these are your only 2 options I'd buy the Pulse without hesitation. Good Luck.

Sounds like a gate/slice valve. Usually they have a quarter turn locking mechanism where the handle meets the collar. If it still won't open after you turn it counter clockwise, you probably have calcium or other buildup that is seizing the gate. You can try to muscle it or you can cut it out and install a new unit, they run about $20 online. Honestly, I'd use the pump and not mess with the valve.

It may be easier to fix but it is also far more likely to leak.

You're crazier than most but not quite certifiable. If it works there's nothing wrong with dropping a few hundred bucks to shore it up. If you do redo the base, flip it. It's far easier to do shell down than it is on it's base. You also won't run the risk of fracturing the shell under it's own weight. Use 3/4 treated ply for the base. Install a subframe that actually contacts the the ground and raises the base off the concrete by running treated 2x4s width wise around the edges and parallel at 14-16" on center through the middle (it shouldn't matter which way). Build everything as close to original specs as you possibly can. Good luck.

Based on the issues you're getting, I'd replace the pump and call it good. If that is the correct original Jacuz/SD part #, the manufacturer suggested replacement is 6500-092 and can be found at the website listed below for the same price as the pump you linked. The mounting bracket is not included but can be found online for around $30 or you can whip something up on the cheap if you're handy. Only replace it with a 2 speed unless you have a separate circulation pump. https://spacare.com/Sundance_Jacuzzi48FrameLXPump_2.5HP230Volt2Speed48WUA2002CIISUN.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1JbPBRCrARIsAOKj2PkDke2lP9BRgvYVmPE7lDELFUh3Z7k92mxOr0yAewUg-myFfyV2Ue4aAnjsEALw_wcB

With the watchdog code it could be a number of things. However, replacing the hi limit isn't a bad idea given how prone they are to failure and how crucial it is to the proper functionality of the tub. If it doesn't take care of your problem I'd suggest calling in a tech.

If the diverter valve is cutting power to one side without affecting the other you either have the individual jets turned off which can be remedied by turning the faces of each jet or you have a clog in the line going to that side. If the jets are all on full and you're still not getting flow, I'd start with some jet clean before you start ripping into plumbing.

We Use Rectorseal #5 but any pipe dope for water applications will work fine. If you're worried about the temp I've heard of one operation that used Deacon brand but that crap is crazy expensive and difficult to work with.

Sorry sir, I don't get on here as often as I should. Hopefully you've already gotten this taken care of. In case you haven't, anything by balboa will do you well and the swaps are pretty simple.

I'd guess you have a bad high limit or flow switch. If you have a multi meter you can check the resistance on each. How to instructions can be found with a simple internet search.

If it's a GFCI breaker at your quick disconnect make sure the neutral is wired to the breaker and not the bar.