freeflow

Hello. I will be purchasing a new ozone unit soon...either a Delozone or a DynoZone. My current 4 pin connector was spliced onto the ozone cable by the dealer, and one of the wires was purposely cut so it is acting as a 3 pin plug. My spa is 240 volt. Will a new ozonator 4 pin plug be o.k. even though the old plug was converted to a 3 pin plug? Also, I removed the plastic tubing from the old ozone unit and blew through it into the tub....but I couldn't. I know it's a one way valve but shouldn't air be able to go into the spa by blowing? There is no water in the tubing. Thanks.

SOLVED. Blown fuse! Would not allow pump to turn on, therefore the sensors were not getting flow which is why the error code came up.

Help! I've tried everything I know of. I just installed a new Waterway Executive pump to replace my old one. I filled the spa though the filter inlet as I usually do. I power up and temp comes on, heater comes on for just a minute or so, (pump does not come on!) then I get the error codes...SN (sensors out of balance) or DR (inadequate flow or air bubbles). Pump has yet to come on. Water comes out when I loosen the lines at the pump. I usually get these error codes when I refill, but it only happens once then it will start after a second try. This time though, with the new pump, something is different. Could it be the pump or an airlock? Thanks.

Hello. I have a 2005 freeflow spa, 220 volt. I just replaced the circuit board because it was shorting (I could push on the board and the topside readout would blink). In addition to that, the spa would shut off if I tried to use the pump on high. Now with the new board installed, the pump turned on and went through the programming, and started heating. So far so good. After 10 minutes I decided to try the pump on high and immediately the pump shut off and I got the "HL" code (a significant difference between temperature sensors). Owners manual says to be sure pumps are primed (I never drained it before new circuit board was installed). So, I turned off the breaker for an hour and tried again. Now the spa turns on, goes through programming, but I only get 2 dashes in the topside panel (meaning temperature unknown). The pump runes for a few minutes, then I get the "SN" code meaning "the sensors are out of balance". Owners manual says this could be a temporary condition. Do you have any ideas what is happening? Both codes have to do with sensors. Thanks.

O.K. I just looked at some youtube videos and they show where the switch is inside the pump. From my earlier testing, I remember getting voltage on the board where the pump pigtail plugs in after the pump craps out in 10 seconds, which I think is telling me the board seems to be doing its job. So for now it appears to be the pump, or pump switch, and I should be able to do your test, and research how to test the overload switch. Thanks so much Dave, I'll let you know how things play out....I won't be able to do the tests for a couple weeks (surgery) but actually look forward to doing the tests and getting to the bottom of it. I'm a sucker for this stuff....I just replaced the $6.00 copper contacts in my car's starter instead of the whole $200 starter and solved it!

Thank you. I was explaining the symptoms to my brother who had a similar problem on his spa and his pump has an external thermal overload switch (rather than inside the pump) which ended up being the culprit...I think he has a CalSpa. It was a cheap part that was fairly easy to replace. Do you know if my Waterways pump has an internal switch, or could it be behind the access cover allowing me to test it and or replace it? In doing the pump test you described above, will that help me diagnose the switch? Or is that the first of several tests.

Thanks. O.K...makes more sense not cutting and splicing the connector....and easier. I'm going to look for a female 4pin AMP connector...maybe Radio Shack? and give that a try. Accessing the backside of the pump/access plate on my spa is difficult. So once I'm ready to go, I plug in the pump to a wall outlet. I'm assuming the tub does not need to be powered up at that point? And I'm just checking that the pump will run longer than 10 seconds? Or if it's bad, will shut off.

Thanks. Yes, my test leads were in the correct holes, as you described above. Makes sense about the pump overload switch and the resultant circuit board shutting power off to the pump. Wow...a lot going on with this stuff. I'm an amateur and not sure I can do the pump wiring to a 110 outlet trick. Would I have to cut the pump pigtail off and then splice the pump wires to the computer cable wiring with a 3 prong plug on the end? Then plug into a 110 outlet to see if it runs without the pump thermal overload shutting it down? If it is just that, I may be able to give it a try. If the pump is bad, swapping it out looks messy...not sure I can do it. May have to have a Freeflow tech do that for me....if they do that kind of thing? Even though it's a 12 year old spa, I'm not ready to throw in the towel as I just bought a new cover for it 2 months ago! It's still a bit of a mystery as to why this all started happening a month ago. When I tried to run the pump on high, it would trip the breaker. So I unplugged the ozonator, (I was making an assumption that I was drawing too many amps) and it fixed it.... for a couple weeks anyway . I was able to run the pump on low and high as long as the ozonator was unplugged. Then after a couple weeks of non-use, I go out to use it and see the strange LED display, with no pump working, which is when I started this thread. I'm no longer tripping breakers, just the pump shutting off as we've been diagnosing. Crazy stuff.

Thank you. I've gone through the process one more time. After 10 seconds or so, the pump shuts down. I then remove the 4 pin pump connector and have NO power going to the connector (but have power coming into the terminal block of the board). I think this is telling me there is something going on with the board, as you mentioned in your earlier post, yes? I may also have an issue with the high speed pump circuit as you mentioned. The pump I have is a Executive 56 by Waterway. Just a single pump, not two. I don't know why the spa will run normal at times (as I posted earlier with the filter out, on low speed) and other times shut down after 10 seconds...but I'm guessing a bad connection /solder ring crack somewhere on the circuit board that occasionally works, then not. With this in mind...the circuit board will probably have to go out for repair or replacement...what do you recommend? As far as the pump goes, can the high speed circuit be replaced or will I need to replace the whole pump? I'm actually fine with low speed if it means I don't have to replace the pump. Thanks again, I feel pretty good about the troubleshooting and all of your help. Bob

Making progress! As another experiment, I took out the cartridge filter as I mentioned because it's old and maybe just too dirty (on my brothers spa, a different make, his tub will not operate if the filter is old). Guess what? It is running fine now for 30 minutes...heater is on, LED is fine! Then I turned the jets to high and the pump shut off (but did not trip the breaker). I hear a low "exhale" of air in the heater and "HL" appeared on the LED meaning "a significant difference in temperature sensors has been detected, possible priming or flow problem". Pump came back on in about 30 seconds after I hit the pump button again and running fine on low. Then I did the same thing again...hit pump to high and it shuts off. This time I hear the same "exhale" of air in the heater tube and the LED readout is "SN" meaning "sensors are temporarily out of balance". What do you think? This is crazy, but could it be as simple as needing to replace my filter and repriming? It still does not explain the bizarre readout of the LED display when it was flashing, dim with broken characters, but I'm not getting that anymore.

Hi Dave, thanks. Sorry about the confusion about no power coming in....I had my multimeter on the wrong scale. I get 240 volts showing from the board at the 4 pin connector (pump unplugged) with or without the topside plugged in..... it doesn't make a difference. The voltage remains after 30 seconds. When the topside is plugged in, LED reads correctly...no broken symbols...not dim or blinking. As an experiment I unplugged the topside and turned on the breaker and just like before, the pump starts, runs for 30 seconds...jets/bubbles, etc, and then something clicks on the circuit board and shuts off the pump (though still have power...no breaker was tripped). What do you think? Is it sounding like the pump? Would an obstruction cause this? A clogged filter (which I have about 3 years on this one)?

Had a chance to look at this and here are the results. I turned off the breaker for 10 minutes or so and after turning back on (with the pump plugged into the 4 pin connector and the topside plugged in as usual), the pump starts, along with a clean and proper LED display on topside. Everything great. After 10 seconds or so, the pump and LED topside shuts down. Then I do what you suggested....turn off breaker, unplug the pump 4 pin connector, insert multimeter leads into the red/white on the board and turn on the breaker. No voltage across either the red/white or the black/white. Topside still reads fine. After the typical 4 minute programming cycle, I hear a relay click (but obviously no pump turns on because its unplugged). Then the "DR" symbol flashes on topside which means poor flow or air or inadequate water (I think this is on because it is sensing the pump is not running). Then I repeat the process with the topside unplugged. Same exact results...even the relay clicking after a few minutes, but no voltage at the 4 pin. In each of these tests, there has been no voltage coming into the tub at the main connection on the circuit board. Should voltage be registered even if pump is not running?

Awesome...sounds like a good diagnosis rather than throwing dollars at things blindly. I may have to wait a few days before I'm able to do the testing (leaving town) but I'll report back. Very much appreciated!

Thanks. The Freeflow dealer made the splice...I no longer work with him, he was a butcher.The splice is the ozonator that I have since disconnected because when the pump is turned to high, the ozonator would trip the breaker. It' s a 20 amp breaker in the subpanel and for some reason that ozonator would trip it...started doing that this last year. It seems these ozonators don't last long...this was my third. I'll check the 4 pin connector...hopefully I should read full voltage? When checking do I keep the topside unplugged?

Sorry pic is upside down

Shoot that's what I'm afraid of. I've attached a pic of the board. I believe the pigtail of wires going to the pump are in the top middle. Is this where I should check for full voltage? And do I put the probes on the board or the pigtail side (disconnected obviously). Thanks.

Hi Dave...the Balboa box is aluminum, dated 01/06. I think I see the transformer...about 2" square held on with 2 small nuts, left of the dip switches. Anyway, I disconnected the topside and turned the breaker back on and still nothing...but I do have full voltage going into the circuit board. It will be hard for me to check voltage going to the pump itself as the wires are on the backside of it...and behind a small access panel on the pump housing. Removing that may be difficult and I'de have to use a mirror to get my leads in there. I appreciate your thoughts and troubleshooting!

Hi Jersey. Thanks. As is stands now, there is no readout on the LED, whereas before it was dim, blinking erratically and a broken gobbledegook of lines. I'm leaning to just starting with replacing the LED touchpad since it is easy for me to do...and mine is missing the logo anyway. Yesterday it did indeed turn on after being off overnight, with full readout of the LED, but as I mentioned, quickly shut off to the state I I have now which is no readout. BTW, where is the topside transformer as that is a good suggestion. The pigtail from the topside plugs into a female connector on the Balboa circuit board...not sure where the transformer is.

Thanks for the correction...it is an LED display and is back to what it was: broken, kind of random flashing, random lines. When the pump came on, yes water was moving. My voltage check was to the circuit board. I can check voltage to the pump itself later today. I think I can only check it with the pump not running because I can't get it to run (although, if I turn off the breaker and let it sit it may turn on for a very short time.

I opened things up and visually the topside LCD touchpad and connections look good. After shutting off the breaker, then turning the breaker back on, the tub LCD looks fine (not all broken up like before) and begins the programming. After the typical 2 minutes, the pump starts for about 10 seconds and then immediately shuts off and no topside LCD readout. I heard a relay click twice on the circuit board when it shut down. The breaker does not trip and I still have full voltage going to the board. Does this still sound like the topside touchpad? Thanks...you are helping me with this diagnosis and still prepared to buy a topside touchpad if this still could be the culprit.

Thank you, will do.

Thanks Jersey. Once I get a part #, do you where I can order one?

Hi Dave....Not flashing and they are not digits or dashes...just "pieces" of the LCD readout, like it is shorted out or something. A can barely see a glow of some stray red lines. I'll have to look at my pics to see the control pack and get back to you.

Thanks for your replies. I bought the spa new (2005) and it is a 220 volt spa (I did not convert it). The contactor is in a Connecticut Electric box (also 2005), and they don't use them anymore in the newer boxes.I did the contactor replacement several months ago and don't think that is the problem. I was fortunate enough to find a couple on Ebay. I do have full 220 volts going into the spa circuit board. The topside panel was removed a year and a half ago and is probably not sealing well. (I sent it out for a diagnosis when I had circuit board issues).The decal has long since disappeared. I hope that is the problem as that is probably easier to replace and would save me more troubleshooting. As of now, I'm only getting a couple dashes showing with no buttons working. Can you point me in the right direction of where to buy a new topside touchpad? It is the Solstice model. Thank you...and before I buy anything, I will look at the touchpad wiring and any possible leak areas.

Hello. Recently I have noticed my 10 year old Freeflow spa having an issue with the touchpad and operation. The readout on the touchpad is dim and broken/partial letters...nothing works, no light, no pumps. I researched a bit and saw a post that said the spa needs to reset itself by turning off the breaker for one hour, then turning back on. Sure enough, it worked and ran fine. 2 days later I now have the same problem. Does anyone know why this is happening? Thanks. By the way, I recently replaced a bad contactor in the breaker box (240 volt) 2 months ago with no issues...don't know if that could have anything to do with it.