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Scuba, You have some good points, and I thought about how I would mitigate them. To be more specific in my approach: (1) A low voltage (i.e. 12V battery) operated RF relay so that I can just put the RF controller right next to the circuit breaker (which is on the wall of the house closest to the tub). Then connect this directly to the existing heater relay (which is I think connected directly to the High Temp relay). (2) Same remote 12V relay as above, but connected to a heavy duty contactor or relay (rated for 4kW). Either of these I think would satisfy most of the concerns you listed since (a) I should be able to attach them to the tub's existing ground and (b) it'd be installed inside the control module's housing so I don't think anyone would be at risk of electrocuting themselves. I'll also add that I am likely the last tenant in this house before it gets remodeled, which would likely do away with the tub anyhow. Obviously (1) is ideal because it would be cheaper and require fewer modifications, but I am not sure how I'd wire that and I may have to access the back of the PCB. If you can offer any advice on this I'd appreciate it. I'm attaching a close-up of how it's wired, and the link to the datasheet for the existing relays. http://www.alliedelec.com/american-zettler-inc-az2120-1a-15df/70132409/

Hmm. So I found the connectors for both temperature sensors. I tried unplugging them and I get a Sn1 error, which according to the manual means the sensor malfunctioned (duh), but unfortunately it also shuts down the whole tub. If the HI TEMP sensor detects >112F, it also shuts the tub down completely. The same is the case if it detects a problem with the flowrate (so I don't think disconnecting the pressure switch would work either). The only options I see is to disconnect the heater power directly. I unhooked it and turned it on. It hasn't blown up yet, we'll see what happens when the skim cycle kicks in in a few minutes. If it works fine, then I'm just going to buy a 240V 30A remote relay and connect that in there. Maybe I'll got with a connected relay, then I can say I have a "smart" hot tub

Scuba, Thank you, that makes sense. I do agree with you on not wanting to turn it off: it gets gross within a two days or so. That's why I'm trying to get the best of both worlds: I'd like to run the filtering cycle for the 4h a day the manufacturer deemed minimum, but I do not want to be heating up the tub during this time. What I was thinking is I would just install a switch on one of the temperature sensors and then mount it on the outside of the tub so all I have to do is flip an extra switch to allow the tub to sense the actual temp and thus turn the heater on when I actually want to use it. If there is a hi limit sensor, is this a binary signal or a continuous temp signal? If it is binary it should be quite easy to install such a switch in between that and the control unit. So for the ozonator, I should just buy a new one (i.e. not replace the lamp, chip or whatever it is that it uses)? Thank you

Scuba, thanks for the very helpful post. I'm 99% sure all of the controls are electronic. I opened it up and took some pics. It looks like the control board was made by a local company, so I'm going to try to give them a call tomorrow. The ozone unit doesn't look all that serviceable, and it doesn't have any part numbers on it, but I guess I can call a local rep and check. Images: photo hosting ebay

Scuba, thanks for the very helpful post. I'm 99% sure all of the controls are electronic. I opened it up and took some pics. I contacted the manufacturer and they didn't seem to want to help. I may look into highjacking the thermocouple or however it sense temperature to read 100F to the board whenever it is in econ. Has anyone done this before? The ozone unit doesn't look all that serviceable, and it doesn't have any part numbers on it, but I guess I can call a local rep and check.

I have a 1999 Caldera Spa's Martinique. Yes, I know it's an old model, but I'm renting a house and it's permanently installed, so it can either be a swamp (as when I moved in) or a functional tub. It seems to work fine, but I have one problem and one question: Problem: the circulation pump kicks in for a minimum of 2 hours twice a day (4 hours total), and when it does, the heater kicks in as well. This is a problem because the minimum temperature on the spa is 80F, so for 4h a day it's running the heater to get from 60F (or whatever ambient is) up to 80F, even though I don't plan on using it for a week or maybe more. Is there any way to disable this? I imagine I'd have to mess with the logic control board... Question: I know that all of the functions work because I can test them (i.e. jets, filter, light, etc.) but the one thing I cannot test is the ozone generator (which I can see is installed). There is no error code being displayed, but that doesn't mean it is working. Does anyone know how I can check this? Thank you!