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xenon2000

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About xenon2000

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    Phoenix, AZ
  1. All repaired. No idea what is wrong with the newer Rev C 2016 board, but I replaced a relay on the older 2005 Rev B board and that is now working so I am using that.
  2. UPDATE: I still had the old 2005 board, which it's only symptom was that it wouldn't heat the water. So they said it was the board and replaced the board and all was well until now. So I looked at the old board and saw a bad solder on 1 of the heater relays and the super short jumper wire was fried. So I soldered the relay and replaced the jumper wired and installed the old EL2001 board. So now everything activates on the spa with the repaired old board. Motors, lights, etc. But, now I have to wait and see if the water heats since the repairs I did. Since that was the only thing that didn't work on this older board. So is there a way to test the heater element output to confirm the repairs without waiting to see if the water heats up? If the water doesn't heat with the repair, I will then try replacing both relays.
  3. I have a Balboa EL2001 Mach 2 circuit board and ML700 topside panel with aux top panel. I am trying to pinpoint if I have an issue with the topside panel or the circuit board. The board was replaces under 2 years ago. The top panel acts like everything works, icons change like it is working, but nothing actually turns on. None of the 3 motors and not even the spa water light. All the fuses are good and I don't see any visible damage on the board. I would love to be able to unplug both top panels and test if I can get the circuit board to turn anything on. Is that possible?
  4. I think what I am asking is beyond the scope of this forum. But if someone knows, that would be cool. To be more specific, I am looking for help to repair my Balboa 53414 EL2001 M2.1 board. Because I am sure it's the board. No way that 3 motors and the light all went bad at the exact same time. And the fuses and power are all fine.
  5. Thanks for the info. None of the 3 motors or the water light turn on. Even though the panel claims they turn on. Phoenix heat is still hot enough that the spa is still over 80 without the heater running. But the pump never runs so if the heater did turn on it would overheat I would think since the pumps don't turn on. I will check the fuses again. The wire running through the glass housing does not appear broken, but I will check then again. But I would be shocked if ALL the fuses went out at the same time. And shouldn't the panel act differently with the fuses blown? I don't even hear any of the relay packs energize. Is there an appropriate way to manually trigger them to test?
  6. I have a Diamondback Spas, generic spa I figure. Running on a Balboa EL2001 system with an EL2000 mach 2 board. 2 jet pumps, 1 with heater and filter. 1 light. 1 blower pump. 1 O3 system. It was working fine. Then we had several weeks of monsoon storms and now it does nothing. The control panel works and lights up. No codes. Responds to button presses and lights up the icons like it is turn the light on, or any of the 3 pumps. But nothing actually happens. Act like none of the components have power. All 3 pumps and the light can't all have died at the same time. I have reset the breaker box. Same thing. I have tested all the fuses, they are good. I tested the extra leads on the board that go to the Neutral, Black, and Red hot mains and those have power too. I can't think of anything else to look into. I figure it has to be something with the board.. it's only 1 years old, the board. But doesn't mean something didn't happen to it. Any ideas on what to check for? Just seems odd that ALL the functions don't work even though the panel does.
  7. xenon2000

    Is Spa Up just baking soda?

    Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash) will raise pH much more than Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda). Both raise Alkalinity about the same amout. So if you use Baking soda, you may raise the alkalinity too much by the time the pH is correct. Since a spa doesn't need much, I would just buy the right pH up that uses Sodium Carbonate , no bicarbonate.
  8. I just recently had this same issue. And I swear my heater core looked and tested as good. But I took the old one to a shop to match up with a new one and sure enough that did the trick. No more tripping the breaker and the water heats up fast.
  9. xenon2000

    Backwash slide valve will not pull out!

    I gave up and had a company come out and replace the O-ring.
  10. I have watch a handful of videos and run across many posts about taking the slide valve out of the housing of the backwash valve. Even ones that look really stuck. But in the end they just keep wiggling and pulling and get it out. But I just can't remove mine. It only goes up a little bit, doesn't wiggle side to side at all. And no matter how hard I pull or even if I push down and then pull up as fast as I can, it never moves more that what seems like the usual distance of normal operation. Is there some kind of slide hammer tool I can use? Some trick I am missing? I really don't want to cut and re pipe in an all new assembly.
  11. UPDATE: The main board was replaced last week and sure enough that fixed the issue. Set to 103F and it stays at 103F with no issues. So it was the main board. Odd that the first company couldn't come up with the same solution.
  12. Thanks for the confirmation. I figured that was the case too but wanted to ask since I am new to Spa ownership and know nothing of the specs, etc. As my latest post says, the 1st company finally admitted they didn't know what they were doing and so another company came out. Supposedly the controller board is bad and is NOT activating the element. No errors, so maybe it's just a relay issue on the board. But they want to replace the whole board. Since it's being done under a home warranty, they can do that. Otherwise I would just diag the board myself and see if it's just a relay or other component I could just replace myself.
  13. K, well the 2nd company repair tech says it is the controller board and that it's not activating the element but that the element is good. So now waiting on a new controller board. At least this person has a solution and hopefully they are right. Sadly they are saying it will be 2 weeks. And I was really hoping to use it tomorrow night.
  14. Yesterday it got up to about 75 F outside and the spa still only maxed out at 72 F. I have another spa tech company coming out today. Hopefully they are smarter than the first company that came out.
  15. We just moved into a new place, so we don't have much history with the spa. Which is using a Balboa controller and 5.5 KW 220v heater. It was able to have the water at 100 F about a month ago and it was still pretty cold outside. It is now maybe 5-10 F cooler at night now. But our days are still hitting 70 this week. And it was fairly warm nights last weekend too for me due to rain. Yet last Saturday after running the spa in standard mode for about 36 hours straight, the water got to 85F within 24 hours but even after 36+ hours it would not go any higher. So I put it in sleep mode. The water is now about 64 F as it's idle temp. I just had a spa tech look at it yesterday and he claims everything tests out fine and he has no idea why it won't go higher than 85F. Recommended I power cycle the spa at the breaker box. So I did that, left it powered off for about 5 minutes. And it's been running now for about 17 hours. Went from 64F to 68F before bed in about 7 hours. And when I woke up, it was 70F after about 7 hours more. I will have to ask the wife what the temp is now. But a 6F degree increase after 14 hours of continuous heating and water flow seems extremely slow for a covered spa in a mild Phoenix, AZ winter. And it didn't have this issue a month ago with similar low/high outside temps. So I have a hard time believing that it simply can't heat higher than 85F during a mild Phoenix winter with continuous heating running. Plus now it seems to be worse as on last Saturday when it hit 85F in similar outside temps, that it hit 85 well within 24 hours of checking. Now I wonder if it will even hit 85F since the repair tech tested everything. So it's obviously heating the water, so the single element is working to some degree. And the display shows the heating is actively on every time I go check it and the pump has been running non-stop since yesterday. Am I just naive to think that a 5.5 KW heater should be able to hit 100F water in a covered spa with outside temps of 50/70 F low/high temps?
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