Ron L.

Did you pay in full? if not, DON'T until they correct many of these issues. Maybe get another pool company out to look and pay them for their opinion? I don't know but if that was my pool I'd be raising hell for at least some of that, ESPECIALLY the leak & they should have known about the electrical issue. Seems like shotty work to me.. Ron

My Aquapure keeps going down to 0% chlorine production and saying low salt. I had the water tested and it has 3100ppm. I recalibrated it twice. The chlorine is at 2.0. Any ideas Pool Clown? The complete cell just turned 2 years old! Ron

Not sure why this would be, but maybe the level just never got up to where it should be. They do sell liquid. Google Natural chemistry instant conditioner. Last time I looked Walmart.com had the best price for a gallon. No pushing it around helping it dissolve. My pool is larger like yours (42,000 galons) and they take stupid amounts of chemicals. I tried the granule stuff ONCE and never again! It doesn't dissolve. The liquid is more $ but worth it, as you have discovered. Ron

I recently did this as well. Super easy job! Watch a few youtube videos on it. You don't really need to backwash first, because your changing the grids anyway, plus when you open the filter housing the water will all run out. Rinse out the inside of the filter housing real good (with the drain still open) before you replace the grids. Do one grid at a time so you don't lose the shape they're supposed to be placed in. Remember to add DE after you close her back up. After I replaced my grids (O'm the 2nd owner) my pump pumped water into the pool better than ever! Ron

Has this just started? The valve actuators are usually electronically controlled to automatically open and close the valves depending on what mode the pool is in and what you're controlling. Your valves (the light blue lever looking things) seem to just be valves (not electronically controlled). They also all look to be in the open position. If you know which one controls the spa, you might want to close that one. Ron

I'd start by following the trouble shooting guide & test the voltage at the points in that guide. It's very easy if you have a voltmeter. Ron

I had to replace my front board and transformer. All of that is working fine now, but since I fixed this, my PDA when powered up just sits at "waiting". I looked in the manual and it says to shut power to the system and remove the battery. Then put power back on & replace battery. I did this and it didn't work. But did they mean remove the PDA battery or the 9V battery at the main system board out by the pumps? Either way, any ideas from anyone? Ron

UPDATE: I figure this may help others out with the same issue. So I ended up having a pool company come out. I figured my problem was something simple that I just couldn't figure out after all of the trouble shooting I did based on tips here and from the Jandy manual. The tech found my upper fusible link was bad, which I figured. I just wasn't sure why it would go bad again. he said that Jandy had a number of complaints about this in the past so the made a better made fusiblelink for the upper, AND one with a higher trip temperature! (244* vs. 155*-don't quote me exactly on those numbers) He had the higher temp fusible link on his truck so he threw it in and VOILA, the heater is fixed!!! He checked with a mirror under the burners, down by the heat exchanger, etc and said it looked great! The problem is that NO WHERE in the Jandy manuals in print or online made ANY mention of this upgraded part! Had it been listed I'd have fixed the damn heater myself in 10 minutes!!! Uggh! Ron

UPDATE!! So I received and installed the upper fusible link and without closing the front panel I turned the heater on. She fired!! I waited 1-2 min & then started to put the front panel back on. It gave me a problem going back on and I felt like there was a lot of heat being generated. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but I lightly pounded on the top of the front panel to get it down all the way and on the 3rd pound the heater conked out again. I doubt my pounding did that, so then I assume she was possibly just getting too hot in there based on the heat I felt and the fact that the fuse link blew again (or I got that fault again). Yesterday I had removed the top to expose the heat exchanger and it was 99% clean and clear. Any suggestions at this point? I feel like I'm close to solving this and it's something simple, but I don't know what the answer is. Thanks a million...AGAIN!! Ron

Yes, thank you for the help regardless.. Well I ordered the fusible link, ignitor, power board and ignition control module. i ]'ll just return what I don't need. Still way cheaper than having the pool people come out. They want between $140-180 just to show up for the hour, and that's before they'd rape me on the parts. I'll throw in the fusible link ($10) regardless and then I'll try the power board. Hopefully that's as far as I'll need to go.

I discovered a 2nd fusible link in the top of the unit. Could THAT ONE be causing this?? Although I did get a voltage reading at the power board from one of the wires coming from that (not the other one though), so I guess it's still good? The instructions say to look under and see if there is a glow from the ignitor. I did not see this fyi.

When was the last time the filter cartridge was cleaned? How old is the filter/cartridge itself? I just changed the cartridge cells in my filter and it now blows out of the return harder than ever! It also has happened to me when the basket in the pump was clogged with debris. Clean that out and do a backwash and try again. If that doesn't work, maybe clean or replace the filter cartridge. It's very easy..

So I tested across the ignitor and I DID in fact get about 50-60 ohms with the heater off. Does that mean the ignitor is good? So where does that leave me? Replace the Power Controller board? What else would explain no volts for the limit sensors ?

Also, but what about all of the other no voltage spots on the power board? Like at the temp limit sensors and where they connect on the board, etc?

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I emailed Jandy and they said they can't go over this with me. If I were an electrician they'd speak to me on the phone and "we can go over the safety loop and let you know what needs to be fixed". Does this help?

I'd appreciate ANY and all help. I'd rather not call a pool guy if possible. The ignitor has power going to it, but not coming out of it. But as I mentioned, when I call for heat, NOTHING happens in the unit. I just have that fault displayed. It's like the heater is dead right now. Ron

I did not replace the lopress fuse link as the troubleshooting directions did not say to. I followed the flow chart and volt meter test spots as per the troubleshooting instructions for the results in my original post. As it sits now, when I call for heat nothing happens and the display shows the fault-fuselink/field still.. NOTHING else, no sounds, nothing. I'd appreciate any tips!

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the fusible link. How can I tell if it's the ignitor OR the ignition control? You don't think it's the power board due to all of those no voltage test points? Any tips on how to further narrow this down would be appreciated! Edited: I see how to get to the heat exchanger by taking off the top parts.

Hello! Sorry for the lengthy description that follows. Suddenly my 2 year old heater says: Fault Fuse link/field. It will not heat. The red heat light will not go on for either the pool or the spa. Last year this happened and I changed the fusible link and it worked fine after that. I tried that again first and it didn't work. I then followed the trouble shooting guide/flow chart with my volt meter. A,B,1,2, & 3 all were fine. (power supply & Transformer) Then it took me to test point 4 & 5 (water pressure switch). There were proper volts there. Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire). Next were 8 & 9 (highpressure limit). Neither had volts. I replaced both high limit switches completely. This did not help. A side issue was BOTH switches were in the outbound flow side. The instructions said to place the 108* red dot switch in the inlet side, so I moved it there. I then installed the 126* switch in the outlet side in the tube furthest from the heater, out of the two possible tubes to screw it into. At points 10 & 11 (ignition control) I got no volts. When I unplug one of the red power wires in to the left side of the ignition control and plug it back in, the red diagnostic light flashes once. When I test on the right side an open spot for a connector to plug into, I do get voltage, but quite low. I did NOT get volts at test point C (coming from the ignition control), but I DID get volts from D (coming from the power supply). SO I'm thinking it may be the ignition control, the power interface board (universal controller power interface), or maybe both? It seems like too many points on the power board have issues:6,8,9,10 & 11 (on the ignition control but connected to the power board). I'm handy and can replace either easily, but I don't want to buy both if 1 is not needed, and I don't want to call a pool guy because they're $180 to show up, they'll upcharge the part by 100%, and then charge another $180 (possibly) to install the new part once they get it. Any one have any idea to help? I'd appreciate it from those in the know on here! Thanks! Ron