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Ron L.

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About Ron L.

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  1. Did you pay in full? if not, DON'T until they correct many of these issues. Maybe get another pool company out to look and pay them for their opinion? I don't know but if that was my pool I'd be raising hell for at least some of that, ESPECIALLY the leak & they should have known about the electrical issue. Seems like shotty work to me.. Ron
  2. My Aquapure keeps going down to 0% chlorine production and saying low salt. I had the water tested and it has 3100ppm. I recalibrated it twice. The chlorine is at 2.0. Any ideas Pool Clown? The complete cell just turned 2 years old! Ron
  3. Not sure why this would be, but maybe the level just never got up to where it should be. They do sell liquid. Google Natural chemistry instant conditioner. Last time I looked Walmart.com had the best price for a gallon. No pushing it around helping it dissolve. My pool is larger like yours (42,000 galons) and they take stupid amounts of chemicals. I tried the granule stuff ONCE and never again! It doesn't dissolve. The liquid is more $ but worth it, as you have discovered. Ron
  4. I recently did this as well. Super easy job! Watch a few youtube videos on it. You don't really need to backwash first, because your changing the grids anyway, plus when you open the filter housing the water will all run out. Rinse out the inside of the filter housing real good (with the drain still open) before you replace the grids. Do one grid at a time so you don't lose the shape they're supposed to be placed in. Remember to add DE after you close her back up. After I replaced my grids (O'm the 2nd owner) my pump pumped water into the pool better than ever! Ron
  5. Has this just started? The valve actuators are usually electronically controlled to automatically open and close the valves depending on what mode the pool is in and what you're controlling. Your valves (the light blue lever looking things) seem to just be valves (not electronically controlled). They also all look to be in the open position. If you know which one controls the spa, you might want to close that one. Ron
  6. I'd start by following the trouble shooting guide & test the voltage at the points in that guide. It's very easy if you have a voltmeter. Ron
  7. I had to replace my front board and transformer. All of that is working fine now, but since I fixed this, my PDA when powered up just sits at "waiting". I looked in the manual and it says to shut power to the system and remove the battery. Then put power back on & replace battery. I did this and it didn't work. But did they mean remove the PDA battery or the 9V battery at the main system board out by the pumps? Either way, any ideas from anyone? Ron
  8. UPDATE: I figure this may help others out with the same issue. So I ended up having a pool company come out. I figured my problem was something simple that I just couldn't figure out after all of the trouble shooting I did based on tips here and from the Jandy manual. The tech found my upper fusible link was bad, which I figured. I just wasn't sure why it would go bad again. he said that Jandy had a number of complaints about this in the past so the made a better made fusiblelink for the upper, AND one with a higher trip temperature! (244* vs. 155*-don't quote me exactly on those numbers)
  9. UPDATE!! So I received and installed the upper fusible link and without closing the front panel I turned the heater on. She fired!! I waited 1-2 min & then started to put the front panel back on. It gave me a problem going back on and I felt like there was a lot of heat being generated. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but I lightly pounded on the top of the front panel to get it down all the way and on the 3rd pound the heater conked out again. I doubt my pounding did that, so then I assume she was possibly just getting too hot in there based on the heat I felt and the fact
  10. Yes, thank you for the help regardless.. Well I ordered the fusible link, ignitor, power board and ignition control module. i ]'ll just return what I don't need. Still way cheaper than having the pool people come out. They want between $140-180 just to show up for the hour, and that's before they'd rape me on the parts. I'll throw in the fusible link ($10) regardless and then I'll try the power board. Hopefully that's as far as I'll need to go.
  11. I discovered a 2nd fusible link in the top of the unit. Could THAT ONE be causing this?? Although I did get a voltage reading at the power board from one of the wires coming from that (not the other one though), so I guess it's still good? The instructions say to look under and see if there is a glow from the ignitor. I did not see this fyi.
  12. When was the last time the filter cartridge was cleaned? How old is the filter/cartridge itself? I just changed the cartridge cells in my filter and it now blows out of the return harder than ever! It also has happened to me when the basket in the pump was clogged with debris. Clean that out and do a backwash and try again. If that doesn't work, maybe clean or replace the filter cartridge. It's very easy..
  13. So I tested across the ignitor and I DID in fact get about 50-60 ohms with the heater off. Does that mean the ignitor is good? So where does that leave me? Replace the Power Controller board? What else would explain no volts for the limit sensors ?
  14. Also, but what about all of the other no voltage spots on the power board? Like at the temp limit sensors and where they connect on the board, etc?
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