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skylerfox

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Everything posted by skylerfox

  1. I'm not sure if anyone is still looking at these postings since they have been pretty much beat up and are old. It seems to be egg nog and tumble weeds over here! LOL! Anyways, if anyone still reads these here's what I ended up with: After a 24 hour setup I've determined I have an 80% CD. (The not good level) I can attribute this with a 99% likelihood to it being because of the ozonator. I did a super duper decontamination and the tub is fairly new and super clean. So now I am super curios to know if the buildup of CYA will soften this number as I continue to add to get the 30 ppm level. Will this get better, or would I be better off disconnecting the ozonator for this dicholor then beach program? Does the benefit of the ozonator outweigh the high chlorine demand? If my FC goes to 0, does the ozonator act as a safety net like the mineral sticks do? Would I be better off adding the mineral stick, keeping the ozonator on and just continue with the dichlor bleach method? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks! Jim
  2. I am needing some clarification here in regards to the baseline mentioned above and have some dumb questions: On day 1 there is only a little CYA in the tub from the initial 10ppm shock. The day you switch from Dichlor to Bleach, there is the proper amount of CYA to help stabalize FC levels. Will the CD change (slow down) much at all between the two different benchmarks? So is the goal after you use the tub, to measure the FC left in the tub and to try adding enough bleach to equal your baseline? If I have an ozonator which commands a higher CD, would it be beneficial to target a higher baseline after usage since it depletes more quickly? If I use the tub, and the FC goes to 0, am I suppose to calculate the projected non-oxidized waste still left in the tub, then having to add enough bleach to vaporize it, and then to add additional bleach to bring me back to my baseline or above it? Will the baseline or CD generally change as the water in the tub ages?
  3. So I spoke with one of the managers at Leslie Pool Supply in regards to this issue. She seemed to think it was a reaction to the copper in the Clorox Xtra Blue mixing with the Silver Ion from the Nature 2 cartridge. She said that a copper algaecide should be neutralized with a product that removes metal before swimmers can enter the water. Is this true? I am also not sure why the person that sold me the tub was using a dichlor that contained an algaecide in the first place (he gave me his chemicals too). I can imagine it would much harder to grow algae in portable tub that has a cover, vs a built in permanent hot tub that is exposed to sunlight. It was probably not necessary in the first place. Don't you need a lot of sunlight to grow algae? Here is a video link on youtube I found showing a reaction by mixing copper with silver nitrate: I found it Interesting that on the standard Nature 2 box, It specifically says that it is not compatible with Biguanide or Copper. On the Nature 2 box that is made specifically for Hotspring Spas (the one I had), it only mentions that it is not compatible with biguanide. They are both the same exact thing. I wonder if this was on over site from the Nature 2 manufacturer by not disclosing the copper incompatibility this for the Hotspring Spa version cartridge. On the flip side of the coin, I've seen some other types of Nature 2 cartridge for different applications that are made and have both copper and silver. Are there different types of copper and silver? What gives? I suspect that maybe I was very lucky, and that I didn't get badly hurt! So what does the Chemical Jury say? Could this likely have been the source that was irritating my skin?
  4. Looks like I found the answer sifting through all the red tape. I went ahead and ordered the Taylor K-2006 test kit as well as the boric acid as suggested from Duda Diesel. Despite having an ozonator, I'm gonna go ahead and give the dichlor/bleach method a go. This method seems to be the Gospel on here. Unfortunately, I've got one of those high power 24/7 ozonators that came stock with my Hotspring Spa. I'll have to see how fast is sucks my chlorine. Hopefully since it's a large 500 gallon spa, it won't be too bad. It seems like the others here that have tried the dichlor/bleach method, and that have ozonators are still ok with the program despite the extra work. I guess worst case scenario, I can always disconnect it. I'm not convinced that having an ozonator is all it's cracked up to be since they eat up the chemicals so fast.
  5. It seems as if a lot of people have trouble with unstable ph and that boric acid is the magic bullet. Are there any types of water care routines that boric acid is NOT compatible with? From reading posts, it appears that using Borax works to stabalize ph, however will raise it at the same time. Is there a formula so that if one used Borax, to figure out the amount of acid to add at the same time to offset the ph rise? Or is it always better to get and use boric acid (the real deal). Besides ordering online, might there be any type of local or Big Box, or specialty store that I could walk in and buy boric acid locally? If I order online, is there a recommended brand or place to buy? It seems as most are targeted towards insect control.
  6. I just purchased a used 2013 HotSpring Vista (500 Gallon) model hot tub from a private part on craigslist. It's just less than two years old and seems practically brand new. I cleaned it up, balanced the water. I've used it four times and now am fearful to even get into the tub. I see a lot of post speaking of itchy skin or red spots. I have neither of these problems. My skin feels like I a light sunburn all over and is pretty uncomfortable. There is NO REDNESS to indicate any inflammation, but a sense of warmth, and touching it somewhat hurts and sometimes a prickly feeling as if I rolled in some fiberglass. It's a feeling of radiation or chemical burn if I could describe it. It seems much more than just dry skin. My set up: It has an ozonator, I installed a nature 2 cartridge and am using Clorox Pool & Spa Shock Xtra Blue. I initially cleaned the spa shell with Natural Chemistry Clean & Pertect and rinsed it out. I cleaned the 5 ceramic filters with Spa Guard Filter Cleaner and spinned them with a high pressure nozzle. I filled the tub and adjusted the hardness up with Leslie's Hardness Plus (had to use a lot since my hardness was 0) which I believe is Calcium Carbonate. The PH and TA was high and used Sodium Bisulfate to bring it down. I super oxidized it with 3 TBSP of the Clorox Xtra Blue and waited 24 hours to enter the water until the chlorine burned off. Since then, all I've done is put in about a TBSP of the Clorox Xtra Blue after each use. I also had to add a fair amount of Spa Guard Anti-Foam because of excessive foaming. From my understanding I thought the point was that with the Nature 2 cartridge and ozonator, that I could simply just add a small dose of the Chlorine after every use with a weekly or biweekly shock. The idea being that once I enter the tub, there is nothing but clear clean water every time I go for a soak. My previous spa, I used the baqua-spa set up and never experienced any problems. I've just heard so much negative publicity with it, that I decided to continue with the chemical routine the original owner used since he gave me all of his chemicals too. I've never had a problem with Chlorine in an public pools and am not sure what my problem is now. My thoughts: 1) I noticed that the Clorox Xtra Blue has Dichlor-s-triazinetrione with Copper added to it. It seems as if the copper has been added as an additional benefit to help kill algae. Could the addition of copper be the potential catalyst? I see that they make another similar product called Clorox Pool & Shock Plus which doesn't have the copper. Would that be a better choice. Could it be a copper sensitivity? 2) I know the Nature2 cartridge has silver in it, but seems that other post might indicate there is copper in it too, or am I mistaken? Has anyone had a problem or sensitivity to Nature 2? 3) It doesn't seem that I can find anything on line speaking negatively of ozone. Has anyone on here heard of anyone having a sensitivity to Ozone causing skin irritability? 4) I found this thread and copied and pasted it below speaking of never letting your sanitizer go to 0. I thought that with my setup above I would be basically entering the tub with 0 chemicals in it. One of the hot tub vendors in my area said that's how they keep the tubs they wet test clean with no smell or chemicals. Could this be a potential problem of me being misinformed? 5) When I filled up the tub initially, some white granular stuff came out of the ozonator. It appeared to be some sort of undissolved pool chemicals. Is that even possible or a clue to something else? ----------------------------------------------------------------------- This post shows a table of all reported rash/itch problems, mostly reported on this forum, and the main pattern is having too low or no sanitizer -- either bromine or chlorine -- or longer-term usage after 1-1.5 months. With Dichlor, this is understandable due to the buildup of CYA. With bromine it is unclear of the cause in every case. Letting the sanitizer level get close to zero is an absolute no-no. It only takes from 15 minutes to an hour for most bacteria to double in population. That's up to an increase in population of over 4 billion in 8 hours if there were no limiting factors. So being lax for just one day is all it takes to have bacterial soup. This is one reason some people use Nature2 or other metal ion systems so that uncontrolled bacterial growth is kept in check even if you forget to add some sanitizer (metal ions kill more slowly than chlorine or bromine, but still fast enough to prevent uncontrolled bacterial growth in most cases). Use of an ozonator can help kill free-floating bacteria, but won't do anything for bacteria stuck to surfaces in biofilms. If you test your chlorine level (or bromine, if you go back to that) before you get in to soak, then if it's zero or near zero (< 0.5 ppm), do not go into the tub without adding some sanitizer first and then wait for a few minutes (depending on CYA level -- if CYA level is high, then wait 10 minutes or more), and retest to make sure the sanitizer is still there. Most people just do this initially and then know their "routine" and what their tub needs to maintain a sanitizer residual. Richard ------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) I see there are different types of Chlorine available. Is Dichloro-s-triazinetrione somehow different than the type used in public pools or spas? If so, could it react differently to my skin? I would like to make the chlorine system work. I am not in any hurry to go back to the baqua spa. Hopefully I've given enough information here and that one of you resident experts here might know something that could steer me in the right direction. I want to use my spa, not fear it! Thanks! JIm
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