derekmccrea

Thanks. Sorry for my confusion. Ia have tried two FLO switches both installed where the water flo makes the tab push against the post. Since I still have a FLO error is it possible that my tab may be too close to my post when the spa isn't running? Right now the tab is about one eight of an inch from the post when not running. Would that cause the FLO switch to think that it is closed? How far from the post does the tab need to to register as open? Maybe I need to bend it where it is maybe a half inch away?

So if the flo closed is when it is closest to the post, and of it needs to be closed when not running, then every chart I have seen is wrong. The flo switch is installed where the arrow that shows the direction of water flow places the barb on the side of water travel. This makes the flo switch closed when water is running into it. Is my flo switch barb suppose to face away from the direction of water travel? I installed like the below photo and this makes the flo close when running not when stopped.

Dang. Maybe my new flo switch is bad too. That seems the most logical. Maybe I will try a 3rd and see if that fixes the issue. I tried a different new board and can't imagine 2 boards having the same issue.

I will unscrew it and see if that helps. I looked at the probe thru the pipe after I installed it to make sure it was facing the right way and there was a third of an inch between the end of the probe and where the pipe is. Is the open position flo switch when the barb bends toward the probe? Then the closed position would be where the barb goes back to the way it "rests" when no water is flowing?

I have the solid flo but only after the spa reaches the set temp. So if my spa w a twr is 62 degrees and I set my topside panel to 98 the spa runs with no FLO error for the hours it takes to reach 98. As soon as it reaches 98 and the pump shuts off the solid FLO comes on. This happens regardless if I have the switch hooked up or not. If it is the switch then why wait 6 hours for the temp to reach the setting then come on when the pump stops?

I have an older style flo switch below. I dont think turning it would make a difference. I replaced it with a brand new one yesterday and it does the same thing. Then I replaced my board. Same problem. I guess I could replace the flo switch a 3rd time? The wiring and plugs are snug. I can disconnect the red wire from my flo switch and the spa runs fine. Until an hour later when the spa reaches temp. I can tie both red and wires together and bypass the flo switch. Same problem. Could this still be the flo switch? I don't understand how.

Part 3. If I disconnect the red wire from my flo sensor the spa runs the same …FLO error once it reaches temp. If I bypass flo by tying both flo wires together the same happens. Flo error once temp is reached. If I turn off power and Backwash cold water thru the pipes and turn the spa pack power back on the error is gone until it reaches temp again. Otherwise I have to leave the spa off for several hours to reset the flo error.

Another update. The FLO light comes on regardless if the red wire for the 2 speed pump is connected or not. What was making the FLO light go out was nackwashing cold water thru the lines to drop the temperature of the water in the spa.

My FLO error comes on once the spa reaches temperature. I replaced the FLO switch twice. No luck. I also tried the trick above about setting the cycle to start before my spa reaches temp. Still no luck. I have a 99 Sundance Optima with a 2 cycle pump. Update-- Replaced the board. Still same problem even with a new flo switch. Wires and pins are all clean and snug. If I disconnect the red wire that powers the high speed the flo error does not occur and the spa works correct just no hi. Could it be an internal electrical issue in the pump causing the FLO error? The pump can run lo and high prior to the spa reaching the set temp with no problem. What I find odd if the solid flo light comes on within seconds of the spa turning off after reaching temperature. Can't be the piping or the flo switch would register earlier than it is. Took pump apart and the impeller looks fine. If I run the spa without the red wire connected for hi and then plug in the red wire the flo error pops back up even if the spa isn't running. Does exact same thing with 2 different flo switches and 2 boards.

I have the exact same problem. My FLO error comes on once the spa reaches temperature. I replaced the FLO s we itch twice. No luck. I also tried the trick above about setting the cycle to start before my spa reaches temp. Still no luck. I have a 99 Sundance Optima with a 2 cycle pump. Can I do a similar work around for a 2 cycle pump that someone uses with a 24 hour pump? I tried and it didn't work. I have searched for months and see no way to ID the problem. My pump runs fine and so does my heater. Any ideas??

I forgot one thing. The instructions for the procedure are not in the operators manual or contained in the wiring diagram on the back side of the circuit board panel.

I am trying to find out how to wire my hot tub heater wiring. I was working on my hot tub and got interrupted right after taking off the wires and now cant recall where the wires go, red, green and black. The hot tub is a 1999 Sundance Optima 850 and the heater is a 6500-214, stainless steel with the 90 degree angle. The heater has no markings for where to reinstall the wires. Derek