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Posts posted by dg98adams

  1. See if you can find a gate valve like that.... the ones I have do not have screws.... but yeah a screw driver and a wire wheel on a drill will clear out the foam.

    Could be rebuildable..... maybe just gasket seal and an o-ring... but plan for cracks...

    you might disconnect one side from the pump.... then cut the pvc on the other side.... might need a coupler if you cut it...

  2. 220v spas heat and circulate when you are in them, wile 110v it's one or the other... so I would guess for your climate 220v is what you should look at... do you have a hook up, because a 50 or 60 amp 220v is not going to be cheap.

    The key is to keep warm water circulating all winter so you don't have pipes freeze, you can program the wamer warter temp when it's likely you will use it.

    A 6" cover with a a weather top canvas cover should minimize heat loss. I would assume any tub you are looking is full insulated (Blown foam).

    They key is to maintain the proper PH level... when it goes low or high it will damage seals and fixtures.  Most tubs use parts from several manufacturers., Big names I know of are Hot Springs and Sundance, but they are not in the cheap ranges.

    Personally, I never had any issues with my Sundance tub for at lest 8-9 years.  In that time my local dealer folded. Closest dealer was 75 miles away.  I used them for parts, and a local spa place for general parts. After 13 years I had a couple plumbing issues and a new cover was needed. I went after market.. didn't last 5 years. Controls and motors are still good, but I have had some other plumbing issues because I drained it and let it sit over a couple years..

    If I bought a new tub, I would want the best cover, and as much as as I could get for part numbers and specs, so you can mail order parts later on when you need it no matter what brand you buy.

    A local dealer is only as good as long as they are in business.



  3. I have an older Sundance (Cameo).


    I think mine heated when the filtering was running (220v).... the filtering was controlled by a mechanical timer switch that was user controlled for "how & when" in a 24 hour period... The timer switch went bad once, as I had replaced it.

    On the pump that you "freed up", is there rust between the pump and the motor on the shaft? You may have a leak there at the seal that caused the motor/shaft/bearings to wear.

    Also, have you checked the filter? when they clog up they can inhibit flow.


  4. Is your filter old? Can you remove it and get increased flow. Might be time to replace the filter.

    If I had the motor out and disassembled I would have at least had the bearings replaced. Maybe a new seal for the wet end? Did the wet test it? Confirm the impleller doe snot have broken or worn vanes?

    The start up capacitor at the end of the motor is relatively cheap as well.  Most any electrical motor shop can change bearings and capacitor cheaper than replacing the motor.





  5. I would say the venture valve is bad.. for as cheap as it is, just replace it.

    Although since you had it tipped up water could be going where it normally would not be.... but easier now to just replace it.

    Usually the jet body (not the removable inner portion) is sealed to the tub with ... sealant. On some jets bodies there is a pvc ring on the back side you can tighten.. But don't put too much torque on it... From the factory they are just a smidgen beyond hand tight. I don't know about your spa but the face plate is usually decorative...

    I rebuilt the frame on my tub last year and it got too cold to finish off putting the motors in...

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