Roger

Likely for an option you don't have. Maybe another pump and it's plumbing. Which isn't there. But when the shell is cast a hole ends up in the top lip so they use a diverter handle to hide the hole. Don't splash so much. Or seal it.

That should be enough to run a low speed pump and the heater. Must have some jumpers to change. Ask your dealer to change it.

Just because it's wired for 220V does not mean it has enough amps to run both. How many amps is the circuit to the tub? Or there's a possibility the jumpers are set wrong.

How did you determine he was in the UK? If that's the case, who's in your area? Google it.

Saved 4000 over what? There's value tubs out there selling for 4000 more? Now that would be a crappy deal. If your going to spend 4000 more please get a more powerful, more comfortable longer lasting tub.

Not necessarily junk just not in the same league. If you want a tub that lasts 5-8 years and you may get lucky and get a bit longer buy the cheaper brands. If you want something that will last longer 15-20 years then go with HS, Sundance or possibly Artesian. And expect the lower quality less expensive options to use more electricity.

Do a wet test to avoid the pitfalls of a lounger or not for you. Run as fast as you can away from Master and some swimmers name on a hot tub. He's a stoned swimmer, not a hot tub designer.

Yep

So there is nothing inside that will identify it? Tough one there are literally hundreds of manufacturer it could be. Do you have a local guy you can bring them to? Maybe he sold it?

The board now has a Four Winds salesman on it. I wish he would of introduced himself.

Yea I'm impressed. Considering it's age though I would likely not invest to much and sell it for the start to your bit more modern 5-8 year old tub. When you initially said you were having a flow issue. My first though was air bubbles gathering from cavitation or a blockage. Or needed to be bled.

I would take the Sundance over the BF. If you can't get the HS Designing tubs now, Rolls Royce before.....LOL Good one. Sales 101

Sorry it took so long to get to you. I don't have the control box specs but I would check resistance through the heater first and suspect that, with that error. Could be the hardware they are talking about. 3-4 years on a heater can happen depending on a lot of factors. Does it pump with or without the heater hooked up?

Unplug your components one at a time (blower, ozone, pumps) and see if you can get it to stay on. If not it may be in your control box. Power off for each component.

There are many water proof/resistant types of insulation to use. Google it. You could even use plain batten insulation but use plastic under it and over the upper and lower edges of it. It's easy to cut (if need be) and tape back together. Staple it in and leave a foot or so on the top and bottom. Put in your battens and then fold the extra plastic over the top and bottom and staple. Or leave the bottom a 1/4 inch up or so depending on the dampness around the tub.

I'm glad you are trying to meet your needs through a reputable dealer instead of a web page/box store. Most times the box store route results in a great price but a less than stellar soaking, energy use, longevity experience.

Relying on a manufacturers web site for honest advice on a purchase of anything is a bad idea.

I think you need to get an insulating cover instead of one that doesn't insulate. Your heat loss will cost an arm and a leg. Makes a cover that doesn't insulate like yours cost more in the long run.

If you could get your hands on a techs topside to test your board that would be good. Do you have a dealer that will let you try one? Tell him you'll buy the board and topside from him if it turns out to be that. I'm a new parts tech sorry. I have 3-4 different topsides plus access to a bunch more that work with about anything. If I plug a good topside in and it still doesn't work I replace the board. Assuming your sensors and power source are good. Sounds like you know enough about checking those. Clean the pins on the cords and contact surfaces on the board good.

The flapper is at the filter housing and allows water to bypass the filter when the pump is on high.

Could be your flappers are stuck open or broke and not working properly also is there's more water going through the suctions versus the filter. Or your pump is simply always on high speed in which case it would pull from the foot well suctions more. Your pump should pull more from the filters on low if the plumbing is correct.

I hope you can make an enzyme based system work. Seems everyone I know who has tried it has failed. Maybe if your use is limited enough?

Bojour' there are a bunch of good brands and those three are all good. It will be hard for us to tell you which is better. Sit in them. And if they will fill them even better. Comfortable on your butt/wallet and comfortable with the vendors sales/service record/reputation. See if you can get a few customers of theirs to call you and give a review.

How does the topside plug into what type of controller? Some times the old ones can be tough to pry off. Clean the surface thoroughly before installing the new one. Don't rely on the peel off sticky surface on the new controller. Don't be stingy on the silicone sealer but wipe off the excess good. Some times I use colored sealer to try and match the tub color. Most newer tubs about 2000 or so and later have phone cord type plug ins. With the controller brand we can direct you to the right manufacturer for OEM parts. Sometimes they are easier to install and/or program. And upgrades to an OEM compatible topside may have it back lit but your controller may not be sending power for that function.

Those systems are notoriously troublesome. Even the best factory installed system is questionable after a few years. If it wasn't factory installed it likely won't change the track record much. They are outside in a wet, cold, hot, dry, weathery environment. How old?