MikeThePoolman

Ive never seen a 240 volt pool light. Are you sure you don't mean 120 volts? Is the GFCI tripping after 10 minutes or is the light bulb going dark?

I concur with Spa Guru. Barbed fitting is backwash to waste fitting. connect a discharge hose with plumbers clamp when back-washing. 3/4" pipe with gate valve is likely a pressure side cleaner line that runs to the pool but is unused. (e.g. Polaris 280). NOTE: the heater MUST be sized properly or it will fail prematurely. Determine the size of the gas line and the length of gas line pipe from the meter and refer to a sizing chart. if you oversize the heater is will soot and fail prematurely. Hopefully the gas line is big enough to deliver volume to a 399,000 BTU heater (the largest allowed on residential pools).

I love Jandy but that heater has had MANY issues. Cut your losses and buy a new heater. I am very good at heater repair and I've been down this road too many times- repair, another repair, another repair, $900 later and you've got an 11 year old heater that's still temperamental. Go Pentair or Sta-Rite and you'll be fine. Mike

Hello, great description. The valve actuator just needs to be re-calibrated. Its a little tricky but not rocket science. Remove the the four screws that secure the actuator lid. Pull of the lid/ cap and you'll expose the internals of the actuator including the wires and cams and motor. If you watch the cams rotate back and forth on the output shaft center axle you'll see the actuator stops when the pumps on the cams make contact with the stainless steel switch. You will hear a "click". By loosening the nut on the axle you can then gently move the bumps on the cams to the correct position. use the toggle switch on the actuator to rotate it back and forth until you get it to stop in both positions you desire. Snug down the cams by securing the nut above the cams and test again (sometimes the settings move if you aren't gentle when tightening the axle screw. Viola, you should be in business. Put the top back on the pool valve actuator and it should stop where you want it to with no excess water bypassing the valve. Make sense? Happy fine tuning and take care, Mike the Poolman

I've been in the same situation. At this point i would replace the temp sensor. Its either the sensor or teh board. Pray its the sensor Sincerely, Mike the Poolman

I have the Sta-Rite Intellipro variable speed pump on my pool. I love it because it fits so many different application and pools. AND, it saves a TON of money. Here are some details on variable speed pumps that i have posted on my site: http://mikethepoolman.com/swimming-pool-variable-speed-pool-pumps

Draining a swimming pool is a last resort for me. I've had success using the Pool Rx for all algae issues, including black algae. The Pool Rx key: the Pool Rx is most effective when the cyanuric acid (conditioner) level is below 30 ppm (and you probably already know that the only way to lower conditioner levels are to drain and refill with fresh water). If draining is your only option you can scrub the algae spores with a wire brush and then pour liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) over the algae to kill it. Some people like muriatic acid over black algae but i prefer liquid chlorine. WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T COMBINE CHLORINE AND ACID!! Happy Algae Killing, Mike