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Cooper772

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About Cooper772

  • Birthday 06/03/1978

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  1. How many fluid ounces per person per hour for 8.25% Clorox bleach?
  2. Doing a Tub decon. Have finished the flush cleaned and drained. Its filling now then I will balance the water and will add 50ppm of chlorine. I'm a little concerned about letting that water out and letting it drain down the road and onto the edge of neighbors yards. Should I be that concerned about that? would It be a waste of time if I shock to only about 25ppm? I have read about hydrogen peroxide to lower the chlorine but, saw that someone had mentioned they didn't recommend doing that, I think because if to much is left behind after the dump it could cause trouble with the new fill. one last thing, after the fill before I add the chlorine, can I balance with cold water or should i let it warm up? Thanks in advance.
  3. It did produce some biofilm, just not as much as I had expected. I did not have the filter in the tub during the purge as the instructions says to do because I was replacing with a new filter.
  4. So I just ran a dose of Ahh-Some spa flush, and I'm amazed at how little gunk was left on the spa shell. I have used it a few times before and it really left behind a ton of nasty green gunk, that I'm assuming is biofilm. The hot tub had not been used all summer and still had water in it from last winter. Earlier in the summer we had been somewhat good about adding a dose of bleach every now and then each week, but then eventually got lazy and neglected to do anything with the water. Early yesterday, I put a large dose of bleach in it.( about 1/8 of a gal.) not sure what the FC was after putting it in but later last night before going to bed it was 12ppm. This morning before flushing and draining it was 6.5. I put in the Ahh-Some and ran it for about 45 min. and its currently draining. I'm just surprised that there isn't much biofilm left behind. Is it possible that there just wasn't much present since, last winter we did pretty good with keeping it sanitized and then for awhile after not using it in the spring and summer but keeping up on the sanitation for awhile?
  5. I'm running low on many of my test chemicals and while looking online I noticed they sell 16oz bottles. I'm sure this if for the pool/spa pros that use this stuff a lot on several pools/spas. I'm wondering though if these chemicals have a shelf life and if it would be ok if I bought these to use and to just keep the .75oz. bottles full that came with the kit. The droppers of the small bottles come right off and the bottle could be filled. All together buying the bigger bottles would cost me a little over twice as much as the smaller bottles but I would not have to buy test chemicals for years this way, as long as they don't expire. This forum has been a great asset for me in keeping my hot tub, and hopefully someone here will know the answer to this question. Thanks in advance. Josh
  6. This maybe what PreservedSwine is referring to, the few times I have used a product to make water clear I have had gunk like that at the water line. Can't remember the name of the product but best I understand about how it works is that it coagulates what ever is making your water cloudy so then the filter will catch it. Have you used anything like that to clear cloudy water?
  7. Hot tub is currently warming up from a fresh refill. I have started testing the water and come up with a couple questions. water temp at time of test was 68, TA=60ppm, is that acceptable for using the dichlor then bleach method or should I for sure lower it to 50? pH=8.6 will lowering the pH using Sodium Bisulfate also lower the TA closer to 50ppm? Second question is CH is 70ppm, and I do not have any Calcium Chloride on hand, small town I live has no pool supply shops, but tomorrow afternoon I will have a chance to buy some. My question is if I go ahead and adjust everything, TA,pH,add Boric Acid, shock to 10ppm, then raise the CH tomorrow afternoon, will I be ok, or do I need to wait until I can raise it before I go any further? As always thanks in advance for the help!!
  8. Chem geek, thank you for all your help. I have ordered boric acid, and now Im looking for a testing method. Reading some reviews on test strips, Im finding that many say its somewhat of an issue comparing colors on the strips. I have seen discussion on a couple different forums about the drop test sold by a company in Canada, but following the link does not take me to the actual test. I think the most recent discussion I have found was in 2012. Is this test something that is still available? Between the two test kits I have already for testing my water I basically have the K-2006 test kit (K-1005 i-care, and K-1515-c FAS-DPD CHLORIEN TEST) so Im only missing S-0009 and S-0010 If I can't get the borate drop kit is there a way to get the needed reagents to perform the test?
  9. So I think I'm going to do a water change soon to try to get CYA in check and start using bleach once CYA gets built up. Should I just use borax that you can get from walmart our something different, I have found online hexaborate should I use that. Also using pool math with spa size being 400 gal it says to use 15 oz by weight or 16 by volume boric acid to get 50 ppm. Is that calculation correct? I'm using the calculator on a ipad so just want to make sure it works. As always thanks for the help!!!
  10. Tonight I tested CYA and it is very high. I'm wanting to start using bleach to bring it down, but have questions about dosage. so with the sodium dichloro-s 56% available chlorine that I have been using, I have been doing .03oz/100gal. to raise chlorine 1ppm.(maintaining it at 3-5 ppm) So if using bleach, how much do I use to raise chlorine 1ppm? And would I be correct in needing to keep an eye on the CYA level dropping so that once it is less then 30ppm I can dose with dichloro to maintain CYA within correct range? I recently did a water change, which was the first change in a brand new tub, and I did use Sea Klear. (some real nasty green greasy stuff came out) Thanks,
  11. So I have had my spa for a couple months now. I thought i had things going pretty well with my water but now I have the issue that my TA is at 120ppm, but PH is showing 6.8. If i use the spa up to get my PH in line will it not then raise TA to above what is recommended? (120ppm) We use the hot tub almost ever day and I have been using shock and chlorine after every soak. I'm considering just using more chlorine after each soak instead of it and shock, after being told that using that much shock could show up as CC when testing. Would the use of shock also effect PH but not TA? or the use of so much chlorine use from using the tub a lot effect the PH but not TA? What steps can I take to get PH back up without raising TA? I plan on doing a water change as soon as I can but its to cold here right now to do that. Thanks
  12. So here is what I have done, and it seems to be working. Nobody has been in the tub for a couple days. Two days ago I shocked and added some chlorine. When I got home this morning I tested chlorine 0 FC and 2 TC. so that would mean I have a CC of 2 right? According to the booklet that came with my test kit it says to reduce CC is breakpoint chlorination, and that would be my CCx10 which in my case is 20. The chart in the booklet doesn't have the exact % of available chlorine as the product I have so I went with the closest % that was less then what I have. That was 45%. The math was .03x4 (400gal)=.12 .12x20=2.4 oz. added that amount of chlorine cycled the pumps and tested. My kit is a color match and the color exceeded the color on the comparator, but actual ppm I do not know. Now several hours later the color matches 5 ppm FC and TC. Water looks much clearer then it has. Am I on the correct path? My plan is after tomorrow when I replenish chlorine, and shock oxidizer that I will use both after each soak. Thanks again for the help. I hope I'm getting this figured out. I have also ordered the Taylor k-1515-c in order to get more precise chlorine readings. And to answer the question, yes it is a new spa, so I have ordered seaklear.
  13. Hello, I'm hoping to find answers to FC chlorine issues that I am having also. I am new to for forum and new to hot tub water chem. We have a 400 gal. Strong spa that has an ozonator. The trouble I am having is that once done using the spa I will sanitize it, using Sodium dichlor-s-triazinetrione 2 teaspoons. the instructions on the back call for 1/2 teaspoon per 100gal. After I let the pumps run for 15 min. or more and I test it with a test strip FC readings are correct, however next day ill come back and check and it will be 0. Three of use the spa just about everyday at the sametime. to give you an idea of the other pramaters of my water I'll share the other levels I have checked using a Taylor K-1005 test kit. PH 7.5, TA100, CA 100, I did this test shortly after adding chlorine so at this point FC 3, CC 2. One thing I will ad is that we started using the tub got warm enough to add chemiclals and the readings on the test strips that came with or starter pack were within range( not sure if our impatients may play a part in the problem). Also The shock oxidizer states it is a weekly use on the front but on the back it says to use after every use. ( I have not been using it after every use). Should I be using the sanitizer and shock after every use. Also water is somewhat cloudy and gets foamy when all jets are on. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for everyones time and help.
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