kembel

Thank you very much for your time, talents and guidance.

Understood on the borates. I'll probably not add it this time. Good info on the salt too. My tub size is 370 gallons and a Jacuzzi Model 345. I'm not sure if this model is OK for the auto chlorination. If anyone knows I'd appreciate a little feedback. I think the key was testing for CYA. I actually did not use that much since the CYA target was 20-30ppm. Having a Taylor K-2005 testing kit is key for water management. Would you recommend a change at 3 months regardless of water clarity based on my usage?

I do add Dichlor when needed. I test for it. What's more impressive is my (and wife) high usage (5 times per week, 40-60 minutes per soak) did not hinder the method's success. I was shooting for 6 months on the water and was confident I'd get there. You did not comment on the use of Bromate. Can you give me any insite? What are your thoughts of a saltwater chlorine generator? I've read about them but not sure they're for me with my high usage.

It's hard to say how long the FC was zero. But it was hours (one time). Also, I do remember the walls feeling a bit slimy at one time after that. I thought the acrylic was a little slimy because of the recently added Borate (recommended by Nitro for softening the water) so I didn't pay it particular attention, but I did notice it. Tub seems normal now after a zap of high Chlorine over the weekend, but I'm taking no chances. New filters and Nature 2 are here and I'm doing a water change this weekend (water 4-5 months old but always clear). What sucks.........If I miss just one day checking for FC (say I'm sick) I may contaminate the water, a bit frustrating. Thanks for all the great advise and links! Wish me luck on a grow-back......

Man you're good Chem Geek! I had used "splashless".

Got another tidbit. Just did a little relaxing and was very surprised by what happened when I added Clorox bleach (unscented). Remember, I have pH Lock in the water. I had been using a off-brand bleach but read where Clorox was recommended because of its lower pH. So tonight I used it for the first time. After adding the correct amount, I was greeted by the foam monster. So much foam that the tub was over-run. Any idea what the heck just happened?

Thank ya much for all your input and advise!

OK, thanks for you perspective on the pH Lock additive. It is handy for those that are not interested in water chemistry and want to keep it simple. But heavy use users will definitely have to deal with some foam. I don't have an ozonator and do not use bromine so that's not part of the equation when traveling. With the pH Lock I now have in the water Ph shouldn't be a problem next month when we're away for 6 days. But disinfection, as you note, will be the challenge. Tossing in 5 lbs of salt and hanging a $290.00 generator wouldn't be my first choice. Any other tricks to try? Due to the loss of chlorine and the phosphate food the algae will enjoy due to the pH Lock additive I can just see returning from my trip to a green bath of algae.

Since I already have pH lock in the water, I think I'll follow your TA/Borates method after my next water dump (hopefully in 3-5 months). Going forward (with my current batch of water), my thought is to get the CYA back up to 20-30 (should only take a couple days) and simply add bleach as needed. Any foaming will have to be knocked down with a de-foaming additive. Here's my observation......It appears monitoring TA and CH is futile with pH lock in the water. Both tests radically changed after adding pH lock. Thoughts? What is your brutally honest thought of using pH lock? After starting the TA/Borates routine, what is your recommendation to a user that needs to travel for 7-10 days and is unable to monitor his water?

I'm a newbie to the hot tub world and have enjoyed reading all that this forum has to offer (chem geek rocks). I've learned much (a dangerous thing). But this pH lock additive has got me stumped. Is it recommended or not? I used it at first, then got my test kit which indicated no calcium harness based on no color change to red. So I added a bit of calcium hardness and bang! a hot tub of milk. That the heck happened? I dumped the tub and wiped down the white film tub (calcium I think) and refilled. I tested the water and got the CH to 90 TA to 80 and pH to 7.4. I then added pH lock. Now the test kit acts like there's no hardness and the TA has jumped to 160. Now what happened? Not sure what to do? Water is now clear after filtering about 2 hours using full pumps.