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KendallB

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  1. I can indeed do the job, and have decades of experience wiring 120V circuits. However, do not have any code books, and can't find much guidance online. I have a number of wiring textbooks as well, but they don't go into detail on 3-wire vs. 4-wire 230V circuits other than the basics. Can't afford an electrician, as the job is already going to cost quite a bit to do and was hoping for some simple guidance on 3-wire vs. 4-wire receptacles. The current circuit (and previous single-speed pump) is wired as a 3-wire circuit with 3-prong receptacles, but wanted to bring everything up to current code, and know if I should be doing something differently than what I have. Hoping someone can steer me in the right direction other than calling an electrician. Thank you.
  2. Just purchased a variable speed motor (10A max), and decided to completely re-wire from the house to the pool. Old switches and receptacles were rusty, etc and seemed like a good time to upgrade everything. Running 10-gauge wire out to pool inside pvc conduit the entire length. Would like to install a plug end on the pool motor instead of hard-wiring, so I can easily remove pump/motor assy for the winter here in CT. Using a US MOTORS/EMERSON ECOTECH EZ #EVSJ15-NS Variable Speed Motor wired for 230V. Motor only calls for 3-wire connection (L1-black, L2-red, and Ground-Green). However, when I look at 30A and 50A receptacles, appears latest code (after 1996) calls for 4-wire receptacles and plugs for 230V appliances. I have a 4-conductor 10g wiring running from main panel to the GFCI enclosure on the house. Should/can I run 3 wires out to pool (eliminating white wire), install a 3-prong receptacle, and run a 3-prong plug-in from the motor. Or, should I run 4 wires out to pool, install a 4-prong receptacle, use a 4-wire plug on the motor, but just not connect the white wire? Don't want to run 4th wire out too pool, if it's not going to be used, and at cost of copper wire (x 60 ft), seems like a waste, unless req'd by code. And. . . if required by code, why isn't a brand new VS motor setup for a 4-wire connection? I am obviously mounting everything in weatherproof boxes (was planning to use 30A or 50A weatherproof enclosures from GE designed for outdoor RV hookups). Hoping some electricians chime in and can lend some guidance. Trying to wire and pick up parts this weekend, so any comments today would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  3. Notes: In-ground vinyl pool liner with alum. coping, built around 1976. Location: CT Dug up return line to repair a leak in the pipe. While uncovered, found that the the steel pool wall below the return fitting is wet and leaving a v. small puddle in the hole. Tried snugging up the cyclo-nut on the backside of the wall, but that didn't help (already fully tight). Also replaced the faceplate and gasket with new screws - didn't help either. Planning to remove and replace the entire fitting. It's not a big leak, but while the hole is dug out, might as well do it now. Looks like I have to pull the fitting out from the liner-side of the wall. Which I assume means: draining the water below fitting, unclipping liner in the area that needs repair (assume I only unclip the minimum length needed to get my hands behind the liner and pull the fitting?), unscrewing the nut behind the wall, loosening the 4 faceplate screws and removing the faceplate. Assume the fitting would not pull out from behind liner? Installation is the reverse. **What I need are some tips to save time and hassle. I can handle/repair most anything mechanical, but have never messed with liner removal/reinstall. - how do I remove the liner in the "repair area"? Assume I need to pull "up" to unlock it from the bead lock in the aluminum coping? How do I pull the liner up and out easily without tearing the liner, or starting way down at the corner where it already has popped out of the track? - I have read articles about people using buckets or stryofoam coolers with a hole cut out at the top and a rubber seal at the end to prevent having to drain the pool below the fittings, but assume this makes it difficult to impossible to get behind a liner. I would see this trick working on a non-liner pool wall. The only thing I could see working would be a LARGE 4-sided box, large enough to allow behind-liner access. . . . . but I don't think I'm going to build something that I'll hopefully only have to use once. I hate draining water this low to prevent liner shrinkage, etc. It's late in the season, and not a lot of sun. . .so should be OK. Any other solutions to not having to drain the pool? - When I re-install the new SP-1408 fitting, should I put some silicone sealer around the flange that goes against the pool wall? If so, what's the best sealer you guys have found? Or, should I hand-cut a round rubber gasket for underneath the flange? I don't want to have the same problems again. What's the best way to "seal" the fitting against the wall? - I haven't purchased the SP-1408 fitting yet, but from the install instructions on the Hayward site, it looks like the faceplate gasket actually goes BEHIND the liner - between the liner and the SP-1408 fitting. Is this the correct position? Should I perhaps put a faceplate gasket both behind AND in front of the liner? Where is it supposed to go to best prevent water intrusion? - Is there a more suitable replacement return fitting other than the SP-1408 (even if from a mfg. other than Hayward - Pentair, etc)? I looked at the SP1423, which is available with 2 separate flange gasket OR a "sandwich" gasket for the wall. However, the flange diameter is smaller than the SP1408, and this wouldn't be preferable, if there are any issues with the condition of the wall underneath the fitting. - Once installed, what's the best way to stretch the liner and clip back in place? Assume I will need a hair dryer to heat the liner, stretch and tuck bead back in the track? Any tips/tricks for getting the liner back in place without damaging liner or making it "thinner" from stretching? - Hopefully my screw holes in the liner will all line up and I can screw the faceplate back on without issues. I know the fitting OD is keyed, so this 'shouldn't' be an issue. - If anyone can't walk me through the complete procedure, I would appreciate tips for any of the individual steps (removing/unlocking liner in repair area, etc). I need to get this fixed before buttoning up pool for winter, and before liner gets too cold/'unstretchy' to R&R without damage - already in the 40's at night here in CT. - Any other tips/tricks that you pros could advise me on for this job? Want to do it RIGHT and want to do it ONCE. Can send pictures, if that would help anyone. Thanks in advance.
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