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dolfan

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  1. I just restarted my spa after having it off for some time. Did the cleaning and rinsing and then filled it up. When the water level was correct I powered the spa back on, left the mode in standard and set the temp way down to about 81 matching ambient temp as I'm just making sure all is good before heating things up. I tested pumps #1 and #2 and they operate fine on high and low. Also I could see the circulation pump running with the little bubbles trickling from the port. Then it just brought up the FLO warning, the solid FLO now blinking. With the sides off and viewing the flow switch I reset the power to get the system to reset and it is fine, If I run any of the main pumps it shows the switch making contact. Now the interesting part, I reset the system again and this time I move the temp setting up to 84, and the circulation pump runs just fine, I can hear it and also see the bubbles. Then I back the temperature down to 81 which was about the temp and after cooling the heater is stops the circulation pump. This is where I'm not sure about things, since I'm on 24hour mode I would expect the pump to continue even after the heat is gone from the heater. So after maybe 3-10 minutes when I return the FLO warning is back and of course nothing is happening with the spa. So to me it seem like the switch is OK as it does seem to move and work in some modes. The circulation pump will operate its not dead. Would this then point to the pump relay or the master control board??? Any ideas what a DIY guy can do now to trouble shoot? Thanks, Dolfan
  2. Well I've got a slow leak problem with my spa, I've seen several different "leak" product and just wonder what people's experience with these products has been. I've seen two types, one is the type that you add to the water and it "Finds" and "Seals" the leak??? The other product I'm curious about is a thing called Plast-Aid, it is a PVC repair product that is like an epoxy that can be applied to hoses, fittings etc. All comment welcomed, my spa has been offline for too long, it's time to fix it!
  3. Great input, when I get ready to replace mine I'll know that there are some new things to look for. I realize that the formed/solid type would have some restrictions, but many top I've seen are just square or hex of a certain size so I would have expected the same thing. Either way no problem, not looking to break into the business with an new product :-)
  4. Just curious, it seems that covers have not changed really in 10-20 years, why not something new. I know it might be a bit more expensive going in but the vinyl clad material based solution seems poor for something that has to endure the elements. Has any one considered a fiberglass/plastic shell material that would stand up to greater exterior issues like sun and moisture? The foam core could be put into the underside and be sealed in place or maybe even made replaceable? Seems like with the advances in boatbuilding materials this would have made it's way here too? Maybe I just don't get it?
  5. I have a very similar symptom with my 1998 Sundance Altamar. I also am getting the FLO code. Monday I got this FLO code so I removed the filter and restarted the system and it was fine. I installed a new clean filter and let it go and it was OK until last night and I see the FLO again. I have the side covers off to see the flow switch that is transparent working. When I bump up the temp, the pump kicks in to run the heater and I see the flow switch making contact. When I bring the temp down I can watch as the pump stops and the flow switch opens up and hear the heater kick off. It would seem that the switch is working??? When it was running I put my hand in to check and I do get decent flow. I would get the flow switch and install it without testing a thing if I thought it would work especially for around $40 or so, but I just am not sure. Can I check the resistence/continuity or something else of the switch witha meter to get a better idea.
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