Hot Spring Official

Although that pump is no longer being produced for Hot Spring Spas, it is still for sale as a complete pump assembly from retailers online. You're welcome to call me, I'm Mike, at Watkins Wellness customer service department (800) 999-4688 ext. 8432, I can give you dealer contact information.

You may want to double check your serial number. A 2005 Grandee with serial numbers that begin with "G" have the heater on the 30A circuit, those beginning with "GG" should have the heater on the 20A circuit.

The water flow coming from the circulation pump first goes through the heater, and then on to and out of the return fitting in the bottom of the spa. This water flow creates the suction that draws air from the ozonator's airline. This air drawn from the ozonator is the source of the bubbles you are looking for. Check for clogged ozone airlines, a clogged ozone intake, and also double check and confirm there is water flow coming out of the return fitting into the spa.

1. 1. It's recommended to run the clean cycle when adding your spa chemicals to distribute them as q 2. Additional chlorine granules are added when the free chlorine level in your water is depleted. Spa test strips will show you the free chlorine level 3ppm-5ppm is the ideal range. 3. Silver Ion cartridges are usually good for 3-4 months 4. Sorry, no info for you here 5. Many folks drain and refill every 3-4 months, that schedule will vary with the size of the bather load, tub size, and the types of chemicals that are being used. 6. I recommend rinsing the filters bi-weekly and chemically cleaning them every 3-4 months for the best results

It's possible for the spa to go into the protection mode (blinking red power light) when the water temperature is too cold or too hot, usually outside the range of 50°F-118°F. This often occurs when something is obstructing circulation, when a spa is refilled with very cold water, or when a thermistor needs to be replaced.

Starman is correct, holding the back button will allow the display to rotate back to the original position.

A component with a ground fault is more likely to trip the GFCI breaker it's powered by. When wired correctly, the jet pump and the heater will be powered by two different circuits which should eliminate the heater as a suspect.

It's much more likely that your problem is in the pump rather than in your control panel since that breaker holds with the pump disconnected.

No voltage or incorrect voltages on the terminal block indicate a wiring problem.

Hi, where in Europe are you located?

The 20A circuit supplies power to your heater.The 30A breaker will power up the electronic spa controls and pumps. Please double check your incoming circuit voltages. If you are connected correctly at the terminals you should have 240V between terminals 5 & 6 with just the 30A breaker powered up. Please also note pump #1 appears to have been disconnected from the circuit board in the picture, and will not come on until that is reconnected.

The best place to find this information is the California Energy Commission website https://cacertappliances.energy.ca.gov/Pages/Search/AdvancedSearch.aspx 1. Click the link 2. Select appliance type, category = Pool Products, Appliance = Portable Electric Spas, Appliance Status = Approved 3. Select filters to display: Manufacturer, Brand 4. Then filter by: Manufacturer = Watkins Manufacturing Co.

That part is a jumper that connects on the circuit board where the previous heater's pressure switch cable was connected. It is possible to reuse the plug end from the previous heater/pressure switch by cutting it off and making it into a jumper.

Is it possible that water may have gotten into the equipment area while you were using the spa? I'd start with an inspection of the equipment/ control box area first. If nothing is obvious there, you'll want to check for a possible short in your jet pump or heater. Disconnect one or both of these components from the control system before resetting your breaker. If the breaker holds then the disconnected component likely has the problem or short.

It sounds like your issue is likely in that pump. You can verify this with a voltage/multi meter. You should be able to measure 120v going to the jet pump when testing across the black and white wires that supply power to the pump when that pump is supposed to be running. If there is 120v getting sent to the pump and the pump won't come on you'll want to replace that pump.

Most newer replacement heaters will require a pressure switch bypass jumper (p/n 72768) be installed on the PCB where the previous pressure switch cable is plugged in.

It's very likely that the control head is the cause of that issue.

Please double check to verify your temp lock feature hasn't been inadvertently activated. There should be an icon in the control panel display indicating whether has taken place. To deactivate the TEMPERATURE LOCK, press the LIGHT plus (+) and TEMP plus (+)buttons at the same time and hold them down until the lock symbol is no longer illuminated on the display (approximately two seconds).

If the equipment compartment looks dry, and you still suspect a leak, you'll want check the interior insulated areas of the spa you don't usually see. To do this, I recommend removing the side panels and visually check for wet insulation. You can also probe the insulation with a wooden dowel to see if there is evidence of a leak further in the insulation when the outer insulation is dry. If the dowel comes out dry after probing you may want to check the other sides the same way. If you do confirm an in foam leak you can add dye to the water that will stain the insulation around the source of the leak. This should narrow down your search and repair area. Unfortunately there is not one common leaky area I'm aware of to concentrate your search on.

The classic model F spa does require a subpanel containing both a 20A and a 30A two pole GFCI breaker be used to power the spa. You will need to have your electrician follow the wiring instructions provided in your manual for proper spa operation. If you need a manual we'd be happy to email you one we'll just need you to contact Watkins customer service dept. Please have your spa serial number available when you call for spa identification.

That does sound like a short in your heater, you'll want to replace it to stop the breaker from tripping.

Unfortunately there is no way to bypass the spa's protection mode. It'd probably be better to see if there is something inhibiting your flow to and from the filter that could be causing that to happen. I recommend checking the operation of the weir gate in the filter compartment to make sure it's not getting hung up and slowing water flow, call your dealer for service if this is the case. Please also evaluate the products you are putting in the spa. Some water clarifiers can clog a spa filter pretty quickly.

This looks like it is repairable, but I do have a few additional questions for you. Please call Watkins Mfg. customer service department Mon- Fri 8-5 PST (800)999-4688 Ext. 8432 and ask for Mike.

The control head, part #73225, is the part you'll want to change at this time.