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Hot Spring Official

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Everything posted by Hot Spring Official

  1. The Prodigy is a great tub and may be the best choice if it just you and your wife. The Vanguard is larger and has two pumps plus the Bellafontana water feature. The Aria and Vanguard are the same size, but the Aria has the lounge and the Vanguard has 2 Moto-Massage jets. Hope you can find the spa that works for your family.
  2. Your spa was designed to use a 230volt 2hp pump. You should stay with the original equipment available from local dealer.
  3. Always best to have OEM, then you are getting the correct pump for your spa. Your local dealer would know which pump it takes and can install it for you.
  4. If your pump is not working it is best to replace the entire pump. Your local dealer would have a new pump that you could have them replace.
  5. Ready light will blink because of the control thermistor. Make sure it is connected properly and has the same ohm value as the hi-limit thermistor.
  6. Changing the top side should not affect the program of the main board, so it should still know it has 2 pumps. All 3 wires need to be connected for the pump to work, and you should also have an external copper bonding wire on all the pumps and heater. Please check with your local dealer if you have any questions to verify your tub is working safely and properly.
  7. Green LED blinking is an issue with the CONTROL thermistor. The spa will not heat if the green is blinking. You should contact your local dealer for a service call.
  8. When you replaced the control board, did you verify the correct jumpers for a 2 pump Tiger River? If you can't find the original control panel, you have 2 options. Best option is to have your dealer install the Eagle box retrofit. Other option is to have the dealer install a Hotspring control panel on the front of the spa. The same control box can be used, just a different control panel.
  9. Did you install the correct OEM heater from Watkins? Did you install the pressure switch to the correct connector? You may have burned the pressure switch connector, and it will not heat. Have a technician install the new parts and confirm correct parts and connections.
  10. Where did you buy your new heater and the other parts? Parts not bought from a dealer may not work properly. Did you plug in the pressure switch from the heater properly. What spot on the board is burnt? Have the dealer tech install the new parts, verify proper software, and locations of all the connections in the control box.
  11. When you say the pump comes on ( jet level 1 ), is that Jet pump 1 low speed? When jet pump 1 comes on in low speed are you seeing the 2 rows of dashes that would indicate a pressure switch error. If you do not get the dashes and the pump is running, might be the heater. Either way, you should call your dealer for a service call.
  12. That part number should work. You should make sure you use the correct silicone to seal it to the bar top. If you do not use Dow Corning 839 you can damage the electronic components in the control board. Your local dealer should have both for you, and would be your best source for a service call.
  13. Your voltage readings do not look good. You should have a licensed electrician come out and check your power connections. You could also consult your local dealer for assistance.
  14. You may just need a new battery for your remote. The remote is the only way to change the temperature on the spa. Contact a dealer for service and see about a new battery.
  15. You appear to have a flow issue on your spa. The flashing red light is "hi-limit" and it will not heat. Flashing red and green is no flow and it will not heat. Make sure your filters are clean and check for flow in the spa. If you can't see any flow, contact your dealer for service.
  16. Your spa was designed to be energy efficient and keeping the spa at one set temperature is the best way to save energy. For safety reasons you should not deviate from the spa wiring that is specified in your owner's manual. You can always contact a dealer or Watkins for assistance.
  17. Dealer need to look at the check valve between the circ pump and heater. If the valve is not operating properly the heater will get starved and go into hi limit.
  18. Have an electrician measure the pumps current draw and leakage current, then check the circuit breaker to see why it will not reset.
  19. You should have your electrician test the jet pumps for leakage current. The GFCI breakers are doing their job by tripping with too much leakage current. Always have you spa wired as shown in your owner's manual for your safety and to prevent equipment damage.
  20. That black hose is to vent the hot air off the jet pump. Since the leak stops at those jets, it should be somewhere around them. Be careful with the foam, you don't want to hurt yourself or your spa digging in the foam.
  21. The drain in the bottom is also the heater return. It could be leaking all the way back to the equipment compartment. It could be leaking in the in-foam plumbing or in the equipment compartment. Be careful doing any in-foam digs or other spa work.
  22. I think the only way to repair this is to have a service call to replace the control.
  23. Make sure the bulb will fit into the cage for the light, which a PAR should be right. You could try green, red is usually not bright enough, and yellow may look unusual in water.
  24. Sounds like your heater is getting too warm. Maybe air trapped in the heater or no/low flow from the circulation pump.
  25. The front bezel for that spa is still available as a service part from your local dealer. Call them and have them change out the bezel.
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